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Buell Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through October 02, 2005 » Tight Torx bolts on Front Fender. « Previous Next »

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Telewoodski
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I replaced my from tire a couple of weeks ago. When I put the front fender back on I used red Lock Tight. Now I can't get the bolts back out. I stripped one, and the others are about to strip. What do you think I should do? Should I have used Anti Seize instead? Do they make a harder bolt?
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M1combat
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blue loc-tite?

None? (This is my method)

Red Loc-tite is some pretty nasty stuff when used in the wrong place : ).
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No_rice
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 07:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i had to drill the heads off mine, found a bit just a little bigger than the threaded part of the bolt. drilled down just enough to pop the head off of them. it leaves a fair amount of unthreaded bolt left to get a vicegrip on and work them loose. just popped the heads off and spread the fender enough to clear whats left of the bolts. TAKE YOUR TIME AND FREQUENT BREAKS. learned the hard way though to keep dumping water so it runs down on to the bolt and fender or the head gets hot and melts into the plastic
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Jerseyguy
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 07:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heat will soften the Red LT but that's probably not an option with a plastic fender. I'd try a soldering gun on the bolt, but honestly it's a long shot. You'll probably have to drill the head off & use vice grips like rice said. Use a sharp drill and slow speed.

I've been using Blue LT (medium strength) on the chin fairing bolts with good success.
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Gowindward
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used these on one of the chin fairing fasteners (same type) that the head stripped on mine.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=0 0952157000&subcat=Taps+%26+Dies
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Max
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 08:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Man that not good with red loctite.like jereseyguy said heat works,but plastic fender.I would drill it.Start with small bit work up size use high speed steel bit with slow speed drill.Last bit to be no larger then bolt.
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Xbdave9s
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

did you happen to try giving the bolts a good sharp tap with the torx bit and a hammer, this
sometimes loosens the loc-tite. if not it sounds like you'll need the drill.
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Jackbequick
Posted on Monday, September 26, 2005 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heat is the only thing that will make LocTite give up. Do what Jerseyguy said.

When you put those back, an old school mechanics trick for small fasteners that won't stay on and to keep nuts from falling off was to use a little Permatex Non Hardening gasket adhesive on them. That is the real dark brown stuff that never hardens up, it provides enough adhesion to keep screws from backing out but is easily overcome with a screwdriver. One little tube is a life time supply.

Jack
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Luvthemtorts
Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 01:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Worse case scneario since the hole goes all the way through just drill it out and use a longer bolt with a lockwasher and nut on the backside.
Checked my XB9R and there is plenty o' clearance.
This is part of the reason I am going for an all allen head conversion. The torx heads are too shallow and don't offer enough contact area to hold the wrench well should a fair amount of pressure be required for removal.
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Diablobrian
Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 04:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The other old school trick is to use a strand of fishing line in the hole as a sort of do it yourself nylock. Doesn't have to be heavy guage to do the trick just has to fill the gap in thread engagement.
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Telewoodski
Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow guys, thanks for all the great advice. I have about 5000 miles before I really need to take the front fender off, so I'm going to take my time. I will go back to one of the other old school ways of securing the bolts.

I was still curious, do they make a higher grade torx bolt that you can use as an upgrade?

Thanx again.
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