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Jc1125r
Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 07:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My son and I just recently acquired a 2009 1125r with barker exhaust and EBR racing ECM. I currently have this great machine in my garage in Michigan as my son is relocating to the area in the very near future. SO I thought that I should get to know this bike as I will be doing the lions share of the wrenching. SO....

What would you list as the top things that I should know, look out for, do to, etc., as a new owner of a 2009 Buell 1125r?
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Jc1125r
Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 07:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, I should state that I have already laid the stator in a bed of high temp silicone to avoid the grounding to the case.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 08:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:


Jc1125r

Oh, I should state that I have already laid the stator in a bed of high temp silicone to avoid the grounding to the case.




First time I've heard of anyone doing that. What was the rationale behind it?
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Sdw
Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 08:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it's a black frame model make sure the rotor has been modified/ drilled.

Bar end mirrors with running lights to indicator modification.

Foot pegs with a 1" drop is comfy and less cramped.

Lower fairing make it look better
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 11:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

More than likely, bedding the stator in silicone will just accelerate its demise.
09+ stators die from heat not grounding out.
The RTV will keep heat in the stator.

EBR came out with a rotor that is EDM'd to provide a spray of oil onto the stator to cool it.
It is necessary to run the higher output alternator in the 09+ bikes.

Z
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Saturday, October 03, 2015 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

there is a "link" on the 1125r opening page...just above the "BadWeb classified" link...with a few threads for new owners...might want to read them to get an idea as to what you're getting yourself into ...
since you have already started to modify the charging system...you will note there is a separate sub forum for charging issues on the main 1125r forum...may want to review some of those posts to get an idea as to the charging system challenges you need to address. (rotor hole for cooling stator, possible rewound stator, new voltage regulator,http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/766502.html?1436764449
possible new battery, removal of HD factory "2 phase" relay harness fix (if it's installed)... after the cooling mod is complete)
The "grounds" are marginal/lacking in the wire harness, may want to run additional wire(s) to insure the electricity knows where to go ( I ran a #4 gauge starter cable as an extension from the ground near the swing arm pivot directly to the starter mount ( scroll down for pix) http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/674577.html)...the ignition switch likes to self destruct...add some wire(s) to the lead to the main harness so it can flex without tearing the contacts out of the switch...
Check your wheel bearings, add a front brake M/C off a late model crotch rocket to help the front brake performance and "feel".
Tires...http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/766358.html?1438135578
Last but not least...your slave cylinder on the right side of the bike ( clutch cover) will leak... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/695063.html?1335273107

you can try and buy a fix from HD (P/N X2086.1AM) or a really nice one from Oberon
http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Clutc h_Slave_Cylinders_CSC.html

since the demise of EBR...you may need to go to these guys for parts:
https://www.americansportbike.com/
http://www.5-0dro.com/
http://www.twinmotorcycles.com/

Note "twin motorcycles" is in Europe

get that charge card ready ...you guys have looong winters up there in Michigan!
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Jc1125r
Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2015 - 06:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the input. I look forward to getting to know this bike and have started reading the links. I figure that over the coming winter I will have the time to address the noted issues.
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Jc1125r
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 07:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As I am getting to know this bike and doing a lot of reading and research in the posts, I have started compiling my parts for the winter work in the garage season.

I have obtained the Oberon Clutch Slave cylinder as the original was leaking.

But the main reason for my post today is about the oiling modification to the rotor. Having purchased this bike used, I do not know if the rotor has the oiling hole modification. The previous owner had put high temp silicon between the stator & cover (as mentioned in my second post)but I do not know about the oiling hole mod.

With the cover removed can I tell if the rotor has been modified? If so, what am I looking for?
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Panshovevo
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 08:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hopefully others with more experience will chime in here, but I don't believe the oil hole can be seen without removing the rotor.
Don't quote me on that, it's early yet, and I'm a little foggy from back meds.
I haven't pulled one yet.

Has anyone mentioned the importance of acquiring the factory Service, Parts, and Electrical Diagnostic manuals?

(Message edited by Panshovevo on November 02, 2015)
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Jc1125r
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 08:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for your replay. Yes, I have copies of the Service, Parts & Electrical Diagnostic Manuals.
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pictures...go here:
http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 665658.html

you may be able to "see" the tiny hole without taking off the rotor...it "exits" in the small radius just "behind" the flanged rotor nut...hope this helps

NOTE! - please practice extreme caution when installing the rotor cover back on...use some dowels ( cut the heads off some 6mm bolts ( about 50mm long)...and use light grease on the end of the crank/inside the stator cover where the crank will "ride" in the cover...another member did not... and the crank has seized in his cover...not fun

(Message edited by nuts4mc on November 02, 2015)
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Jc1125r
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is the rotor nut a right hand thread?

I ask as I may need to resource a torque wrench and I know that the click type torque wrench that I have does not work with left hand torque (also it only goes to 150 ft lb, so I need to resource on to 300 ft lb).
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2015 - 01:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

righty,tighty...lefty lucy...yes RH thread

you may want to read some of this thread as well as those referenced in it...
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/690448.html?1348359245

special loctite (red 272) and a crank holding tool is reqd.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2015 - 08:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another thing to keep in mind when handling the rotor.
A piece of µ-metal covers the magnets and the back/inside edge is VERY sharp.

Z

(Message edited by zac4mac on November 04, 2015)
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