| Author | Message | ||
     Leeaw |
Blake, There are 3 5/16" short bolts that help hold down the lower rocker box, along with the 4 near the rockers. The one closest to the intake manifold snapped as I torqued it too much, but I was able to unscrew it before it snapped in half completely. I was screwing it back in. As for my idle problem, it is no longer. The idle adjustment screw was not hitting the little tab on the throttle cable bracket. A little adjustment and it is fixed. I have to go buy my wife some flowers for her birthday. She turned 29 today. I always liked younger women  | ||
| Leeaw |
Dumb Q. Blue or red locktite on the lower rocker box bolts? My manual has disappeared like the hair on my head.  | ||
| Blake |
Blue! | ||
| Vwolf |
Dudes just checkin in the 2M2 is running fine.I have to get a new rear shock tho the thing is leaking. see yas Vwolf | ||
| Blake |
Vwolf, Check to be aboslutely sure it is the shock leaking and not one of the oil lines/fittings in the vicinity. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Hello all, my front rocker box gasket is starting to seep, is there anything I can do to make it last a bit longer besides parking my bike? The shop says there are internal parts I can mess up doing the job myself, is this true or can the back yard mechanic do the job himself? Also -I sure get a lot of leakage from my gas tank breather, I always leave about half an inch between the fuel and that rubber gasket thingy. -Mike | ||
| Grndskpr |
which dealer is it, i just want to be sure i dont go to that one, there are some internal parts ie rocker arms pushrods think thats it but i did it in a couple of hours and i was being anal, if you have a good set of tools a little pacience a service manual that you have read its not all that hard but there are some items you will need like a cut off allen wrench to get to the allen that is under the frame, but the manual explains it all and you should judge after reading it if you are capable or not, then ask the questions you need, i did it and found it easy but i dont know you level or ability hope this helps Roger | ||
| Mikej |
Mike, There are internal parts in there that the shop can mess up too.  . Might be time to get educated and try it yourself. Takes a little bit of monkeying around to get to the parts, and you might have to modify a tool or two, and you will either have to buy a "special tool" or will have to do a work-a-round when torquing the bolts and screws back down, but apart from that it's a relatively simple job. Some tight access clearances, but all things considered it is relatively simple. And the next time your shop asks you a question like that, ask them if they are insulting your competance, or are they just trying to pressure you into being a drone with a wallet at their total mercy when it comes to repairs on your bike. There have been a few things I've had the local shop do that I could have easily done myself because I just didn't want to hassle with it, so I'm not saying don't trust the shop. But the way you worded what they told you doesn't give me much confidence in their intentions or respect towards you. Just an opinion. Buy a service manual and parts book, then decide. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Thanks all, Blake, I apologize for posting that under body and stuff, forgot where I was I guess. Body work I leave to the pros if it's more than bolting stuff on, I do maintain mine and the wife's cars and basics on the bike, just more familiare with fords than harleys- or buells if you prefer... -Mike | ||
| Littlebuggles |
So I guess I just have to replace the gasket (if I don't want to park the bike), I've read some of the archived stuff on which gaskets to get and am thrilled to have such a great source of info. Now how 'bout that leaky fuel breather line? I have got the new valve/vent thingy(?) that points up instead of the 90 degree one the bike came with, and I just couldn't figure where was the most appropriate place to ask about that...  -Mike | ||
| Harv83 |
Should valve noise(tapping) be audible at idle with a full face helmet on? My bike is a 2000 M2, with 1K miles (I bought it as a brand new left-over last month.) I had the 500 mile service done on time. The oil level is fine. The valves just seem a little loud, and I'm wondering if this is normal for a Buell or if I should take it to the shop to be checked out. | ||
| Blip01 |
Hi, I've got a small/weeping leak on the rear cylinder of my S1W from the top gasket(rockerbox cover?). My question is, in the manual it says to replace the 4 fiber seals on each of the bolts. Is this really necessary, or can they safely be reused? Thanks! | ||
| Peter |
If they don't look damaged then they can usually be reused without any problem. PPiA | ||
| Leeaw |
Blip, If you buy the gasket kit, which is about $35 for both front and rear, it comes with everything you need, including 8 fiber seals. | ||
| Blip01 |
Thanks!!! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Blip, Make sure you get the new STEEL gaskets, not the old paper version. I have reused my fiber washers 3 times with no problem. Having said that, it will be leaking when I leave work today..... Brad | ||
