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Dnveloman
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 09:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just had my 10K done at the local harley dealer, which includes front fork oil. While they said they set the rebound/compression exactly the same, the ride felt a little off. When I got home, I went to reset/adjust the rebound and compression. I screwed the rebound all they way in-- then when I went to adjust it to my setting- 1.5 turns out- the left would let me do it, but the right would only go out 1.25 turns.
Anyone know why the rebound screw would have such a limited range now? I'm I paranoid?
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Gotj
Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2008 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I doubt that you are paranoid. An oil change doesn't call for damping rod disassembly but it can happen inadvertently when removing the top cap. If that's happens, there is a procedure to re-zero the setting. I had that experience with the first fork leg I did. It sounds like they didn't follow the proper procedure to me. However, there's no way to verify that without another disassembly. I would take it back and show them the difference that you have found. It's not right.
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New12r
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2008 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have to take the top cap back off, they probably pulled the damper rod to pump the old oil out of the cartridge.

You have to set the range of motion when you reinstall the dampers. it only takes a couple seconds to do, when the forks are apart.

I would make them fix it.
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Dnveloman
Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2008 - 12:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys...

Do you know how may turns the rebound damping usually has from full in to full out?
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Scooter808484
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2008 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Same thing happened to me. It's supposed to be three turns. Both of mine now have about 1.5. I found in the SM where you are supposed to reset it, something the dealer obviously didn't do. I only let them work on it because I had it in to get a belt replaced under warranty. Since 1.5 is about right for me, I haven't reset it. I'll do it at the next change...which I'll be doing myself!
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Gotj
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2008 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Since 1.5 is about right for me, I haven't reset it."

Scooter,

You may want to reconsider. The 1.5 turns in the book are from a specific point in the damping rod. My first reaction (if the 3 turns are the max) is that you are at 3 turns, the final 1.5 turns out. That's just a guess though. You don't really know where you are if it's not properly reset. BTW, you can do the reset without draining the forks or losing any oil. Just work from the top.
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Mbest
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2008 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The rebound adjuster on the top has three turns capacity when it is apart in your hand. When the top cap (preload and rebound assembly) is attached to the damping rod upon reassembly, the rebound adjustment screw must be "in" all the way. Then screw on the damping rod until it just bottoms out on the now closed rebound needle and seat. Then back off the rebound 1/4 turn and tighten the damping rod jam nut. Now complete the top cap assembly on to the fork tubes. (be sure to have set your oil level). You should now have a full 2-1/2 to 3 turns adjustment.

P.S.

With your forks the way they are now, the adjustments from 0 to 1.5 turn are the same on both forks. You just can't go softer on the one with just 1.5 turn available. If you are running in the 0 to 1.5 turn range now, and do not need to go softer, it will not help you to disassemble the forks to correct it.

mike
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Mbest
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2008 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh, and by the way, the Dealer should fix it for free. It's their mistake.

mike
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Dnveloman
Posted on Monday, September 22, 2008 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As usual-- this site it awesome... Thanks for all the advice.
I talked to the service manager today and he was supportive. He scheduled another visit with them-- while he personally didn't understand exactly what was wrong-- he said the buell mechanic would chat with me and get it right. After reading the manual carefully-- you can see how one might skip over the rebound damping reset. I think with this post information-- and the manual-- I should be able to show the mechanic how the rebound locknut was probably moved during the fluid change. Boy- after riding with my suspension dialed in-- you can certainly tell when it is out of whack. I was on bumpy sections of road and it almost felt like the front end was compacting as I went through the bumps... not confidence inspiring.

They haven't lost all my confidence yet... the mechanic did note the small pulsating in the front brake and they said they are replacing the rotor under warranty.

Just wish the darn dealer wasn't 75mi from my house.
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