| Author | Message | ||
     Shawns |
I know this has been discussed in great detail over the years. I can't seem to find a reference on how to compress the spring(if you do) to replace the shim. The manual tells you to remove the follower spacer to slide the follower over. Do you compress the spring? Do you just slide the follower over? What if it is tight? | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
No need to compress the spring. You really just pop off the plastic retainer between the followers then slide them out of the way. Follow the repair manual. | ||
| Kruizen |
Shawns if it's tight rotate the engine to remove the tension. Service manual if you need a copy let me know | ||
| Shawns |
I have a copy. Thanks tho. There is only 2 intake valves that I can get a feeler in between. Now when I do this, should I go with min, max specs or somewhere in the middle. | ||
| Kruizen |
I'd go middle to loose. As they will tighten up gradually-this was the advise given to me when I did mine. | ||
| Mhpalin |
Yes the looser the better with in spec of course. This why I do my own a shop will not adjust the gap if it is in spec, so if it's at min spec it will be to tight well before the next service interval but this is just my opinion  | ||
| Shawns |
I got them mostly in the middle. A few were closer to max specs due to limited variety of shim sizes. | ||
| Stevel |
If you need extra room, just back off the cam bearing block screws and let the cams lift a bit. Be sure to retighten them when you are done. | ||
| Skntpig |
I wanted to set mine up to the loose side of the spec. You would be surprised how perfect you can get it if you measure them all and move them to get the measurement you want. I bought a few shims but mostly moved them around. Just take good notes and measure twice once they are in. | ||
| Imblasted |
I would be careful doing it that way, as the center of the shims will be worn down further than the rest of the shim. Which will cause a false reading and make the valve more loose than the actual feeler gauge measurement. Although I could be wrong, and if I am please someone correct me, but I wouldn't do that in my engine. I would just use new shims. I bought the kit from hot cams. They don't have the best increments, but I was able to do my valve adjustment with only what was in the kit. | ||
| Shawns |
I used the hot cams kit as well | ||
| Stevel |
Imblasted, You or the motor won't live long enough to wear those shims. They have been hardened to something harder than 60 Rockwell C and there is very little sliding action with the finger. Wear occurs between valve and valve seat and when it occurs, it reduces valve clearance. In that light, the loose end of the specs should be your target. Remember that valve heat is your enemy here and the valve can only shed its heat through seat contact and more contact time is better than less. Very little heat is shed through the stem, especially as the stem is only 5.5mm in diameter. | ||
| Oldog |
Stevel I found while changing mine that the center where the shim contacts the tip of the valve stem does indent slightly, so blasted's concern is justified. You are other wise correct as to wear of the valve train. BTW great idea on loosening the cam bearing bolts to get more clearance if needed. of course we know that manufactuers allways get their parts exactly to spec, especially those tiny parts made in large quantities like valve shims.  Blasted I would expect that as long as the tip of the valve stem is setting in the center of the depression then the feeler gauge measurement is good for clearance. but shims are cheap and plentiful so like you I would change them. (Message edited by oldog on November 03, 2015) | ||
| Zac4mac |
Oldog - the seat wear is measurable in the .001" range, while shim wear is an order of magnitude less. Steve is right as the shim wear is negligible. You can see where the shim wear is b/c it wipes off the laser marks but 20k mile wear is on the order of .0001-.0002". FYI Z | ||
| Oldog |
Zac: I set My valve clearances at 10K mile intervals. at the last one I had the shims out and examined them closely I can feel the indent from the valve tip, in the bottom of the shim My micrometer anvils are too large to get into the mark and measure the thickness of the shim at that point. But I could feel it with my nail which leads me to beleive that .0005 ~ .001 wear are possible, I would expect the outer surfaces of the shim to be HARD as He11 but the inner areas to be softer or the shims would be brittle Its more than remotely possible that the shims are a bit soft...... None the less I agree that the primary wear is valve and seat wear in the engine, not the shims. I believe that the tapping on the valve tip causes the dimple in the center If I think of it next interval I have thought of a way using what I have to measure that dimple's depth. (Message edited by oldog on November 04, 2015) | ||
| Buellhusker |
Olddog Just use a ball bearing between the mic anvil and the shim side with the dimple. | ||
| Oldog |
What I had in mind, motor is together and my tuber is apart. so its not happening for at least 9k miles =) |
