| Author | Message | ||
     Matteson |
So I am not clear if I should unhook the harness stuff under the key. When I lift the frame its getting caught in the upper left area under the frame. What are the vss connectors that the manual is referring too. Im taking a minute because I dont want to start cutting zip ties that I don't need to cut. Any guidance at this point would be appreciated. | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
Once you have the front fairing, pods and "k" brackets off. In the front you will see the wiring harness that connects the key, lights and front turn signals and wires for the clutch and brakes. You will have to cut zip ties there to separate the harness there | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
VSS is the vehicle speed sensor. It's on the right hand side on top towards the rear of the clutch behind the cover that you removed to reach the rear frame mount bolt. I'm assuming you already disconnected all connectors and removed the tail section to make it easer to remove the frame from the engine and guide the wires and fuse boxes thru the frames as it's removed. | ||
| Matteson |
Ya I unplugged all that stuff and fed the sub frame through with the helping hand of my buddy. Pulled the valve cover in the front and cleaned it real well with some carb cleaner and cleaned the head mating surface too before I reassembled it again. I guess I didn't get them as clean as I needed too on the recent valve job I did because I noticed some seepage. I gotta order a fastener for the rear valve cover since I snapped one off in there. It was seeping too. I probably didn't get it as clean as I should. | ||
| Jcjohnson33 |
With those gaskets it's best to remove them from the cover and clean out the groove and wipe the gasket just don't pull real hard as too not stretch it out or break it. Also clean the mateing surface real good reinstall the cover torque is very important here because if you over tighten it, it will cause the gasket to over compress between the bolts and the extra rubber has to go some where and it'll lift up between the bolts leaving small gaps that will allow oil to seep out when pressure builds up in there. The torque is not very high on those bolts and it'll seem like its loose but follow the torque specs. | ||
| Matteson |
I don't have an inch pound torque wrench. I did clean the groove out this time real well though. | ||
| Matteson |
So 77inch lbs comes out to be 6.4 ft lbs. Why didn't they just say that? | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
The manual stated the spec in in-lbs because most torque wrenches that are accurate under a certain tightness (10 ft-lbs or so) are usually calibrated in in-lbs. All torque wrenches have a margin of error. Being + or - a couple ft-lbs doesn't matter when you're torquing something to 100 ft-lbs, but that could easily be the difference between stripped or not if your wrench gave you 9 ft-lbs when you set it to 6. Or the difference between firmly attached and too loose, if your torque wrench reads high. (The torque wrench that you use on your car's lug nuts, for example, won't be accurate to 6.4 ft-lbs.) | ||
| Sparky |
I should comment here re torquing smaller bolts. Clean residual oil from the threads with brake cleaner spray or equivalent, especially if using Amsoil or other high quality oils. I've stripped 1/4-20 threads in aluminum parts while torquing to the upper spec of 10-13 ft/lbs with oily threads. YMMV. | ||
| Matteson |
Got her torqued down and got the frame back on with the help of a friend. 6.4 lbs really doesn't feel like enough. But what do I know. My friend, a vintage rider was shocked and was thinking we should go just a little tighter. I had to say no. | ||
| Matteson |
http://vintage-riders.com/thread/1506/leaveHere's me in the shop last night. | ||
| Rodrob |
Do not over torque the valve cover bolts. The inserts in the cam brackets are easy to crack. | ||
| Matteson |
I hope that isn't knowledge from a first hand experience Rob. |
