| Author | Message | ||
     Cdh4088 |
I am getting horrible front brake shudder on the '10 XT, all of the previous posts on this say to purchase the ebr rotor and mounting hardware. That isnt an option right now, so whats the best option in the current market? what was different about the EBR mounting kit? | ||
| Teeps |
what was different about the EBR mounting kit? The main thing is it uses a belleville (spring) washer instead of coil springs. Install the rotor mounting hardware kit; you wont be disappointed. It reduced the front brake pulse on my '06 Ulysses to the point that if it does still pulsate, I don't notice it. (Message edited by teeps on April 28, 2015) | ||
| Hughlysses |
There may be alternative suppliers for the hardware kit- check American Sport Bike or Twin Motorcycles. | ||
| Xbimmer |
What pads are you using? How many miles on the rotor? | ||
| Arry |
Apparently the stock pads leave a residue that causes pulsing. If the pulsing goes away by cleaning the rotor with sand paper, the rotor is probably OK. Every time I did this the pulsing would come back. I put EBC HH (FA345HH) pads on, at about 12k, and I've been happy (with the braking) for the last 10k. I still have the stock rotor and mounting hardware. | ||
| Nobuell |
I have never had a pulsing issue with stock mounts or the EBR mounts. Before installing new pads, sand the hell out of the rotor to remove all of the residue leaving only shiny metal then clean thoroughly with brake cleaner. Be aggressive with braking on occasion to heat things up and burn off deposits. Note, remember the EBR kits are not available for now. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
Ok, help a guy out here then. I have pulled my front wheel before to put on new tires. That doesn't bother me. I have never done brakes or brake fluid. I do have pulsing, but am ready to try the cheap fixes first. Do I need to pull the rotor to sand, or sand it in place? Wet sand I am assuming, or will that make a mess? If I change pads, is it required to change the fluid, or is that just a common thing to do at the same time? Thanks guys. The rotor was next on the list, but I think cleaning the existing one and new pads may be the first step with minimal loss in investment. 26,000+ miles and no brake work as of yet. So I may be overdue. | ||
| Hughlysses |
^ I would think you need to pull the rotor to do a good job and avoid scratching up the wheel. I don't think you need to wet sand as you'd probably want to use fairly coarse sandpaper (120 grit or so?). American Sport Bike sells a hone specifically made for the purpose if you want to go that route. It's a good time to change the fluid; you should change it once a year or so anyway as it accumulates moisture from the atmosphere. IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP: Before you push the pistons back into the caliper to make room for the new pads, thoroughly clean any brake dust residue from the outside surface of the pistons. Use Q-tips, an old shoe string, or similar. Most here say avoid using brake cleaner as it may attack the seals, but something like Simple Green would probably be OK, or you can just do it dry. If you don't clean the dust off before pushing the pistons back in, they will hang up and cause the brakes to stick and even bind up without warning. Some of the pistons are really hard to get to so take your time and be thorough. (Note- Cars don't have this problem as they have rubber boots over the pistons to keep brake dust off of the surface of the pistons.) | ||
| Froggy |
Pulsing is cause by brake pad material buildup, either on the rotor surface itself, or in the mounting hardware. A through cleaning of the rotor and mounting hardware (wheel cleaner like S100 works great) can significantly reduce pulsing. Sanding the rotor can help too if the buildup is on the rotor. For the future, I recommend not using the front brake to hold the bike in place when stopped, that is when you get the rotor deposits. The rear brake is less susceptible, so use that instead. | ||
| Ourdee |
Well...OK.... The cheap, and easy fix? This is what I did to mine when it started pulsing. Ran it up to 60+ mph. Then used the front brake to bring it down to 5 mph real quick. Then let the pressure off of the front brake smoothly prior to coming to a stop. I did this 6 times in a row to smear the buildup on the rotor smooth. After that it didn't pulse. To keep the pulsing from coming back I would come off the front brake prior to coming to a complete stop. Never hold the bike stopped with the front brake after stopping. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
Makes sense actually. Why take it off to sand, when the sanding blocks are built in. HA! | ||
| Buewulf |
"The cheap, and easy fix?" This also worked for me. | ||
| Smorris |
is the ebr mounting kit available any longer ? and if so where can it be found? | ||
| Hughlysses |
is the ebr mounting kit available any longer ? and if so where can it be found? I imagine there are still at least a few laying around the factory that will eventually become available one way or the other. It's possible you might find the kit in stock at an EBR dealer. I believe all the parts except for some spacers are standard off-the-shelf hardware: larger headed Torx bolts, copper washers, & Belleville spring washers. The spacers might require a machine shop. You might be able to put the parts together on your own with a little effort. | ||
| Smorris |
thanks, kind of thinking the same, but thot best to have a set in hand to pattern from | ||
| Phelan |
