| Author | Message | ||
     Jdugger |
Well, I don't know everything about these bikes... As I was coming in from a teaching session today I noticed my bike was absolutely pissing water out of what looks like to be a machined hole in the water pump. Nearly filled the belly pan and I had to miss out on taking a fellow bueller out for some track time... sigh. A race buddy said "yea, that's a weep hole so you know when your pump has died" The machined hole I'm talking about is behind the rear header on the water pump. Thoughts on this? What do I need to order to replace this? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Jim - Pretty sure it's just the water pump shaft seal. You have to pull a couple of the clutch side covers. More a time issue than $$. Buena suerte Z | ||
| Jdugger |
Looks like I'm dropping the rear header to get to it? And a case cover? Yea, all day project for sure... sigh. | ||
| Gtfour |
I noticed coolant stains on mine the other day right by the weep hole. What exactly needs to be ordered to fix the leak, is it just a seal or does the pump need to be replaced? Also is this a part I need to get from the dealer or does someone else sell the seals needed? | ||
| Zac4mac |
I took a pic of a motor opened up for a water pump seal...  The bump above "Shim" is the water pump. "Shim" is where I found the shim I dropped on the 2nd valve check/adjust. If I had hit the "Start" button, I'd have destroyed my motor... Z <edit> Gtfour - a small weep is fairly normal. If you have to add coolant every week or 2, replace the seal. If you have to add a cup every 6 months... add a cup. (Message edited by zac4mac on July 21, 2013) | ||
| Gtfour |
Thanks, ill keep a eye on it. Was planing on doing the 12k service this winter, figure that would be a good time to fix it as long as its not leaking too much. Do you have to pull the side cover off to replace the seal? Other than replacing the slave I haven't had to fix anything yet. | ||
| Jdugger |
Zac, you still sell parts? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Jim - no. Now I work at NRHS porting/polishing H-D & Buell heads. If an 1125 rolls in I get to wrench on it. Bonneville is a month away, so I won't get any time off for a while. Z | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I popped my pump last year at Road America. I swapped over to the 2010 style water pump and cover, I was advised that in a race scenario this would be the better option. | ||
| Sportster_mann |
Fitting the latest parts may not permanently cure the problem. The water pump of my 2010 CR still weeps occasionally ... | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Weeping and pouring out water are two very different scenarios. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
If it's like a car, the weep hole is so you know when your seal is shot. You see the leak and can remediate before it takes a dump. | ||
| Jdugger |
Mine went from dry and fine to shitting itself! | ||
| Jdugger |
Update: Apparently the 2010 water pump assembly is best for those doing a lot of track days or high RPM. It includes pressurized oil on the seal, to increase reliability. | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
It's not too bad of a job to do... You will have to take that entire side cover off to get the seal in/out but it's not that bad. The impeller is threaded onto the shaft and it has two small holes in the front to fit a tool into like a snap ring plier... It was really freeking tight on mine! | ||
| Pmjolly |
Jim, if you need or want an extra set of hands to change that seal, do it on a weekend, and I would be glad to help. I'd like to get into one without taking mine apart for no reason. Haha. I especially want to help if you are going to lift the frame off the engine. I rotated mine out for my valve adjustment. I wanna see if it is easier lifting the frame. | ||
| Jdugger |
Pat I'm thinking I will dig into this job on Saturday the 3rd. You are more than welcome to come hang out, drink beer, sweat and wrench. I'll put something tasty on the Big Green Egg for us, too. I don't think I will lift the frame -- this job will be putting the bike up on jack stands under the rigid pegs, pulling the swing arm (need to inspect that, anyway), rear header, and then it's a pretty simple job. And oil change is involved, too, but that's pretty simple. I do those crazy-often. I just did one two track days ago on this bike, but the oil was pretty ugly and I ran it pretty hard teaching (was teaching some aspiring racers), so it won't hurt... | ||
| Gtfour |
So what exactly is need to fix the leak? Just a water pump seal or are there more seals needed to replace, is the side cover just silicone? Sorry, haven't tore apart a helicon yet and would like to collect all the parts so i can fix it all in one night...And is Harley the only place to buy the seals/ parts?? | ||
| Jdugger |
I'll let you know when it gets here. It's a 2010 water pump assembly and seals. | ||
| Oldog |
Does the updated water pump replace the outer cover? | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Yes, the 2010 setup is an all new outer engine cover and pump. JD - As a note, there currently is a crankcase vent line that starts back by the oil fill, that will not be present on the new cover, and you will need to plug the fitting on the side of the rear cylinder. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
BTW, the job isn't that bad, just take your time ensuring that the gears are timed correctly and I would think it's pretty hard to screw up. | ||
| Pmjolly |
@ Jdugger. What sort of beer do you drink? I'll bring a cooler full. I have quality tools. I bet you have everything you need, but I can bring items if needed. What time are you planning on starting? | ||
| Jdugger |
I was thinking I'd start relatively early on Saturday morning while it's still cool-ish. I have some other work to do on the Orange Monster the night before, so I'll probably stay out there. I managed to pretty much drag *though* my fairings again -- this time on *both* sides -- so I have a lot of layup to do again. I think I have all the tooling I need -- I'll know tonight when the parts come in an I take a look. As for beer -- I usually drink a lite, low-alcohol beer while working on the bikes. They suck, I know, but it's better than getting completely smashed and dehydrated by noon  Something like a Shiner blonde light? You like thick bone-in pork chops? I do mine with a dry rub, pecan smoke, and then served with a side of drawn butter. Killer. | ||
| Jdugger |
Got the part in.. it's basically the engine case cover already assembled! This looks like it will be a really easy job. | ||
| Kruizen |
Can you post up the part number you orderd. | ||
| Jdugger |
I'm not sure, actually. My "parts guy" got it for me. Let me check into it. | ||
| Pmjolly |
Not a bad project. Just takes time. It's a one day project. Be sure you time everything properly. The motor needs to be TDC on compression of the front cylinder to time it correctly. We put the crank locking tool in place to keep it from moving.The pump is counterweighted on one side. I imagine things could get ugly if not timed right. You turn the pump's gear to the right spot, then insert a bolt or pin, whatever fits, into a small hole on the outside of the water pump cover. It keeps the gear from turning out of alignment as you put the cover on. Jim, thanks for letting me help. I enjoy wrenching on the bikes. I now have no worries if mine goes out. | ||
| Jdugger |
It's a really big job, IMHO -- as large as a valve service, I think. I made a couple of mistakes getting to the pump -- thinking I could depend on the rigid pegs to support the bike, mostly. You can't. You need to have the motor on a motor stand or plan on rotating it. I took the approach of motor-on-stand, swing arm remove. Took us about 8 hours total. As Pat mentions, the timing is tricky, and it's not well documented in the service manual. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
What was your solution to the vent tube? | ||
| Jdugger |
I left it in place and plugged it with a 5/16ths aluminum bolt and nyloc nut on crush washers through the banjo at the clutch cover. |
