| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
96 S2T, stock front caliper; https://www.performancemachine.com/product/294/cal iper-rebuild-kit-kit-6-piston-caliper I put my old master cylinder on it, which I know works. The caliper stops...but I have to pump it up to keep from pinning fingers under the lever when I 2-finger the brake. I've bled it 3x; gravity bled overnight; gravity bleeding again today while I'm at work...but I'm thinking a caliper rebuild won't hurt. Also, refresh my memory - how do you get the damn caliper off the bike? I pulled the pads out, and it STILL won't rubiks-cube past the rim! What am I forgetting....??? | ||
| Tigermann |
I'd like to know the same thing - the two times I've had to take F. calipers off I finally undid the 9 disc to carrier bolts and slid the disc out of the way. There must be a better way? | ||
| Ratbuell |
I mean...it's close. Like...put a bevel on the edge of the caliper once it's off, close... I know my Uly, there's notches cast into the caliper - line them up with the split spokes and it'll pop right off. Maybe I'll (gasp!) read the manual to see what the Elves recommended.... | ||
| Upthemaiden |
Pretty sure you just have to unbolt the front rotor. It's bigger than a normal rotor so there's no way around it. The downside is those bolts that hold the rotor on are pretty soft(Mine have the old countersunk machine screws, the later bikes switched to normal button head bolts which may or may not be as bad), so I hate messing with them more than I need to. I've got a couple where the internal hex is starting to deform, and one I had to remove with the help of the welder. | ||
| Blks1l |
I haven't had one off in quite some time, though I never had to take a rotor loose, did you happen to push the pistons back in the caliper? I would pull the front wheel before I had to pull the rotor. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yep, mc lid loose, compressed the pistons after cleaning them (so I didn't shove grit into the seals)...the caliper block itself hits the rotor, and the rim. I think I do have to either take off the outer rotor (OEM 2 piece rotor)...or pull it off the wheel. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Page 2-21 of Service Manual...4.) Remove brake pads from front brake caliper. Pads must be removed in order to remove caliper from rotor. so, starting at Front Brake Caliper Removal/Disassembly 1.) Remove banjo bolt and gaskets to disconnect brake line from caliper. 2.) Remove cotter and support pins. 3.) Remove center caliper bolt and spacer. 4.) Remove brake pads from front brake caliper. Pads must be removed in order to remove caliper from rotor. 5.) Remove both caliper mounting bolts. 6.) Free caliper from front brake rotor. 7.) Move caliper assembly to bench area. 8.) Remove screws to separate caliper halves. Remove O-rings and discard. HTH...  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Instructions make perfect sense. Spatial physics contradicts the instructions... | ||
| Rickie_d |
It’s actually pretty simple. If you observe where the interference is when you rotate the caliper outboard between the wheel and rotor, you’ll find that the caliper pistons are interfering with the rotor. All that’s necessary to overcome the problem is before removing the brake pads from the caliper is retract the pistons into the caliper….THEN remove the pads! | ||
| Rickie_d |
Oh, and no, the PM 112X6B kit not correct for the larger unit used by Buell! The correct kit is PM 137X6QC! | ||
| Ratbuell |
According to PM (via email, measurements, etc) the kit for these calipers is 0053-3902 and it breaks the bank at $16.95. I'm ordering two... | ||
| Ratbuell |
Installed the rebuild kit today. Yes, I was finally able to rubiks-cube the caliper out of there. One piston had so much corrosion on it, it wouldn't retract all the way. I managed to finally wedge it all the way back... WOW. I have BRAKES again! The process was relatively easy...it just took time. I did both my calipers with both of the new kits. Lots of brakleen, lots of time and care, and a sheet of 800 grit sandpaper to remove the corrosion...and all is well again! And, I can't get the lever to hit the grip if I TRY - just like it should be! (Before, it would crush my fingers if I 2 fingered it, and go flat against the grip if I used all 4). MUUUUCCHHH better..... Part number notes for those who have this coming up? One caliper half is numbered 12230, the other 12231 (this is on both my calipers, inside the largest piston bore). And, both brakes had hand-engraved numbers on them in the same spot. The one from my '95 (VIN 1365) was 5-95-200; the one on the '96 (VIN 00248) read 5-95-102. Any guesses? |
