G oog le Buell 1125R Forum | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through March 11, 2014 » ENGINE NOISE....JUST STARTED...HELP PLEASE « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Moorev2
Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

HELP! Here is a video I uploaded to youtube...sounds horrible :-(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QuIn6MRz2w&feature =youtu.be

I have searched some of the threads here and I am hoping that this is a loose stator nut but I am not sure....if you have heard this sort of noise before and know of a solution please let me know, thank you for your assistance!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Tbowdre
Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TURN IT OFF TURN IT OFF!!! whew.

So thats a pretty gnarly sound. It could defintiely be the "stator" nut which is actually the rotor nut.

dump your oil, check the oil screen, pull the ignition cover, remove the nut, clean, lock tight and torque to 300ft pounds

probably go to go
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Buellmojo
Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Could be the rotor nut?

Mine made a similar noise, then the engine came apart.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Pmjolly
Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't start it again until I found the damage that has occurred. Start with the easy items like the rotor nut. The blue frame says it's an '08. My '08 had the incorrect thread locker, so I assume it was incorrect on the torque too. I know it was much easier to unscrew the rotor nut than it was to torque it to spec. I cleaned it all up and torqued it to the revised specs with revised thread locker.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 12:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Something is loose that shouldn't be.
08s had too low torque and thread locker strength.
Pretty sure that's the rotor nut...

The green is only for sprag bolts, Red 272 for the rotor nut.
Tighten to 250# then back off 720 degrees(2 turns) then tighten to 295 ft-lb.

<edit> I also have an 08... I worried a lot until I finally checked mine. All was good and tight still.
I feel a lot better knowing it's torqued and locked right tho...

Z

(Message edited by zac4mac on January 22, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Moorev2
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 08:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you for the responses, I will dig into this (and not start it again) and see what I can find starting with the nut first.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Pgh_biker
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am curious, can you tell me how many miles are on your bike? Guessing you haven't had any major problems until now?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nillaice
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

there is another nut on teh clutch side of teh crank shaft that can have devastating effects if it loosens.
but the rotor nut is less work, and a more commonly documented issue.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know about the clutch side being less work... I think it's quite a bit easier, actually!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nillaice
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 09:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oh?
well, will you bleed my clutch for me? cuz i apparently suck at it : (
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 09:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just be persistent Matt.
The rotor job I did with a race spring replace took at least a thousand squeezes before the clutch STARTED to move.
I was getting worried... and tired.

Z
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Matteson
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 10:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, I have an 08 and I am curious if I should open it up and tighten the nut too. I don't have that noise and don't want it. Sorry to hear of your luck bro.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Cataract2
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 06:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I've 39,800 miles on my 08 1125R with no issues in regards to that nut. So being I've gone this long I will say it's not coming off.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Matteson
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 06:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya, I've got 30,000. I'll leave it alone.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jdugger
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 08:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, when you remove the clutch cover you do not need to remove the slave cyl.

Ignore the service manual on that one!

What I do is put an internal retaining ring into the slave cyl and then remove the spherical nut. This keeps the slave from popping apart, and eliminates the need to re-bleed the clutch after service.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Moorev2
Posted on Tuesday, April 15, 2014 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, I am providing a bit of an update here and some background. About a year and a half ago I found a cam looking like this \imagelink http://imgur.com/VxcW0ww. I fixed that and then this issue came around. I dug into my engine and found the the rear exhaust valves had been kissing the piston. I say kissing because there was no real damage and I could hardly feel the impact site with my thumbnail. \imagelink http://imgur.com/fr93mzb It was running good one day, tried starting it (to no success) when it was only 5 degrees out (bonehead move on my part I think) and somehow my timing chain slipped. I found no discernible damage to the chain, crank or gear on the cam. I noticed the cam drive gear is slotted but it does not appear to have moved...I dunno? During my investigation I found a not so healthy looking front wrist pin and piston. \imagelink http://imgur.com/mpfb7lf \imagelink http://imgur.com/pTVEO3r I replaced the front piston (used) and both front and rear wrist pins just to be on safe side although the rear did not look bad really. With the help of Sprintst and his cam locking tool I got it all put back together and now she is running like a champ so far (take knee and bow head), I can only hope at this point that she stays that way. I also switched to a 10W-50 Oil, we shall see how that works out. \imagelink http://imgur.com/rewg3KC
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration