| Author | Message | ||
     Paochow |
I'm looking at putting a Stebel Natilus Compact Horn and a HID kit on my Uly and was wondering if both would fit under the flyscreen? My underseat area is pretty full with tools/tire repair stuff, so I'm planning on putting them up front. I've looked at the installs on each http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/238809.html?1162780912 and http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/233088.html?1160460263 and it looks like you can cram both in there, but wondering if anyone has done it? Thanks. (Message edited by paochow on December 15, 2006) | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Paochow, If you are concerned about space, I would split the ballast and igniter mounting and mount the igniter in the rear below the seat. I have also seen the igniter mounted inside the airbox as well. The ballast has two leads, one for the power source and one to the igniter. You might have to lengthen the igniter to ballast run. I was going to do it myself, but I got lazy and didn't feel like messing with it. Here is how I have the igniter mounted:  It mounts with double sided tape to the cross member. You can see the two leads into the ballast. they aren't anything special, so splicing in a longer run isn't a problem. The original had a fairly long run for this purpose, but is was about a foot short. You can see the ballast run all wadded up in this picture:  Otherwise, I think it's going to be tight. It can be done, but I think you end up needing to fab some sort of bracket. The relay on the right hand side takes up a lot of real estate. I think it's the blinker relay. Good luck. | ||
| Paochow |
Thanks ft_Bstrd, I hadn't thought about the airbox mount. That could be be a potential back up location if I can't get everything to fit under the screen. I'm going to order everything up and give it a go after the holidays. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
You won't be able to get both under the air box due to the relatively short lead from the igniter to the capsule, but you should be able to get the ballast under there with no problems. Here is Corporatemonkey's write-up for his install: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/204623.html He installed his ballast in the airbox, and it looks great. Here's my write-up: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/233088.html I would probably run the cables through the breather base instead of over the frame to make the install a little cleaner. On the left hand side, the main wiring harnes runs into the front faring, so you could zip tie your wires that bundle. I would just drill a hole in the breather base, run your wires, and silicone seal the wires in the hole. That way it's keeps engine heat, just, and water out of the bottom of the box. Hope this helps. (Message edited by ft_bstrd on December 16, 2006) (Message edited by ft_bstrd on December 16, 2006) | ||
| Paochow |
Helps a lot. Thanks again. One more question for you regarding the Aerostich HID kit, are you happy with the 8300K color temperature of the kit? I've read the various debates-I'm not really worried about the LEO attention factor, but rather just want something very bright that lights up the street at night. Looks like January is going to be bike modding month.  I have a 434cc kit, cams, and heated grips ready for the DRZ and PIAA 1100X's, along with the planned HID kit and horn for the Uly. | ||
| Paul56 |
Re: color. I ordered a 5000K kit from xenonpros.com, but they sent a 6000K bulb by mistake. I've been using it while I wait for the correct one to arrive. The 6000K color is a little too blue for my tastes, although the overall effect is still hugely better than the old Silver Star I had. I am also concerned about unwanted attention and would really prefer to have a whiter light. Hopefully the 5000K bulb will be right. They have a good description on their site about color, temp and lumens output. No trouble mounting the ballast and igniter behind the screen, but freeing up some additional space for the Strebel horn would be a good idea. I like the idea of utilizing space under the airbox cover. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Paochow, I am very pleased with the light output. The 8300K light is more blue, but it is very close to what is on my car in color. As far as brightness, a group of us did a group ride that ran long and it got dark. I was elected to be leader once the lights came on. They didn't want to ride behind me and they liked being able to see ahead of me. They are plenty bright. I have never had a single LEO take even a second look at me. The bluer light is more noticeable. On group rides with lots of folks, I sometime volunteer to bring up the rear as it's easier for the leader to pick out my headlight. If you are concerned, buy a different kit. There are several that are very good out there. Aerostitch is the only source. I picked them because they are large and reputable and stand behind their products. Some of the retailers out there seem a little "ricey". I knew that Aerostitch put together a good kit that was intended for motorcycle use. I didn't want some 19 year old telling me "You are putting it on what? I don't think you can do that, but I don't know. I only know Honda Civics!" Good luck and happy modding (I got to get my hands "dirty" adding my 07 airbox today)! Be sure to post up pics when you are done! (Message edited by ft_bstrd on December 16, 2006) | ||
| Paochow |
