| Author | Message | ||
     Wboo |
Can anyone tell me if it is safe or if anyone has had any problems running a 80/100w halogen bulb on their bikes? | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
I'm running the American Sport Bike 110/130 W bulb in my 2000 S3T. It's been in there for almost four years, about 10K miles. No issues. | ||
| Fullpower |
i run the 80/100 H4 in sportsters, they work well, but bulb life is very short. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
I've got a 80/100 in my S3T. Definately much better light. And no problems so far. | ||
| Wboo |
Thanks guys, i was concerned about the heat from the bulb melting the lens and case. Is it a real pain in the ••• to change? | ||
| Steve_mackay |
It's not THAT hard but a little time consuming. 6 bolts to pull the fairing. Squeeze the clips that hold the headlight housing, and it's out... | ||
| Marks3tbillet |
You might want to buy some extra clips, a couple of mine broke pretty easily. | ||
| Al_lighton |
And those same clips are the things responsible for you headlight being all rattly in there. The grip range for the clip is bigger than the thickness of the metal that it clips into, thus the play. It makes your headlight so much less rattly if you take that slop out with spacer sheet. There are a LOT of cheap (both meanings of the word, inexpensive AND low quality) H4 headlight bulbs out there, the cheap ones don't last in the Buell apps. With the pain it is to change it on an S3, it is a good reason to buy a quality bulb. The cheap ones that promise "bright white lights" usually get it by putting blue on the bulb (acts as a yellow filter). They really aren't brighter at all, just whiter. The good ones get that whiteness by using different gases and construction, and truly are brighter for a given power consumption. Buy quality. Al |
