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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through September 17, 2006 » Fork Oil Change? « Previous Next »

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Stevenknapp
Posted on Friday, September 08, 2006 - 07:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone done this themselves?

Mine is coming due, and it looks like what's required is the standard pull the tubes, flip em over, drain them, then refill.

Was wondering if there was a drain plug somewhere? Maybe pull the adjusters? Or...??

Also what's the best fluid?
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Dr_greg
Posted on Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, I've done it; will be doing it again pretty soon. You're right...the proper way is to remove forks, disassemble (somewhat), dump out the oil, refill, etc. I refilled with H-D "Type E" fork oil (for Showa forks), just like the manual says.

You need a tool to compress the spring. I made one myself long ago for the Showa forks on my '92 Ducati 900SS; you can get a "proper" one from one of the suspension tuning shops.

Others in these forums can describe this much better than I; have you done a search?
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just changed the seals on the wife's Yamaha and I filled them up with automatic trans fluid (ATF). That is what used to be recommended for forks long ago in the day. I had to go to Sprawlmart and purchase an air impact driver to get those socket head cap screws that hold all the fork's guts together. For those of you who might think that dismantling a cycle fork is daunting, they really are quite simply put together. It is always wise to have the service manual with the schematic drawings so that you can see what you are getting into.
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Stevenknapp
Posted on Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Others in these forums can describe this much better than I; have you done a search?

I've spent some time searching for this. Didn't find much, looked some more, found:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/153628.html

One thing I've since learned is that the insides of the cartridge forks aren't like the damper rod versions, right? You need to yank it all apart to get the oil changed in the cartridge portion as well. On the others it was pretty straightforward.

Curious, how much oil did you need? Did one quart cover both?
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Gowindward
Posted on Saturday, September 09, 2006 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Steve, You pump the damper assembly to pump the fluid out of it. It takes about 7oz of fluid, but correct method is to set the fluid level with a fork oil level tool. One tip for helping with the job is to loosen the fork cap before loosening the upper and lower triple clamp bolts. This way you don't have to figure out how to clamp in a vise or have the service manuals specialty clamp.

DO NOT remove the lower slider form the outer fork tube unless you plan on replacing the guide bushings. The teflon on the guide bushings gets trashed during the disassembly process.


See www.race-tech.com or www.traxxion.com for tools.
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