Thank's for the input guys. I'm thinking I may be able to put the ballast either in or on top of the airbox (No exhaust valve actuator-thanks to race kit.) After looking at some of the other installs on this website, it looks like I could get two HID kits installed and have one for low and one for high beam. However, I'm too much of a flasher right now, and think I would be wearing out the ballast on the high beam in short order nevermind the short delay as well. Would be bright while it lasted though. I'm a big Aerostich fan (in fact they are located in my hometown.) and will be visiting their store this holiday season. If I can ever make up my mind I will either being going with the 'Stich kit or something from xenondepot. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have a kit on the way from xenondepot now. CorporateMonkey had a good writeup and some good ideas, I may try and use what he worked out and build on it. I still have not had a chance to sit on the milk crate and really work it out, but I am thinking of the same problems you are Paochow. I will try and fit the ballast under the flyscreen, but like you my "plan B" was the exhaust servo hole (though I currently have that filled with tools  ). That's the "easier" problem. For the "wear out the ballast" problem, I am thinking of other approaches.. Approach one is the simplest and has been mentioned here before. Leave the wiring as is, put the HID on the high beam wire, and remember to flip the switch to low beam before putting the key in. Once the bike is running, flip the switch back. As a more elegant hack, I am thinking of rigging up a time delay relay. For the first 5 seconds of trying to start, the HID stays on. This means the bike starts fine with the HID on continuously 9999 out of 10000 times. If there ever is a case where the bike is being fussy out in the middle of nowhere and needs a little extra hit for the spark, I can keep the starter held down for more then 5 seconds, after which the hid drops out and the sparkplugs get the extra juice. Now that I think about it more, the time delay relay is probably unnecessary overkill for the incredibly rare times it is really needed. I should just wire around the "drop the HID to start the bike" logic and leave the HID on when the ignition is on. If I really am out in the middle of freaking nowhere with an almost dead battery, I can always pull a fuse to disable all the lights until I get the bike running. That still leaves you with the "you have a headlight out" phenomenon though. Which I would also like to work around. To address that, I am thinking of ways to run both the HID and the filament bulb. This means the low and high beam always run together though, which risks enclosure melting (lightning models). It would *probably* be fine. Even the people running both normal headlights (maybe 120 watts worth of headlight heat) don't always start melting things. The HID only puts out heat closer to a 35 watt headlight (instead of 55). That gives you a 20 watt margin, with a total wattage under to what a 100 watt filament bulb would heat. Do the high beams put out more wattage? Or are they just aimed differently? If so, you could eek out another 10 watts or so of margin by replacing the high beam with the HID and leaving the low beam a low beam. 20 watts less heat is a LOT less heat. Is it enough less that you won't eventually melt something? Unknown. I could get really creative and put a high temperature cutout on the housing with the filament bulb. Leave it on all the time, it will shut itself off if it goes over temperature. That would be cool, but it's a lot of work if the root problem does not exist. Too bad the ECM is not open source. It would be cool to be able to hack up some software and have the ECM control the headlights. I'll post what I figure out. My goal is to have the HID on all the time without wearing it out switching during starter blips, and to have a filament bulb on all the time in the other housing but not aimed in such a way that it is disruptive to other drivers, and without risking melting anything. It would also be cool if the "flash to pass" switch became a "turn off the filament light" when pressed rather then it's current "turn on the high beam". I like having that flash to pass as a safety and convenience feature. It will be a fun little project. | ||
| Bigdaddy |
I just put my Uly light upgrade project on-hold (I'll be standing by, patiently, for the Reepicheep install write-up) This will be good. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Corporate Monkey, Fat Bastard, and others have already done a lot of good ground work... and the information they posted was hugely helpful in choosing what I wanted. It's nice to be adding rather then starting from scratch. | ||
| Paochow |
Definitely a wealth of information on this forum. I owe my race kit install, TPS reset, primary chain adj, polly heater install, bar risers, etc. to excellent writeups on this forum like those made by Ft_Bstrd and Corporate Monkey. Reepicheep, Those Gen 4 balasts on the Auto kit sure look like they would be pretty easy to hide. http://www.xenondepot.com/product.php?product_id=4 Too bad the wires are only 1.5 feet and they are only weather resistant. For those reasons it looks like I would need to buy 2 motorcycle kits instead. I found these kits from Cqlights.. http://cqlight.ca/index.php?cPath=32_45&osCsid=8e9 1b637b64022330c666abc06517520 for half the price of others, but I think it may be a case of you get what you pay for. | ||
| Reepicheep |
My parts showed up today, very quick shipping. The ballast is reasonably small, but so is available space under the 9sx flyscreen. Don't know if I will get to install it until after Christmas or not... the Saturn has an exhaust leak that needs looking after... I'll shoot pictures of the whole thing. | ||
| Paochow |
Which kit did you end up buying? | ||
| Murraebueller |
I put the high output blue HD bulbs (100watt output/ 60 watt draw) in both headlights and installed a switch on the left switchmount that allows me to switch both lights on. Plenty of bright light at night without excessive heat. I can do low beam only, high beam only, flash with the trigger or have both lights on. Switch was $2.49 at Radio Shack, bulbs were $15.00 each, took me about an hour and a half. Murrae  | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I put the high output blue HD bulbs (100watt output/ 60 watt draw) in both headlights and installed a switch on the left switchmount that allows me to switch both lights on. Plenty of bright light at night without excessive heat. I can do low beam only, high beam only, flash with the trigger or have both lights on. Switch was $2.49 at Radio Shack, bulbs were $15.00 each, took me about an hour and a half. I smell somethin' burning!  | ||
