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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through May 12, 2016 » Clutch issue I guess in Need of HELP « Previous Next »

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Allanflstfi
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I took the bike out and heard some ticking that was loud and a clutch input message came across screen but on my way back after a down shift bike was jerky and cut off. Looks like a small bit of weep coming from slave. Do I just replace slave or is there another issue under lying. And engine won't try to turn over. Any input would be nice
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Allanflstfi
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

P1154 is code
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 01:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

engine won't turn over:
a) how old is the battery?
b) what is it's state of charge
c) the bike pulls a lot out of the battery on start up
d) you're aware of the parasitic drain ( on 2008 models) of the battery?...got to use the kill switch to turn off the constant drain from the theft/alarm system.
e) take the battery to an auto parts store and have it "load tested"
f) change to a new battery or charge the battery over night...needs about 13-13.5 volts under NO LOAD to turn over an engine and start it successfully

Weepy clutch:
a) youtube is your friend
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks
b) HD replacement p/n for the slave cylinder is X2086.1AM
(New Castle HD shows stock at $187ea
https://shop.newcastlehd.com/catalog/parts/harley- davidson?sku=X2086.1AM)
c) or you can go with an Oberon unit ( made in England about $250US)
http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Buell _Clutch_Slave_Cylinders.html

P1154= check your wiring and switch actuation under the clutch lever perch...the code is reporting the signal is "low" (missing not seeing the clutch lever action or signal)
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Allanflstfi
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 01:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Battery is brand new and fine I think clutch is causing engine to be locked up??? Not sure if anyone has had this issue before
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

is the tranny in Neutral? ...can you easily roll the bike back and forth?
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Allanflstfi
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes for both
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Allanflstfi
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mg clutch state stays at 1 also
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Trouble shooting over the internet ain't easy...take my info with a grain of salt ( think before you act on my advice)
a) I hope you are aware of the issue of the Wrong grade of lock-tite was used on some rotor nuts (on the shifter side of the bike, under the "flywheel/rotor" cover) on 2008 units...upon down shifting the nut could have come loose and the rotor is jammed against the stator ( the rotor has some very powerful magnets...it is NOT a press fit on the crank like Jap bikes...). you could investigate the issue by removing the "plug" from the left hand side cover and put a socket wrench on the rotor nut to see if it is loose (try CCW direction first) if it is loose you won't be turning over the engine and the nut should spin with a small amount of resistance.
b) If the nut is tight and you can spin the motor...well something may be wrong with the starter or it's electrical circuit..check for a blown fuse or a loose connection to the starter relay.
c)another tell tale sign of something wrong internally is to drain the oil and look for metal/plastic residue...if you see some you must remove the rotor side cover ( use the google search at the top of this page and google "dowel pins" it may give you some results with some tricks and pictures to help R&R that cover...it's not easy as the rotor's magnets pull on the stator which is attached to the side cover. ( the charging system is "inside out" that is the stator fits inside the rotor and the magnets are attached to the inside of a rotor that is shaped like a "cup/ or bell"
d) if the oil looks clean and the engine can be manually turned over you can remove the clutch cover without draining the engine oil, but you must remove the slave cylinder and the hydraulic fluid first. The clutches are pretty robust on this engine ( except for the clutch plates, which glaze over and slip in time). the removal of the clutch cover and plates is pretty straight forward ...pay attention when you remove the rubber diaphragm and it's "washers", before you finally get to the clutch itself...hope this helps... good luck

just saw your post about the clutch state...the "logic" in the bikes starting system my not let it start without the clutch lever pulled in...take the lever off and push on the switch - the state should change...the plunger is pretty long but made of plastic...possibly it broke off and that's your problem...good luck

(Message edited by nuts4mc on March 27, 2016)
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Allanflstfi
Posted on Sunday, March 27, 2016 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you I will look into these things when I get to my garage
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