| Author | Message | ||
     Advanguard |
youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhJQaa26FZk Removing the stock battery and replacing with lifepo4 smaller lighter battery. I have not long term tested this, just installed and ran for day. Capacitor mod and relocation to swing arm coming soon. Ensure battery charging system is working good, and within normal operating range. Stock battery: 11.4 lbs Life battery: 1.23 lbs ZIPPY Flightmax 4200mAh 4S2P 30C LiFePo4 Pack http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/st... Spec: Capacity: 4200mAh Voltage: 4S2P / 13.2v Discharge: 30C Constant / 40C Burst Max Charge Rate: 2C Weight: 558g (including wire, plug & case) Dimensions: 140mm x 45mm x 46mm Balance Plug: JST-XH Discharge Plug: 5.5mm Bullet-Connector MIN 10V Max 14.4V 170°F for greater than 1 hour 6 gauge eyelets solder with propane plumbers torch zip ties electrical tape | ||
| Stirz007 |
Easiest way to knock 10 lbs off the weight, other than a diet. Did mine about 3 years ago - one thing, be sure and get 12 cell batteries as 8's won't turn it over when the weather gets colder.  | ||
| Matteson |
Is the battery swap a plug and play operation. | ||
| Advanguard |
Stirz, your mod looks alot better, like the quick disconnect. starter solenoid right next to it. Matt: buy the battery, lop off the ends, crimp/solder 6 gauge eyelets, I rerouted the stock cables a little to look better. Update: first day out,night before 13.2v lost 1/2 volt overnight 12.7v, started just fine in morning 60F. Rode to work 20 min, every break checked volts, lost .25v in 8 hours, started just fine, ran errands, stop shut down start, run across the parking lot, stop, start, rode home 20 min. before shutting down engine reading 13.5v, turn off engine, lights on, fan running 12.9, 12.7 in one minute, turned off ignition, fan still on 13.0V, fan shut off 13.2V. All seems good and running. | ||
| Stirz007 |
I'd add one thing I didn't know. Some lightweight batteries (like the one shown in last post, since replaced), do not do well if left connected or on a tender over the winter (5 months for me) - It'll kill them. Unplug or disconnect the battery over the winter - it'll keep its charge fine. Mattson - some are, some aren't. In any case, you'll need to modify the battery tray and/or hold-down to mount it. I made a tray and riveted it on, then just used padding and zip-ties so secure the battery, but it's a race bike and that was good enough. Some batteries have a quick disconnect, some have leads attached, and some have terminal posts, so you have to adapt your main (6/0) leads to suit. Case in Point: Below is battery in my XB - I could not get one with side terminals in the time frame I needed it, so had to make modifications to get the stock harness to mount up. You can get sheets of 1/4" foam at crafts stores and make a pretty good battery box. I used spray adhesive to stack the sheets into a slab about as thick as the battery, cut out the center to fit the battery and outside to fit the area it would mount. A couple more uncut sheets underneath and I had an insulated custom battery box.  | ||
| Advanguard |
Im soon going to put capacitors in the swing arm and get rid of the battery all together, still in testing | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
I got this post off another site....FYI... "Simply put a lithium iron phosphate battery (commonly called LiPo, or LiFePo) is made up of multiple smaller cells inside the case wired up to provide the "12v". Each of the cells is usually 3.7v and in a4 cell they are in series, in a 6 cell they are usually a 4S2P (4 in series 2 parallel) and so on. These cells are susceptible to exploding if they are overcharged. If we are charging several individual cells that are wired in series how do we ensure that we are charging all of the cells equally, and not overcharging an individual cell. Further, we know that there are realistically only so many times you can discharge and recharge a cell. How do we ensure that the cells are being drained equally so that we do not discharge and individual cell more quickly than the rest. (Think an SSD drive in a computer and write wear) Ok, so to be so long winded, but I wanted people to understand why the balancer in the EarthX and a couple other of the better lithium motorcycle batteries is valuable. FYI do you know why shorai developed their own charger? It is a balancing charger. (It is the same type of charger we have been using in the RC world for years) EarthX is allowing you to use your existing battery tender." | ||
| Stirz007 |
Had a guy sharing a pit with me put a car charger on one - blowed right up, sounded like a .22 going off and took a chunk out of the battery case. Lucky he didn't burn his and my bike to the ground. | ||
| Buellfirebolt31 |
Definitely need to balance the cells. I've had these batteries blow up from charging them several times before balancing the cells, and it ain't purdy. | ||
| Advanguard |
I balance charge it once a week to ensure the cells are staying balanced. I have notice my bike has a bad parasite discharge when everything is off, killed a battery down 3 volts over the weekend sitting, installing a quick disconnect soon. | ||
| Oldog |
Im soon going to put capacitors in the swing arm and get rid of the battery all together, still in testing Good luck with that project, I will be shocked if you succeed. its an electronic fuel injection system the engine will have to spin to generate electricity for the ecm/fuel pump so I don't see that working too well. possibly workable for a race bike. } | ||
| Froggy |
Oldog, there is a guy with an XB running capacitors | ||
| Oldog |
How does he start the engine Froggy? Push start? once the motor is turning the caps are being charged and there is power for the ecm, coils, fuel pump, sensors, and injectors... Now if a battery is part of this it makes more sens to me. is the cap bike carburated(sp) please post link. | ||
| Nikoff90 |
I have been tempted to try the 2 Antigravity 4 cell batteries i have sitting in the shop as it should give 12 ah and 240 cca. I pulled them off my XR650l when I sold it. What are the specs on the stock battery? | ||
| Froggy |
Oldog - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wFuMuAAwOOQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3mE442Fuuw | ||
| Dennis_c |
I think they are 200 cca I would not bet on it. | ||
| Advanguard |
the cap install, I will start with 350F caps 6 in series, this will be an overkill, but I want to ensure a good endurance test. I have seen these start 4cycl and 6 cyl car engines. The concept of caps is small bucket of water but unlimited flow of that small bucket, I just need the bike to start, after that the stator picks up, caps stabilize heavy demands. Im estimating under 500grams, but even less after I start testing smaller caps. Update on bat mod, it is Lifepo4 battery, the only way to burn is a start battery charger with 10amps on a near dead battery. 2 extremes. Yes run these with race bike without stator charge, hit the pits and try to use the same battery in 10 min wont happen, I would say safely 20 min with balance charger would get you 90% charge. Swap batteries at that kind of situation. Another way to burn them is to drive a nail through it. Charging at a very easy rate .5 to 1 amp, cells will balance, try to force it in you will get cell imbalances. Start with a charged battery the bike will never send a cell imbalanced, once a week I do a balance charge just for over safety, but they all seem to stay withing .02 volts of each other. I would recomend cycling burn in to ensure you didnt get a defected battery cell. I have a couple of PCM's in the mail to resolve all these common user abuse issues, soon to go to testing. |