| Murraebueller |
Ft-bstrd- Been there for 3500 miles used daily. We've set up several that way with no problems-many Uly/XB riders are running with both lights on with no issues- you just need to be mindful of the wattage. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
It's not the wattage output but the heat output. I have no doubt that the harness can support a 5 watt upgrade in draw. I believe it's been the heat from the bulbs that have been deteriorating the reflector cones. I think the lightnings are less susceptible than the R's. I was just being funny. Not knockin' your set-up. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I didn't buy them from a sponsor, so I don't want to talk about it here without Blake's OK. I think it does make a difference which ones you get. I'll know when mine are set up. I started poking around yesterday between playing with the kids and trying to keep my saturn on the road. Kinda funny, I used to use the Saturn to get Buell parts (M2). No I use the Buell to get Saturn parts (XB9SX). Auto-Karma. Anyway, I used an infra-red non contact thermometer and started poking around. I have the real figures up in the garage and I will eventually summarize and post them, but both headlights on makes the heat go through the roof. Low beam? Something like 149 degrees F after 5 minutes. High beam? Like 159. Both beams on? I chickened out when I saw 190 and terminated my test. Not sure how much hotter they would get. BTW, Harbor Freight has the non contact thermometers on sale for $9.99. It's a great toy if nothing else, I was pointing it at all sorts of things. It's got me rethinking how I can have both a HID and a non HID running at the same time safely. I may have to get the headlight assembly out of there to see what other options might work. Dual HID's would be closer to safe, as each puts out significantly less heat then a filament bulb. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Reep, I will be very interested to see what you come up with. The HIDs put out 100W of light, but consume only 35W of power. They do seem to run cooler (hand thermometer). And we really don't need to know what else you have been pointing your thermometer at. REALLY!  | ||
| Murraebueller |
Gee, do we think air flow over the lighting units while running down the road will affect temperature? Inquiring minds want to know.  Temps on mine seem fine. Ft bstrd- no offense taken- we've installed HID/Ballast units on several bikes- they are very bright but add weight and complication. The cool think about bikes is that everyone gets to choose what they like/want. I have thought about installing the motolights, but with both lights on I can see fine. It's also great to see ADV folks here. Murrae | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I think both the enhanced bulb and HID options work well. In fact, I have both. I put the Silverstars in the bright socket as well as the HID in the low. When I throw the high beams in, I get both. I am not knocking either option. Both are great. There are differences, though, in heat output per watt of light depending on which option you use. I would be interested to see what the difference is between the two. Reep may give us an answer on that question. I had farkle money, so I bought the HID kit. If I didn't have the funds or want to spend them in that area, I would have gone the enhanced bulb route. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Knowing that my housing melted only when I was stopped won't be much of a consolation to me after the fact Got a few emails to get through, then maybe out to the garage for some head scratching. | ||
| Diablobrian |
Blake only really gets upset when someone constantly pushes a non-sponsor's product and excludes mention of sponsors selling a similar product. So you would be OK. If you are sincerely trying to help other badwebbers and there is not a comparable product available from a board sponsor there is no problem at all. It is good that you care about following the board rules, and thanks for the info, I'm considering HID's as an upgrade in the future and I love the detailed reports. | ||
| Rhinowerx |
Installed a BackOFF brake light modulator and a 6500K HID kit today. I installed the BackOFF modulator on both my bike and the wife's CityX. The effect on the CityX isn’t nearly as dramatic as on the Uly - most likely because of the LED lights - still, I think (hope) it'll help wake a few folks up. This being my first HID kit, I decided to just do the one bike for the time being. The install went pretty straight forward - previous reports helped take some of the guess work out of it (thanks guys!). The kit came with a nice little mounting bracket for the ballast that really helped with the install under the front fly screen. The picture below was taken just before I zip-tied everything up, and while it might not look like it, it's a rather clean and secure fit, without being too much of a rats nest.  Anyway, there must be a technique to taking pictures of the headlight on at night that gives a better indication of how this thing really looks.  Both these mods were on my list as part of my new year’s resolution; to increase my visibility on the road. Outside of maybe wearing a hi-viz riding suit, I think I’ve managed to raise the bikes conspicuity level - significantly  Cheers -Jack | ||
| Paochow |
Looks good and bright. You should be seen very well. Did the CQ motorcycle kit have leads that ran back to the battery, or did it wire into the existing wiring? (Message edited by paochow on December 24, 2006) |
