| Author | Message | ||
     Billy_bee |
I am getting a muffler valve code (21) on my '06 Uly. I happened to find a used Uly muffler in excellent condition on CL. As rusty as mine is, I decided to buy the used muffler...it's been sitting around for a while. I just removed the old muffler and found that the flapper seems to be working just fine. Ergo, the problem is in the actuator. While I had not noticed an unusual spike or dip in power as a result of the 21 code, that does not surprise me as an old, cracked ECM was throwing codes all over the place. By the time I got a new ECM in and the TPS reset completed, it had been long enough since the bike had been running well that I did not notice changes in power or throttle response. It seems to be running GREAT with the new ECM, and it's hard to tell how the muffler flap is or is not affecting the bike. I've read in the Vault that it is worthwhile to have the valve operational. It certainly makes sense on paper that a change in back pressure would change the power curve. And I gather that an operational valve makes the curve more smooth. Any suggestions as to what I should do? The actuator (P/N S1138.1AA) is about $175 at the local dealership. Is there a way to trick the ECM into thinking the actuator is working so I can get the idiot light to turn off while I deliberate spending the money on a new part? Thanks, Bill | ||
| Schwara |
The way I understand it is that you have a few options. Yes, you can get an emulator (A.S.B. I believe) to trick the ECM into thinking you have a working actuator. I think I read that you can also use ECMspy to disable the code. Or you can also get an E.B.R. race ECM that doesn't use the actuator. When mine died I had a few other things I wanted to do anyway so instead of the $175 for a new actuator I just put that towards sending the muf out for modification (power & sound) where it no longer uses the actuator, and then got a race ECM as well. The emulator is the cheapest option, unless you already have ECMspy and want to play around with trying that route. If you can't find the emulator out on A.S.B. send Al a line and I'm sure he'll help you find what you need. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I've run my Uly with an aftermarket valve-less muffler / Race ECM combo, with a stock muffler / Race ECM / wired-open valve combo, stock muffler/stock ECM combo operating normally, and stock muffler / EBR ECM combo. Aftermarket made more noise, made my ears ring after a long ride. Hole in the powerband, decent overall performance. Then I got a stock muffler to put on. Ran it with the race ECM (muffler was the only change) and the valve wired open since the Race ECM didn't have valve control. Eh. Probably ran about the same as the aftermarket muffler did, just less noise. Then, I found my old stock ECM and put that in, and enabled the valve. Wow, what an improvement!! No more hole in the powerband, gobs of torque all over the tach. But, still that slight stock-hiccup here and there at really low, lugging-the-engine RPMs. I sent my Race ECM to EBR, asking them for the "best available all around" program for a stock 06 Uly with an open inner airbox and a K&N, with muffler valve control for a stock muffler. I put that one in, and I'll never go back. Smooth power delivery, no hiccups, great fuel mileage, nice and quiet - GREAT stuff. For my money? Get a working actuator, and use the valve. It really is there for a reason  | ||
| Ourdee |
I know that I'll wind up running the stock pipe in the end. But, I still want to make a muffler with 2 cherry bombs side by side. One of them would have the valve at the inlet and be used to increase back pressure by the ECM. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
With the ecm-spy is dead easy just disable the box and no more red light nor code showing. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Ourdee Posted on Saturday, December 31, 2011 - 06:44 pm: I know that I'll wind up running the stock pipe in the end. But, I still want to make a muffler with 2 cherry bombs side by side. One of them would have the valve at the inlet and be used to increase back pressure by the ECM. ----------- Cool idea! I made a pipe for my 9S with the help from a friend at a muffler shop. It was basically just big tubing that mated to the header, ran under the engine and curved to the left to dump near the stock location with a manually adjustable butterfly valve in it. I spent a little time dialing in the back pressure using the valve and it ran ok. A bit less power than stock but it sounded pretty good. One day the valve parts shook loose and fell off on the road. I found most of them but by then I was ready to put the factory race pipe back on it. | ||
| Uly_man |
I ran a 06 Uly with a Remus can, breather mod, opened air box, K&N air filter, used ECM-SPY to switch off the valve and it run perfect. I then fitted a Remus Powerizer which gave more power in the low/mid range. This was after the Grounding issues were fixed. I now run a 2010 Uly with a Stealth can, open air box, Piper air filter, breather mod and have left the can motor in place. It ran fine from stock but has much better pickup with the new can. Yes I know how subjective the results can be but I take great care to check what they may be. I am much happier with the bike now and it is close to my 06 bike. Seems to rev up a little faster as well and the bike is not quite run in yet either. This bike has the 2nd O2 sensor and is something of a different animal to previous Ulys. The later ECM is much more powerful/faster as well. A few splats/misses on the can change and it run fine. Amazing. | ||
| Billy_bee |
