| Author | Message | ||
     Bratmanrider |
I just finished a new set of risers. My old ones I made didn't allow the levers to be rotated forward enough making it awkward while riding. My brake and clutch lines are custom made from Cycle Brakes. Galpher makes the lines for them. The clutch line is 47" and the brake line is 27" in length for anyone interested in doing some risers mods. I had to lengthen the brake switch and clutch switch wires only. The main wire harness's need to come out the bottom of the fairing brace instead of the top. Pull the mounting bolts out on the fairing brace, slide it forward and drop the harness's down. That will give you more to work with. The last change is to route your throttle cables to come out on the right of the fairing bracket instead of the left. The factory has them going over the bracket and across from left to right. They pull tight in the stock position when turning the bars to the right. Very poor setup. If you need more advice on this let me know. Here are some pictures of the new risers: http://hurshey1brat.smugmug.com/gallery/4593156_DH Tkv/1#270856933 | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
"They pull tight in the stock position when turning the bars to the right. Very poor setup." Ever notice where the wire bundle off the back of the Ignition/Lock assy come's out , when you turn hard to the right , the wire bundle is pulled and stressed pretty hard , IMO , another poor setup , again...IMO (Message edited by thurstonbuell on March 27, 2008) | ||
| Ccryder |
Great looking mounts. Fine looking welds. Wish I could weld that pretty. So.... when does production start?? Neil S. | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Ccryder, Thanks for the complements. My welding is not up to industry standards. Good thing I'm not in production. I will test the risers and see how strong they are. How's your stuff coming along? | ||
| Ccryder |
With the stock brake and clutch lines I will be very limited on how much change I can get. I ran out of time last night and had to put everything back to stock. I did leave the fork mounts on the fork tubes. Next week I'll be able to play some more. Your helpful hints on harness and t-cable routing are great. That was the next limitation I could see. It will also be very close to have the M/c's mount correctly since they are sooo close to the bars. Next week and the weekend after I'll play some more. BTW, how much were the lines you have? Thanks Neil S. | ||
| Sheridan_bueller |
Bratman, fix up a purge to the inside of the tubes and walk the cup around the next set, watch for the puddle to start swirling to know you're penetrating 100%. It will look like a machine did the welding and it will be welded on the inside as well. They look great BTW! JJ | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Sheridan bueller, Thanks for the complement and the advice. What gas are you talking about for the purge? I'm still a nubie at welding and have some friends who do it for a living. They have that machine welded look on all of there stuff. Practice, practice, practice! | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Ccryder, When you get ready to do the throttle cables, here are a few steps to follow. You will need to of course remove the air box and base plate on the throttle bodies. The base plate is a real pain to pull off. It tucks in up front to the scoop in front of the motor. When pulling it off pull up from the back to the front. There are some lines and things to unhook first also. You will see what I mean once you have the air box off. I'm sending a link from my pictures to see things up closer. Any questions send me an email. Oh, the price on the lines was $109 delivered. http://hurshey1brat.smugmug.com/gallery/4210188_qa hRz#246131855 p.s. watch that little filter breather when reinstalling the throttle plate. You will see where it fits in on the bottom of the plate. Good luck. | ||
| Sheridan_bueller |
Bratman, it appears you are TIG welding the risers. Argon in the torch and argon through the tubes while welding. On something that small you'll want an argon purge at about 1-2 CFH. The purge outlet orifice (can be made out of anything from tape to a cork) should be about 1/8". What you're after inside the tubes while welding is an inert atmosphere, not pressure. (Don't try to smell for the argon. It has no smell and it isn't poisonous but it will fill your lungs and kill you 'cause you can't breath it out). You should end up with a dandy, flush weld on the outside and nice, bright bead on the inside. Keep up the good work, your fittings are first class! And, yes, practice, practice, practice. JJ JJ | ||
| Bratmanrider |
Sheridan bueller, Thanks again for the info on improving the welding process. I will try the purge system on the next set I do. I am working on a rear trunk setup right now. Tired of wearing that backpack everywhere. Will post pictures when it's done. |
