G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through July 09, 2008 » Exhaust actuator « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rwcfrank
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2008 - 01:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can I "assume" that if the exhaust actuator cycles during the static test that it's working properly> with the cable adjusted properly of course. Is anyone still running their exhaust valve wired open?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Curly
Posted on Friday, July 04, 2008 - 09:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i've been running my exhaust valve wired open for the last week. so far i like the new sound and low speed throttle control seems smoother. i hav'nt noticed any drop in mid-range power as some have suggested. i have noticed that the flat spot moved from 3200rpm to about 2800rpm, which is fine because i try to stay between 3-4000rpm for normal riding. as far as fuel consumption and heat i can't tell any difference but more miles could reveal something. in conclusion for a no cost mod that can easily be put back in minutes, i like it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Andrejs2112
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2008 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I turned mine off with ECMSpy. I'll try wired open and shut to see the difference. I'm sure the factory put it there for a reason. My actuator is bad, so I'll try this until I get a new one.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Xbimmer
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2008 - 06:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My actuator is bad, so I'll try this until I get a new one.

That's a good thing to keep in mind. I think the bike would run better constantly open rather than constantly shut.

If the cable were to break, then I think the bike could run ok by rerouting a cable remnant to hold the valve open from the bottom.

Either situation could be done roadside if necessary.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Growl
Posted on Monday, July 07, 2008 - 11:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I bought a new '06 about year ago and the actuator was stuck shut (corrosion?) until I worked it and loosened it up. I ran it stuck shut, not even realizing, for a couple thousand miles - and it ran good. I also experimented with it wired open briefly - just to see. Of the two extremes, the bike ran better with it shut! With it shut the only loss was the growling sound at full throttle and it was just a wee bit less intense at around 5000 rpm. But with it open it lost pull at low rpm and mid rpm.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Xbimmer
Posted on Tuesday, July 08, 2008 - 01:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With it shut the only loss was the growling sound at full throttle and it was just a wee bit less intense at around 5000 rpm. But with it open it lost pull at low rpm and mid rpm.

I just wired mine open yesterday. The exhaust note is nice especially under hard throttle, but today we did a two-up run through the mountains and the bike has definitely lost its midrange grunt. I found myself just wacking open the throttle to pass and such, and nothing really happening until 5k when it would start its rush.

Curious since my basically open Drummer did well throughout the range.

Think I'll try the wired-closed option next week, but until (if and when) I reinstall my Drummer I'll probably be plain happy with stock.

Rwcfrank... if you've correctly hooked up your cable top and bottom, marked it at the actuator, flipped the kill/power switch to "on", rolled the throttle to WFO, then turned on the key switch, and everything activates/rotates to marked index on the cable according to the book, then you can assume the Interactive exhaust system is OK.

Hope that answers your question!
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration