| Author | Message | ||
     Mike_dinger |
Does anyone have dimensions or a shop drawing on hand for the Ulytility bracket? I tried to get in touch with Lorazepam, but haven't recieved a response. I finally have access to the fab shop, and would light to finally get some driving lamps installed. Thanks in advance. -Dinger | ||
| Mike_dinger |
Nothing? Not even a reply? Man, this must be some bracket!  | ||
| Fwiw |
If you get the drawings, I'd be interested. But it doesn't appear to be that hard to make. A good metal cutting bandsaw, a drill press and access to an anodizing facility is all you need to make small runs. I'd use aluminum angle but with a brake, you could use flat stock. (Message edited by fwiw on August 01, 2007) | ||
| Lorazepam |
You can make the bracket with a jigsaw and a drill. Using angle means the lights need to be adjusted further, due to the 15 degree difference. I havent been on much this week. I will get the measurements to you. | ||
| Lorazepam |
Hey Mike, did you pm me? If so I will check the email on here, I didnt get it. edit: I put an active email address on here now, sorry guys. (Message edited by lorazepam on August 01, 2007) | ||
| Mike_dinger |
Awesome! Thanks Lo. I did pm you earlier in the week. See, I wouldn't have even thought about the rake of the forks. I would have been redirecting air traffic with my mounts (when i get them on, of course).  | ||
| Michael1 |
If you decide to make one, step up to 1/4" aluminum or 1/8" hi-carbon steel. I have some 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 1/8" steel, that I am fabbing up a bracket or two. I am also playing with a 1"x1"x1/4" aluminum angle. I found what I would like, now I just need to do some cutting. The 1/8" aluminum is a bit too thin for the vibes of the Uly with heavier lights. If you are going to ONLY run paved roads, then you'll be fine with the 1/8" AL. But anything else... it'll break due to the vibes of the bike, weight of the lights and length of the bracket. | ||
| Cityxslicker |
Danno just fabbed a set-up for me out of angle iron. Just dont forget to bend the top bracket down 15-20 degrees. Pics will be up this week. | ||
| Xb12lp |
I am looking for a bracket for my uly to mount piaa 510. I spoke with a fabricator, he makes mounts out of alum. that go around the fork tubes. If anyone has any info on mount I am interested | ||
| Xb12lp |
The fabricator just got back to me about the mounts, he is sending some pics that I will post | ||
| Lorazepam |
Ok, I finally got to measuring up the bracket, and got a couple pictures together. The bracket is 14 3/4 inches wide. If you want to make it 15, it will work, but the wider you go, the more likely vibration will cause you problems. The spacing of the mounting holes is 5.25 inches (120mm for our metric friends) The mounting holes are centered 5/8" from the top edge of the bracket, and are 3/8" diameter. The gap to clear the fender is 7 inches wide,and the notch to clear the brake line is a 1/2 inch hole drilled so that the cut to clear the fender makes it a semi circle. I used a 1/2" round file to make the notch, but if you drill the hole prior to cutting the fender notch, you can center the hole over the cut line and get the same thing. You DO NOT want to add the notches that are on the bracket pictured. They were added by the company who made the brackets for me, and have been the source of the failures that have happened. That and the fact that these bikes shake like a an epileptic crack ho in rehab. Here are pictures with the dimensions of the bracket, kind of like engineering drawings. Since I cant post them large enough to to see, here is a link to them. http://lorazepam.smugmug.com/gallery/3255783#18025 8517 I will be happy to answer any questions you may have on making them. the first thing I did was to cut the angle to length, and cover it with masking tape. This makes putting your measurements on the piece easier, and keeps the saw from scratching it when cutting. To make the radius corners, I used a cap from a two liter bottle. Hey, use what you have. The easiest way to make the relief that follows the fork brace, is to cut the fender notch, drill the mounting holes, bolt it on, and trace the outline of the fender brace to the bracket, and then cut it out. It is a pretty easy project, and it will work with the Lightning long, and possibly the TT. If you look at the fork brace, across from the mounting tab holding the brake line is a flat. If you drill and tap the flat to match the other side (sorry I dont know the drill and tap size) you could use this bracket. | ||
| Oldnotbold |
You DO NOT want to add the notches that are on the bracket pictured. They were added by the company who made the brackets for me, and have been the source of the failures that have happened. Yep, I haven't tried to mount mine yet because as soon as I received the bracket, I noticed those and thought "stress riser". I'm building an airplane and that is something that must be avoided at all cost. I will get rid of that and de-bur and smooth everything before I have it powder coated again. Even though there will be less material there, the stress risers will (hopefully) be gone. My plan is to install both the PIAA 1400 fog and 1100X driving lights. Dennis | ||
| Lorazepam |
I will tell you that if you build what I have shown in the pictures, it will carry the 510 lights just fine. It is what I wanted, just needed an angle change of the flat. The extrusion is much more rigid than a pressed piece, and handles the vibration much better. I personally like the hella ff50. They look like they belong on the Uly, and put out a great amount of light. They also give you the opportunity to convert them to HID with the H7 bulbs. For the price of the piaa 1100x you could do the ff50's in hid. That would be a death ray as well. |
