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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through July 03, 2010 » Hestitation at 2000 RPM « Previous Next »

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Beatnick_fly
Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 02:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is my first time posting on a motor issue with my '06. 16,500 miles, all stock except for a K&N air filter about 5K miles ago. Lately it's been running rough anywhere at a low RPM between 2000 and 2500 RPM. Took it to HD, after 3 days, resetting this and resetting that, changed the plugs and $188 later, it only seems a fraction better. Certainly not $188 worth. The tech told me my primary chain was so tight I might seize the motor. Now, I admit, I've never touched the primary chain on this bike, but plenty of times on other HDs'. If it's too tight, the nylon bushing wears down, also said my motor oil, (Bel Ray synthetic, about 2500 miles on last change) was black. I don't get these guys, do they thing we're all stupid?? Anyway, has anyone experienced this slight but annoying hesitation at that RPM level?? This bike has been running flawlessly 'till I took it to them, (HD). Any help would be appreciated.
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Yamafreak
Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 07:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Every time I change my oil it looks almost black.
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Onezeno
Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought all Uly's had that hesitation in those low RPMs. My new 09 does. I'm surprised you never had it before. Other owners say you can completely clear it up by playing with the fuel mapping.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 22, 2010 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine 'learned' a flatspot around 4k on the Homecoming trip...but again, 2200 miles cruising at that rpm, at like 10% throttle...it will learn goofy stuff. Once I do my service I can get back to my normal riding style (beating the snot out of it) and it'll learn to behave again, I'm sure : )

For your 2k issue...first question, why are you revving it so low? Second - what throttle position? Part throttle? WFO? Cruise throttle?

Pull your airbox cover and run the exhaust actuator test, and check the cable adjustment for the actuator.

Does it change / get more pronounced in wet weather? When's the last time you replaced plug wires? Did a TPS reset? Let it do an AFV relearn?

More background, please... : )
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Towpro
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your correct about the bike "learning" stuff. the ECM always adjusts the fuel injection to what it feels is correct.

This is where ECM spy is nice to have.
Reset the AFV to 100 (this is the thing the ECM adjust) and then reset the TPS and the bike will run good for a while.
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Beatnick_fly
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks everyone, when I picked the bike up on Friday the service tech at HD said "the mechanic that worked on your bike said the primary chain was so tight , you might ruin your motor, all the fluids are black and we recommend a complete fluid change and a conference call to (whoever) to see what the problem is" Now I gotta tell ya, I'm 64 years old, worked on a lot of bikes for a loooonnng time. I only brought it in because it doesn't have a carb, it's got FI that has to be set with a program. Anyway, when I picked the bike up, the clutch grabbed at the last .00001 mm and dragged all the way home, I couldn't even ride it around the parking lot. So I RE-adjusted the clutch the next day, took less than 4 minutes, and I've never done it before. This morning I said, "maybe I better check the primary chain". It was SOOOOO incredibly loose, I'm surprised it didn't jump off the sprockets. So I re-adjusted that, in about 2 minutes, and now the bike runs as smooth as a baby's ass and then some. It took them 2 hours and $188 for this. I went back and spoke to the service tech at HD and they looked at me like I had 10 heads. 'Whos this old f**k tellin' us what to do??. This isn't rocket science, it's mechanical, I don't care how old I am or how young and smart you think you are. The work WAS NOT done correctly. This is my first AND LAST experience with Harley Davidson Service techs. If it's not some bolt on piece of chrome crap, they don't know squat about it.
Sorry for the rant, but to me, this is really minor stuff. If I can do it on my garage, on the floor, NO lift, where it's 95 degrees and 98% humidity, these HD squids should be able to do simple adjustments in their multi-million dollar shop.
Thanks again, BWB rules!!!!
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Tastroman
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When the manual say to turn the engine when checking the primary chain, how does one go about doing this. I'm such a mechanical noob I am beginning to question if a Buell is the right bike for me. Can someone like myself who has about a 50% chance of turning a bolt the wrong way own a Buell and be happy?
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 04:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

When the manual say to turn the engine when checking the primary chain, how does one go about doing this.




There is a yellow button on the right side controls.
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Yamafreak
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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Buewulf
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 07:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a yellow button on the right side controls.

Now that's funny! Perhaps not the best thing to say to a guy who has a 50% chance of turning a bolt the wrong way, but funny as hell.

how does one go about doing this

I turn the rear tire (bike in 5th gear and rear jacked up of the ground) to turn the motor.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ratbuell, what is this exhaust actuator test of which you write? Is it in the service manual?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't remember if it's in the manual or not...but if you turn the key on with the throttle at WFO, it should cycle the actuator motor.

At least, I'm pretty sure that's it...if I'm wrong, I'm sure someone here can correct me : )
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Pauley2000
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 11:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it's in the manual, and yes that is the procedure.
-p
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Liv2
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 03:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ratbuell, what is this exhaust actuator test of which you write? Is it in the service manual? Or if you use ECMspy you can also run diagnostics on it, the fan, front and rear injectors, coil, tach and maybe a couple of other things.
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