I have a similar question, different scenario. What about if there is no pulsing, only poor performance? Mine just doesn't have the bite that it should. I had a ZTL setup on my S2 and it just stopped much better. It also had the rev. 1 EBR rotor though (pre-RS/RX/SX rotors), the one they sold for $160 new at the time. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Bite should be tunable with different pad compounds, right? Or you can start tweaking which master cylinder out use up at the bars and get more effective leverage (longer but lighter pull). Derek Capito (a Radian guru who has visited us a few times here, runs motolab) did some pretty neat calculations of different mixing and matching of master cylinders to get different effective ratios of leverage. (Message edited by reepicheep on May 15, 2015) | ||
| Biffdotorg |
Did the cheap fix tonight. It's a Band-Aid, but it worked for me as well. Thanks for the quick tip! | ||
| Phelan |
Deep, it's not the initial bite that's the issue, but bite in general. I can slam the lever to the handlebar and it won't pull the rear end off the ground, nor does it stop quickly at all compared to the other bikes I've owned. And I hear a weird clicking noise when I do pull it. I had blown fork seals a while back and had oil all over the pads and the rotor. But I sanded the pads and the rotor clean when I changed the fork oil and seals. I'm thinking I may have a stuck piston or something. (Message edited by phelan on May 15, 2015) | ||
| Arry |
If you can "slam the lever to the handlebar", you probably need to bleed the brakes (air in the system). | ||
| Phelan |
Point taken. I should clarify, there is plenty of resistance and the lever doesn't actually hit the handlebar, but it is close, pulled in pretty much as tight as it will go, on hard stops. I should probably change the fluid and bleed it all the same. | ||
| Ourdee |
I would guess you have glazed pads. Solution #1, new pads. Solution #2, I have heard on the internet that you can sand the glaze off of the pads, I haven't tried it. If the clicking is a continuous clicking, your listening to the holes in the rotor hitting the leading edge of the pads. If the clicking is one or two clicks, that would be the head bearings are too loose, or bad, or both. Could be more issues, but, I'm just going with my best guesses. | ||
| Twisteduly |
Im wondering if the pads were soaking up the fork oil, did you hit them with brake clean? I agree with the previous poster, change the pads. (Message edited by twisteduly on May 16, 2015) | ||
| Phelan |
I did hit them with brake clean, and sanded the surface down, but neither seemed effective. I will change the pads and fluid, and eventually the rotor as well; I always wanted a Braking rotor anyway  . | ||
| Arcticktm |
You may have already planned it this way, but I would suggest changing the pads and rotor at same time, and not sequentially. You don't want to carry over the problem just to try and save $50 on pads (or whatever they cost now, which is a lot cheaper than that Braking rotor that you don't want to contaminate!). | ||
| Cdh4088 |
I went ahead and bought ebc hh pads for both ends of the bike. Its only got 8000 miles on it, the rotor should be OK. We will see in a week | ||
| Phelan |
I agree Jim, that is the plan. I'll probably start with cheap pads on this rotor, to see if there's any difference, but I'll replace the pads again with good pads when I replace the rotor. Definitely the best way to go. | ||
| Teeps |
I put a set of front pads From D2Moto on my '06 Ulysses in March of 2014. They work fine for my usage. Seem to be wearing well... your experience may vary! http://www.d2moto.com/ VBP172-f-6 2006-2010 Buell XB12X Ulysses Kevlar Front Brake Pads $9.79, shipping included. | ||
| Phelan |
Teeps, that's what I got for both the PM and Nissin calipers I ran on my S2. They worked fine for me as well. I actually just got an email from them today. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Kinda surprised Jim Dugger hasn't chimed in here. The OLD mounting system used Belleville washers and the rotor floated. Too much heat stayed in the rotor. NEW hardware includes a flat copper washer, like a crush washer between rotor and wheel boss. This pulls a lot more heat from the rotor but you have to have more precision in the boss surfaces than old Buell wheels. Jim had to have some wheels machined for flatness early on. FYI Z | ||
| Teeps |
How "old" is old? My '06 Ulysses' front rotor was mounted with coil springs, and other bits, from the factory. | ||
| Zac4mac |
If you can tap the rotor with a nylon hammer and hear it move, it's old mounting hardware. I think coils were used, then Bellevilles then finally hard-mounted. The floating system worked quite well for street riding but had insufficient heat scrubbing for racing. The part I like about the old system, is when you feel any pulsing, wack(lightly 2-3x) the rotor at each mounting boss to knock out the dust and the pulsing will be gone...try it. Z | ||
| Zac4mac |
Did a little checking and I was wrong... Right about floating, wrong about hardware. My 2, an 08 1125R and an 09 Uly have coil springs and float. Same hardware back to the first XBs, 2003. My 2012 1190RS and the 2014 RXs and 2015 SX are the new system and are solid. I thought I remembered 2 Bellvilles back-to back for another floating mount but can't find anything like that. Z | ||
| Smorris |
a year ago purchased from ebr; Front brake rotor mounting kit; CQ0001.11AZ. installed on my 06 xb12x. iirc this was a beleville washer per mount, i am sure there was no spring. earlier this year tried to locate a kit to throw into the spare parts box. no luck |