| Blip01 |
Go the rear rockerbox gasket done today, along with an oil change, new plugs, etc. The gasket was pretty easy overall thanks to lots of great info here! I wasn't prepared for the valve tap when I fired the bike up afterwards. Holy crap! I thought I destroyed the bike! Of course I jumped back on here and searched the archives and read about the hydraulic lifters, fired the bike back up and the valve tap went away pretty quick. I got the new HD gaskets. They are metal one-piece gaskets. Seem to work great so far. | ||
| Easyrider_Au |
I race an X1 white lightning in a series in Australia called Formula-Xtreme (streetfighter class).....my X1 is the 6th Buell to drop the front exhaust valve...it's demolished most of the mtr, a very costly repair.......Is this a common fault over there as well??......I cannot get any factory feedback here......any o you guys know a cure??? | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Before my bike left me stranded two weeks ago going to VIR (apparently a bad stator), I had removed the exhaust system to check what it looked like in there. Here's what I found:  Front Exhaust port, sorry that it's blurry, but I'm more interested in the colors (the white color particularly)  Rear Exhast port, lot's of oil and carbon gunk in this one.  Spark Plugs, Front on the right, rear on the left What's the diagnosis? | ||
| Mikej |
I'm guessing rich and cold since nobody else has answered yet. | ||
| Blake |
Easyrider_Au, I've heard of a few cases on stock bikes (Dyna, care to comment?). Most racers over here are running modified heads with high quality valves/springs/retainers. Did your retainer fail or did the valve itself break? JQ, Trying to evaluate your plugs and exhaust ports after suffering through prolonged misfiring and poor running is probably a fruitless endeavor, since much of the residue is likely due to the effects of your mal-performing stator. I'd suggest that you get her back in fighting shape, then see how she runs. Then, compression and leakdown tests followed by a dyno run with sniffer will tell you a lot about the health and state of tune of your engine.  | ||
| José_Quiñones |
Blake I wrote
These pictures were taken BEFORE the VIR trip ordeal. I just never had a chance to post them because the camera's memory card was acting funny. I will tell them to do the tests as you mentioned to see what they show. Thanks! | ||
| X1glider |
JQ, while replacing my header this past weekend, I noticed my valve stems are white like yours, something I've never seen on my Harleys. I disregarded it as a side effect of the stock ECM's leanness. Your dirty plugs seems to tell a different story. Very possible they weren't firing as often as they were supposed to. Did you check the gap as well as the typical visual inspection? If you're on the high end, you might want to set it at the low end. I used to think that wide spark gaps were better for igniting more gas. Instead, spark intensity rules. Pro race teams are setting their gaps to about .018-.022". A smaller gap's spark intensity could help burn thru the richness and help clean off the insulator. Also try to find a plug with a smaller electrode tip. Less resistance with the same output coil = hotter spark! | ||
| José_Quiñones |
great suggestions, thanks! | ||
| Blake |
JQ,  Sorry, dopy me missed your clarification about your photos being taken prior to the trip. I like platinum electrode plugs. They have the small electrode like X1Glider mentions and they last a lot longer too. What kind of fuel mileage do you typically get? If it's reasonable and you don't get pinging or knocking and the bike runs well, and your compression and leak-down test results are within acceptable ranges... I wouldn't worry about any of it. | ||
| Easyrider_Au |
Blake, thanks for your feedback.....in the series in which we compete, we're not allowed any engine mods at all.....the valves have all been broken at the retainer & they're all frt cylinder exh valves.....We raced M2's last year & they never missed a beat....we're thinking that the injection may be lean causing excessive heat to the valves etc....Another theory I've heard is to fit solid lifters to counteract the problem?? I'm underway writng a letter to the factory to see if they can be of any assistance.....it's not as though this is a one off problem over here! Cheers Mate.... | ||
| Blake |
Are you able to run the race ECM? See if you can talk to Henry Duga. Call him at +1 (262) 642-2020. Henry is the Buell racing man. A one on one over the telephone will be worth your money. If you get his machine, leave a message; he'll call you back. | ||
| X1glider |
Craig, since you are 5500 km away from Henry, try him at: hduga@buell.com. You won't have to worry about the 13 hour time diference. | ||
| Easyrider_Au |
Blake, yes we do run the race ecm & pipes etc. I will send Henry an e-mail, thanks to you & Glider for your advice. | ||
| Axtell |
Easyrider Au , Look @ the keeper groove in the valve stem and see if it has a sharp corner. Also look to see if there is a cusp left on either side of the break. Ron |
