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Dktechguy112
| | Posted on Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 11:34 am: | 
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It sucks that its illegal to stamp a frame. I understand why they make it illegal, so people can't re-vin stolen bikes. But it really screws guys like us that just want to put our vin on a repaired bike. |
Stirz007
| | Posted on Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 11:51 am: |
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Dk
I have done a couple of special construction bikes and to re-VIN a frame legally isn't very difficult or expensive - it just takes a little effort. Keep all your receipts and documentation (including original bike frame info). Take it to the DMV (sometimes you have to bring the bike, too, but here in UT you don't). The DMV will usually issue a VIN plate for the new frame/bike. A licensed shop will have to mount the plate (two rivets - so be sure they mount on the steering head) for you and sign off on original inspection. Then you're good to go.
Illegal alteration of a VIN is a federal offense, punishable by up to 5 years in the tank. Just sayin... |
Dktechguy112
| | Posted on Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 12:22 pm: |
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on the front end, I have to pull out the triple trees before the front end comes off, right? I have a CR, i think the front end is diff then the R.
That is a nice bike, you did a great job, it doesn't even look like a kawasaki. |
Usanigel
| | Posted on Sunday, June 20, 2010 - 02:52 pm: |
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Only thing I would add is take lots of pictures as you do this to remind you if needed. |
Ratsmc
| | Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 02:05 am: |
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This sounds like a lot of work to save a little work.
Just buy the service manual and follow that. There you have all the instructions, the order in which to do them and all of the tools you will need.
The only thing you are preventing from the plan you have is separating the swingarm from the motor. How much time will that really take.
RTFM. |
Dktechguy112
| | Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 02:13 am: |
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here are some pics as promised. I only got to work on it a couple of hours today. My parents are moving and that has been taking up a lot of my time lately.
I got the sub frame pretty much stripped down. Tomorrow i would like to get the exhaust off, take off the subframe, then remove the rear shock and the front end.
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Dktechguy112
| | Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 02:19 am: |
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I tried to jack the bike up with the exhaust on, and it doesn't like to be jacked up. It sways from side to side because the bottom of the exhaust is rounded. Should i build a stand out of 2x4's to hold it, or should i remove the exhaust?
(Message edited by dktechguy112 on June 21, 2010) |
Stirz007
| | Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 09:52 am: |
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Dk
Pull the can - it will make supporting the motor much more stable and will prevent damage to the can. Use blocking under the motor (2x4)
I'd recommend supporting your rear wheel. If you don't have a rear stand, you can use a couple of milk crates (one on either side) with a piece of round bar or pipe through the rear axle. Support the ends of the bar on the crates - don't rely on the side stand.. This will also keep the bike vertical, making it easier to drop the motor.
I would also throw a couple of straps over an overhead rafter if you can as a back-up and to allow you to use them to suspend/lift the frame once you get motor loose. You do not need to remove swingarm from motor. You should back off on belt tension per manual before you try to remove idle pulley, etc.
JM |
Dktechguy112
| | Posted on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 05:07 pm: |
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Ratsmc,
I have the service manual, electrical diagnostics manual and the parts manual.
The service manual does not state that the swingarm needs to be removed to change the frame. The swingarm mounts to the engine, not the frame.
I am willing to do all the work i need to, i just want to do the swap the most efficient way possible, and i just want to get some advice from those that have taken the frame off before. |
Chrisrogers3
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 11:31 pm: |
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Ive completely stripped down many Buells to powdercoat them and replace frames and engines and so on and so forth.
With the 1125 the quickest way (I pull a frame in under 2 hours now).
Leave the dang exhaust on there and notch out some blocks to fit the contour of the exhaust (if it is the stock exhaust). Run straps around the engine (NOT around the subframe or frame).
Also dont remove the swingarm or rear wheel or anything else back there.
After you have pulled the front end and unbolted the pods from the frame, pull the airbox asembly and unbolt the rest of the frame.
Then here is where the time saver comes into play unbolt the subframe, IIRC you have to remove the rear brake line, of course pull the battery, undertail and lights. Remove all wires that DONT pass through the topside of the frame. After it is free, stand the subframe on end in the hole in the center of the frame. Then pull the frame straight up and allow the subframe to pass right through that hole in the frame.
I promise you it works and it will save you a lot of time. Obviously I gave you the real quick down and dirty lesson. There are other things you need to do i.e. disconnect fuel pump, drain fuel (helpful but not required), the grounding wires on the frame etc etc
My most recent project. Here is what I started with.....
Here is what I now have after the fact.....
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Dktechguy112
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 12:18 am: |
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chrisrogers3,
thank you! This is what i have been waiting for. Some one that has done this before. And let me say dang! You did a heck of a job fixing that bike, looking at the before pics i would have thought that bike was totaled.
A few questions for you.
When you say strap down the engine, where do you strap it down?
When you pull the front end, do you undo the pinch bolts on one of the triple trees and then pull the triple tree down the forks to get the front end off?
Also, you leave the pods attached to the engine? you just unbolt them from the frame?
And the advice to drop the subframe through the frame is genius. Thank you so much!
(Message edited by dktechguy112 on June 23, 2010) |
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