| Author | Message | ||
     Cronan128 |
has anyone switched over to chain drive and if so what seems to be working best for gearing | ||
| Easyrider |
Cronan, I assume dragracing, is your bike stock?.. | ||
| Cronan128 |
yeah the bike is stock yet i want to switch over to chain drive but since there is no adjustabilty in the swingarm i don't know what to do about it | ||
| Easyrider |
Cronan try these guys www.bakerdrivetrain.com I know he was busy making sprockets for XB | ||
| Slaughter |
You really need to set your gearing based on the track (or roads) you're running. You have to (kinda/sorta) set the gearing to JUST ABOUT hit rev limit in top gear at the fastest place on the track. If you can hit rev limit, it's too low, if not, it's too high. You need to be able to get the most acceleration without bouncing off the rev limit all the time. Just use a riveted chain tool and adjust your chain length by adding/removing links. You really don't need a slider/adjuster. | ||
| Easyrider |
Slaughter, The awnser need a little bit more info Don't you also think you should use your powerband to measure your gearing?. It's not only the rev limmiter.. It's using the ideal powerband/shift combination When you know that, start to work on your gearing. (Message edited by easyrider on August 28, 2006) | ||
| Slaughter |
Easyrider - in one sense you're right BUT since we can't change our intermediate gearing (unless we own an RR with the cassette gear change option) - we're limited to final drive ratio selection. If we gear our machines as LOW as possible without over-revving them, we'll get the best overall acceleration - and the gearing is in effect "shortened" somewhat - making it a tad easier to keep it in the powerband. Keeping the bike spinning in its powerband IS the best way to get the most power - of course, the motor won't last nearly as long as a motor that plunks along at 4K or less for most of its life. I've found on my S3 streetbike, I can get nearly anywhere in the country without going over 4K RPM - of course, it's only just STARTING to make power at 4K - and it makes for some pretty dull/boring riding - but if I'm going a couple hundred miles over dull/straight/freeway roads, figure I may as well baby the motor a little. The racebike gets rebuilt more often because it spends a LOT of its life around and above 7K RPM | ||
| Slaughter |
I ought to erase my freaking responses since I didn't take the time to read the TITLE OF THE THREAD - DRAG RACING All my statements are truly NONSENSE in the context of drag racing. I feel pretty stooopid - erasing my comments above would only make it look STOOPIDER (slaughter now sneaks quietly away, hoping nobody notices) | ||
| Medic352 |
What about changing the primary drive gearing? XL883, XL1200, XB9 and XB12 all have different sprockets on the crankshaft, I bet the Blast has an even smaller one. That is part of how they gear XR750's. Something to consider. Change the sprocket and readjust your primary chain, viola, new gear ratio from the motor to the transmission. No cassette transmission needed for drag racing, dirt track or road racing, right?!?} |
