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Buell Forum » Buell RACING & More » Racing - Circuit/Road Racing » Archive through December 19, 2008 » How do you down shift an 1125 « Previous Next »

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Duggram
Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 10:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was just watching the Ken Hill video from Infineion. Noticed that his down shifting is a lot smoother than mine. When I down shift too early the ass gets squirrely. I use the clutch but I don't blip, on the advice of experts. This upsets the bike and I'm concerned about what happens if leaned over (actually I know what happens and it's not good).

I try to get all downshifting done before entering the turn, then head for the apex and start rolling on the throttle. But I'm a rookie and not sure of myself. I go to my first advanced riding school next weekend. Any advice appreciated.
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Eboos
Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I only had one day on the 1125R, and I was blipping at first out of habit. Blip or no blip, I was using the clutch to control any engine braking. I never rode any other bike with a slipper clutch, so I was basicly being my own slipper.
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White79bu
Posted on Sunday, November 23, 2008 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I brake with two fingers and blip the throttle at the same time. I have a certain way I was taught that works great. It just takes time. I even do it while I am commuting back and forth to work for practice.
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Jmr1283
Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i dont race on tracks but ive really taken some time to get down shifting right, for when i do go racing.
Ive found the only gear to give problems mostly is 1st. but others do if goin really fast but heres what i do and theres no engine braking. even in first.

When i go to down shit and let out the clutch, i match the clutch release with throttle increase. it takes some getting used to but it works like a charm.
i can go to a off ramp and shift into 1st above 40 and theres no rear wheel weaving.
its really smooth.
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Slaughter
Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Depending on the school you are attending, every school I'm familiar with will allow a course instructor/rider to follow you and spot you for throttle, shifting, braking (and other points)

Seriously, I'd ask one of their instructors to spot you on a few turns.

I have only been on two track situations with the 1125R and really think that in hard braking and downshifting that you really still have to "blip" it. The slipper wouldn't make my downshifting completely "idiot proof" (I screwed up a couple because I'm used to reverse pattern shifting) - I would still get a lot of hopping when I would drop a couple gears and let out the clutch while braking. I never got the hang of trail braking/downshifting/turning with the slipper... but again, I'm talking 2 Inside Pass days in 2 different years so take it with a grain of salt.
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Duggram
Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 01:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The school I'm attending this weekend has video cameras mounted on each instructor's bike. They follow you then you go back to the classroom and review your ride on a laptop. At the end of the two day school they burn a DVD with your vids on it. Not bad for only $350.
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Duggram
Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 02:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Josh, the only time I get the wheel hop and shimmy is down shifting from ~130 into 2nd gear for a sweeper. Most other situations are under control. But I know I'm going to progress, go faster and get into hairrer situations.
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Jmr1283
Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

well i guess that would be hairy. i have nothin for advice with that.lol and the law is happy.
at what speed do u end up releasing the clutch.
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Duggram
Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Right away with a hesitation between 3rd and 2nd. But don't forget the front brake is on hard too. Maybe there's just no getting away from it. The rear is light and down shifting is like putting on the brake. I just know to only do this while pointed straight. Thanks for trying.
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Eboos
Posted on Monday, November 24, 2008 - 10:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hard on the front brake will transfer most of your weight forward, so any engine braking at that point may get the back end a little wiggley. Modulate your clutch, and you will be fine.
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