| Author | Message | ||
     Hotredjohn |
My old light bar broke today (purchased about three years ago from a guy I found here). I have the PIAA 510 ATP lights. I have seen some posts on the GME light bar, but don't know if he still sells them or how to get in touch. If anyone has a link to a source of light bar please post here. Thanks | ||
| Dynasport |
Palmer sells a light bar. Is that the one you bought, or a different one? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
The GME bar won't break on ya and you will like the price! Gimme a minute... | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Gary Eliseo 3121 E. La Palma Ave. Unit Q Anaheim, CA 92806 It's a well built, great looking piece. | ||
| Hotredjohn |
Don't remember the name but here is a picture.  | ||
| Hotredjohn |
I found the user that made the light bar (Lorazepam), he had a web site at one time but no longer. I saw the Palmer light bar, a bit expensive and in the UK. I would rather find a US manufacturer, and it looks like GME is the answer. Hopefully I and connect with him soon to replace it. | ||
| Dio |
I just used a piece of 1/4" x 2" aluminum flat bar stock for mine. Taper the ends a little, and polish it with a scotchbrite, and it looks good too! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I went with the loews aluminum bar stock method. I didn't round the ends or even remove the purple paint from the factory on the end  Just wanted to see if it worked and then never took it off again to finish it! | ||
| Sekalilgai |
+1 on GME...It holds the bike up nice DAMHIK | ||
| Hotredjohn |
Natexlh1000, what size bar stock did you use? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
It is .25" by 1" It was in a 4 foot length. Still enough left for two!   My only issue has been that they resonate at 75 miles per hour. I plan on trimming them down by an inch on each side to increase the frequency. I would suggest to try finding some stock that's just a little thicker. But they work MINT. They blind idiots and also allow me to see very nicely. I was able to complete this project for about $50 total. Lights = $20 (Autozone) Bar = $14 (Loews) Relay = $6 (eastern beaver) | ||
| Ratbuell |
I put CR mirrors on my Uly, and mounted my aux lights to the holes vacated by the old turn signals...  | ||
| Metaldude |
From the looks of the bar that broke, it appears to be cast angle iron. (I could be wrong) Cast iron is strong, but brittle. It won't hold up long to vibrations. Go with the aluminum bar as its internal structure is more flexible and will take the vibrations well. I've gotten great results from my home-made "Memphis Shades" which I mounted with aluminum bar. And those fairings take a lot of wind force. Keep the bar as short as is functional and even double it up if you're worried. It's super cheap!! | ||
| Hotredjohn |
It is made of aluminum with a bend slightly more than 90 degrees. I had it on the bike for about two years. When I first installed it I wondered how long it would last due to vibrations. Still waiting to hear back from GME on his design replacement, might also check if the police Uly part is available. | ||
| Hotredjohn |
I took the bracket off last night and the other side was about to break off as well. Glad I found this before my planned trip to the Tail of the Dragon next month. Going to pick up some Al stock and try and mount the lights as others have suggested. A temporary fix until I can get the bar made by GME. | ||
| Hangetsu |
I have the Palmer light bar and it works quite well. It's made of laser cut stainless that looks a little thin I flimsy compared to the GME bar, but it works fine. The only thing I had to mod was the hole size where the lights bolt on. As is they are too small for PIAA lights. I drilled out the holes, had the thing powder coated black and mounted it up. It looks and works fine. | ||
| Yjsrule |
I made one yesterday, 1/4x1 aluminum, worked out pretty good I guess.  | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I'm not trying to advertise for anyone but Gary's GME litebar is a kit that is ready to go. It comes with all the nuts and bolts required and --- it's ball milled. Mine looks like it will outlast the bike. It adds very little weight to the bike. THIS IS GOOD STUFF THAT WILL LAST. It costs about the same as taking the family to Micky D's. What's not to like? | ||
| Dynasport |
So, is the only way to get in touch with Gary the snail mail address above? | ||
| Panhead_dan |
He is a member over at ADVRIDER. When I got mine, I just pm'd him there. | ||
| Froggy |
Mine did. It was bent in my last wreck, I tried to take it off to straighten it out and reuse, but the bolts seem to have welded themselves to the damaged lower tree. | ||
| Barkbuster |
Quote: He is a member over at ADVRIDER. When I got mine, I just pm'd him there. What is his user name over at advrider? | ||
| Hotredjohn |
Barkbuster, his username is the same as here GME. I completed the install using the 1/4 x 1 inch bar yesterday, I am very pleased with the results. I used rubber washers behind the bar to help reduce vibration. I have not ridden the bike yet so I still may need to make final adjustments to the beam alignment. My last thing to do is have the bar powder coated black, I have a friend that should be able to handle it. If it performs well I may skip buying a bracket from GME. Here is a picture of the final install.  | ||
| Mattmcc00 |
I built my own with an "L" shaped piece of Aluminum. The "L" shape gives it great rigidity. I did have to run my fender on the table saw to make an cut into it to run the "L" of the bar through. I was worried about making the fender weaker but in fact the cut with the aluminum bar in it has strengthened it. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
Barkbuster, It's gme. (no caps) | ||
| Sharkguy |
Here is a link to the light bracket if you want to roll your own. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25 4189 |
