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Archive through November 18, 2005Fcbuell30 11-18-05  03:28 pm
         

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Madsx
Posted on Friday, November 18, 2005 - 03:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Start with a rear stand if money is an issue. Think it would get you through most repairs ect...
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Daves
Posted on Friday, November 18, 2005 - 03:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree, rear stand first as you need it before you can use the front stand.
Or, just dive right in and get the pair.
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Bomber
Posted on Friday, November 18, 2005 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you can torque the sterring head bearing with the scoot on the stand (thanks dave for my pair . . . . of stands), but you won't be able to turn em side to side to test em (too much fristion on the stand to triple tree interface) -- I use a lil bottle jack to raise the tire just off the ground (with the rear stand hold up the rear (!) of the sled) -- but any way you can get the tire off the pavement without hindering the motion of the forks and trees will do the trick
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Typeone
Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i only have a rear stand too (LP) but use a floor jack to prop under exhaust can with rear on stand... works pretty well for mild front-end work. FYI.
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Rich
Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 06:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just bought a LP for ten bucks, at the farmer's market.
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Jackbequick
Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Sounds like the pit-bull stands are popular and there are other options."

This is one of the other options. It works great on the tubers, lifts at the foot pegs and is quick and easy to use. For front end work, a bottle jack from below or a lifting device from above (engine stand, ceiling hoist, etc.) will get both ends up.

Jack
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Snowhownd
Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 10:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

RE: "Pit Bull makes a forward facing rear stand. It makes it easy for one hand on the handlebar and one on the stand"

Yeah, has anyone used this one? Space is an issue for me, so a forward facing stand would interest me.
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Hkwan
Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2005 - 05:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dave,

I am wondering that the Pitbull fits the XB's if it is because of the pad adaptor? I have tried on a Pitbull with the dual adaptor (one side is the spool and other side is the, well, not pad, but a padded round stud)and it doesn't fit. Looks like it is about 1/2" too narrow.

From your pictures, it looks like the width is adjusted to the max so I am wondering if the adaptor has anyting to do with the the width.
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Metalstorm
Posted on Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 08:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the pitbull front & rear stands as well & love them. I have a 12Scg so when I lift the front I have to remove the front fender first but it's no big deal. Just four screws.
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Xbolt12
Posted on Sunday, November 20, 2005 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pit Bulls work great. The only disadvantage is that they are heavy if you are carting them to the track. But then at least you know they will never break.
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Hkwan
Posted on Monday, November 21, 2005 - 12:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

May I ask those who have the Pitbull rear stand to do a measurement for me - please measure the width of the stand from the inside of the arm to the other inside of the arm?

I want to see if it is because the stand is actually wider or just the adaptor is affecting the fitment. If just the adaptors, I might just but the pad adaptor instead of the entire stand. Thank you very much in advance.
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Daves
Posted on Monday, November 21, 2005 - 09:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I order them I specify the "wide" version.
I do not know if the the stand itself is wider but that is what I think it is.
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Mike748
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 09:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My XB on PitBull stands.

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Dago
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 10:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the pit bull rear stand sucks. If your swingarm is the slightest bit wet, the bike will slide backwards down the swingarm and fall over. I've caught mine mid fall once already and seen it slip inches on more than one occasion.

Look at the above pic and decide for yourself.

The pit bull front is great though.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dago,

I think the issue that you mention is a result of the angled swingarm and will be a problem for any non-spool type rear stand. Also please note that if/when the rear stands slides forward, it will eventually allow the rear tire to contact the ground acting as a stop to prevent the stand from sliding any further forward.

Edited to strike incorrect information. : )

(Message edited by blake on November 23, 2005)
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Dago
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No it won't Blake. Mine fell right into the wall in my garage. I have the holes in my sheetrock to prove it.

And you're right. It will be a problem for any non-spool type rear stand. That's exactly why I made the statement that my Pit Bull non-spool type rear stand sucks. I'll take more care to be more specific about the product the next time I claim something sucks. But then again, I thought we were talking about Pit Bull non-spool type rear stands.