Well, I just bought a (reportedly) slightly used actuator on eBay for $35...shipped. Hard to go wrong at that price. I will check in later with the results, including any performance improvements with the valve working properly. bb | ||
| Tootal |
I went through 3 actuators. I paid for the first replacement and it lasted a month. Dealer would not warranty it so it took a call to Buell Customer Service to get a replacement. The new one was riveted together and contained metal gears and has worked ever since. If the used one's housing is screwed together the gears are plastic and will not be as strong. Lubricate the cable to make it easy on the actuator. Take a ride with the top cover off and watch what it takes for the actuator to move. I'll bet on a normal ride it never does. It only opens at full throttle above a certain rpm. Unless you were racing I'll bet you could leave the valve closed at all times and never miss it! | ||
| Ourdee |
......I'll bet you could leave the valve closed at all times and never miss it! I thought I'd never miss it. I wasn't a 1/4 mile from my house and I opened it up to get around a parked car with oncoming traffic. There was that flat spot between 3500 and 4500. I went straight home and hooked it back up. YRMV} | ||
| Uly_man |
Some people seem to have this 3-4k flat spot issue but I never have. Lucky for me as I would think it is, on these bikes in the worst part of the rev range and a real pain. The problem is that these sort of things are not easy to fix via the net. You need to have the machine "in hand" and be able to spend time with it. It took me two years to figure the Grounding problems with my 06 Uly and that was partly luck. I am not fuel or ECM expert on these bikes. All I do know is both my 2006 and 2010 bikes ran/idled well, with all my mods and had no flat spots in any gear/rev combination. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BUELL-XB12-Exhaust-Valve-E mulator-2003-2009-model-/270886467815?pt=Motorcycl es_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f121778e7 | ||
| Uly_man |
Just as a point of note unlike, as I found with my 06 bike the std can setup on my 2010 EU bike works (if a little dull in sound) very well. I have looked through the mapping of the 2010 ECM version and it has much more power, memory, speed and control than say the 06 types. The second O2 sensor one these bikes is what they should have have had from day one. Not many now will come across a 2010 XB for sale but if you do find one buy it. Sell you Wife, Mother, Kids, Dog, Lungs and poke the Devil in the eye for the chance of one because once you get on it you will find you got it cheap. If your going to sell your soul you may as well sell it for something that has one worth having. | ||
| Billy_bee |
Rode the bike this weekend. The power band is definitely steeper when you hit 4500 rmp without the flapper actuator. It was a little scary at first. I was not expecting the power to spike like it did. Easy to adjust my riding style to the different power curve, but I like it the flat curve better. Much more rideable. So, I think it is well worth having the valve working with a stock ECM. I'll install the used actuator and report back. Also, I think I'll shoot some cable lube down the actuator cable. The valve operates very smoothly. So if resistance is causing the actuator gears to break, it is probably coming from a sticky cable. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Add muffler cable lube to your maintenance schedule, same time you lube your throttle cables. Just sayin' | ||
| Buellhusker |
Speaking of cable lub, what lub are you using?? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I use dri-slide. 4 or 5 oz bottle, comes with a needle applicator. Loosen the cables so you can slide the needle between the end of the sleeve, and the cable itself. Slide the needle in an inch or 2, and squeeze the bottle. Operate the lever a couple times and you'll feel the difference immediately. If you have a newer clutch cable, do NOT lube it. It's teflon coated and does not need it. Giveaway is a white inner sleeve around the cable itself. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Thanks, Ratbuell! Very good info! | ||
| Billy_bee |
I installed the valve actuator and went for a ride yesterday. An operational actuator/muffler valve makes a huge difference. The torque curve is not only much more flat, but it feels much more powerful, too. This was the last repair I made following a series of troubles that all came at once. I replaced the ECM with a good used one I found on eBay for $50. I was getting crazy codes. Then, I did a TPS reset using ECM Spy. I had to take the airbox off and clean the throat/butterfly plate of the TB because it had gotten completely gummed up with oily grime. Only then was i able to get the TPS to work properly. I think a sticky throttle cable created some problems, too. Lubed thwt up and the throttle feels much lighter. I was still left with the 21 code, muffler valve. Replaced a rusty muffler with a very clean one I found on CL for $100. this one sounds throatier. I like it. But I was still getting the 21 code. So, I found a good used actuator on eBay for $35. I installed it and the code cleared itself. So, it has been a few months since my bike was really running right...maybe too long to really make a thoughtful back-to-back comparison of the power. But the bike pulls unbelievably smooth and strong. It has never run this well. Agree that cable lube is huge. Helped with the throttle and TPS reset and I think it will help keep the new actuator healthy. I still have an unusual electrical bug. I'll start a new thread for that... Thanks for everybody's help. Bill |