If I would have known about this fact before I bought my Pit Bull non-spool type rear stand, I would have bought a spool type rear stand instead. Therefore, I thought it worthwhile to bring up. : )
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Fdl3
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hee...hee...
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My Pit Bull rear stands has convertible supports that work with unspooled or spooled swingarms alike. If yours does not currently have the convertible supports, you can probably get them.

That's exactly why I made the statement that my Pit Bull non-spool type rear stand sucks.

I guess I missed that statement. :/

Of course the easiest solution is to simply ensure that the bottom of your swingarm is clean and dry before using any generic non-spool type rear stand.

Another alternative would be to afix some kind of stop to the bottom of each side of the swingarm to prevent any non-spool type stand supports from sliding forward. A couple of large tie-wraps each wrapped around one side of the swing arm and tightened in the appropriate place would likely do the trick. Better might be to drill and tap and afix an nice socket-head cap screw in the appropriate spot. Easier might be to epoxy the stops in place.
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Mikej
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Better might be to drill and tap and afix an nice socket-head cap screw in the appropriate spot."

That's thing's full of oil on one side though, and it's generally not advisable to go drilling and tapping in lightweight structural components unless you're sure you're not compromising anything.
Just a thought or two.
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Daves
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 12:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That does suck Dago.
I have had them on the stands in the showroom for a week or two at a time, even with some customers climbing on and off the bike and have never had one fall?
Sorry it happened to you.
I never even thought about it before but I can see how it might happen.
I will be more careful now too.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike,

Those are very valid concerns for sure. The oil reservoir is up front, nowhere near where a screw would need to be installed. So no worries there.

Being a structural/stress analyst for some twenty years now, hopefully I've not suddenly run amuck and suggested something that will compromise a piece of primary structure. Comparing the left and right side swingarm legs, I have trouble imagining a 1/4-20 tapped hole subjecting any undue structural risk upon the left side leg of the swingarm. Worst case, crack growth could be a concern. However, the loads and stresses are so very low in the area of interest that I cannot see it. That is one beefy piece of structure.

2003-2005 XB Swingarm
2003-2005 XB Swingarm


(Message edited by blake on November 23, 2005)
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Mikej
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice picture, thanks, helps to know what's in there.
Now if I could only mount one of those easily to the M2..... I could drill and tap some holes. : )
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Henrik
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 01:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been asking for years for Buell to put threaded bosses for spools on their swingarms. Much! better way to use a swin garm stand.

Henrik
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Hkwan
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In regards to the XB sliding off rear swing arm and falling - I have had 2 near-fall experiences with the Handy Stand on the F4i.

I did some study and it looks like it is more of the weight of the bike (and its slippery swing arm) squeezing the rear stand forward instead of the bike sliding down.

I normally tie down the front brake when I use the rear stand (with front wheel on the ground) and yet, the stand still moves forward.

So this is what I do now - I put the door stop (the rubber wedge kind) right at end of the vertical member of the stand next to the wheels of the rear stand (wedge pointing rearward). That definitely helps in preventing the stand from moving. I do the same with pitbull rear stand for my other bike as well and it doesn't move.

If you look at your picture, you bike couldn't have moved in relation to a fixed point in space. If it does, you front stand would have to move along the ground backward (which is not likely due to friction and the angle of how it props up the bike) or you front stand would have tipped over.

Using two door stops might just be a easier alternative to drilling / tapping the arm.
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Tank_bueller
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake, I think you're safe on the "drilling and tapping" deal. The swingarm already has holes in or near the area in question for water drainage. I did not measure them, but they look to be about 5/16" , and too far back to use for a stop.

If the factory put holes in it, why can't we?
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Sparky
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does the Pit Bull stand have spring loaded L-pads that touch the swingarm? My Lockhart Phillips stand does and the springs exert enough side force that the bike does not move the slightest. Of course, I only have the rear stand so maybe my post doesn't apply.

Perhaps the Pit Bull L-pads could be modified to use springs?
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Madsx
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

no springs on the Pit Bulls
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Hkwan
Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2005 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why don't you guys try out the door stop idea before drilling into the swingarm?
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