| Author | Message | ||
     Williamscottrobertson |
So the oil pressure sensor went out on my S1W. Easy test touch the wire to the case, if it lights up, bad switch. So anyway, I ordered a nice used one on eBay for $6. Installed it, light came on, cranked it up, light went out. Turned it off. Light stayed out. A few mins later, I go back and the light is on again with switch o. engine off. I figure the spring on the diaphragm lost its elasticity from heat. So I order another used $6 switch from a newer 08 model. Same deal, I leave the switch on, after a little over a minute the light comes back on. Long story short, I know the oil is cold, and the manual says the light may stay out after shutdown due to residual pressure but, how long is too long for it to stay out? I know I’m worrying about something that probably doesn’t matter, but if the engine can be OFF and still hold enough pressure to activate the switch, how in the hell would it alert you to loss of oil pressure while running? Maybe the vibration activates the diaphragm spring easier lol  | ||
| Ebutch |
I don't trust the light put in mechanical gauge.  | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Mechanical gauge is a good idea, but my understanding, from the Harley Sportster & Buell groups, is that the running oil pressure runs about 5PSI or less when hot, that gauge will just scare oneself. Am I correct in that information? Myself, I would prefer a gauge if it is of use. If your oil pressure is truly low, there is a spring and check valve in the screw that holds the oil filter on. This controls oil pressure and may need replacement. Could just buy a new oil pressure switch. 2003 883 XLH Oil Pressure switch OEM Part number 26554-77 $12.49 | ||
| 89rs1200 |
There is a good chance that used switch you purchased has metal flakes in it from the previous engine which destroyed itself. Therefore the light will come on intermittently when a piece of metal moves between the switch contacts. | ||
| Ebutch |
My S2 cold 40-lbs cold - hot 23-lbs | ||
| Williamscottrobertson |
Manuel says it should show 10-17psi at 2500rpm, 7-12psi at idle.   | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Thank you Ebutch & Williamscottrobertson for the information. | ||
| Falloutnl |
32 km to reach normal operating temperature? I usually keep track of the odo for about 15 or 20km before I start adding more speed. Is that too soon? | ||
| Upthemaiden |
20 miles?! I've had bikes with digital temp gauges and the oil gets up to operating temperature after a few minutes. I give it maybe 2 miles before I'm riding normally without worrying about RPMs. I'm guessing the 20 miles is saying you should always be riding at least 20 miles if you start the engine, I know they can collect condensation inside if you're doing short rides, so you want to do longer rides to make sure all of the water is out of the engine. My commute to work is about 11-12 miles, and that's the only time I get to ride anymore, so I don't know if I've ever ridden this bike 20 miles in one shot. | ||
| Falloutnl |
Right, that makes more sense. With regards to the minimal distance, I do make a point of it to take the long way to a work appointment if it's under 10 miles, just to mitigate that condensation issue as much as possible. | ||
| Ratbuell |
There's "up to normal operating temp"...then there's "hot long enough to burn off moisture". Simply heating it up and cooling it down will INCREASE the moisture content through repeated condensation. You have to run it long enough to burn/boil off the moisture. Hot water is still water; you have to burn it off. Think about how long it takes to boil a cup of water out of a pot on the stove. | ||
| Upthemaiden |
From watching the temp gauge on my old (liquid cooled) bike, the only time that temp really went higher than normal was if I was stuck sitting in traffic. I rode that bike really hard and the temp was pretty consistent as long as I was moving. I'm sure the Buell fluctuates a bit being an older air cooled motor, but I guess as far as my commute goes, the more traffic in the better it probably is for moisture in the engine. | ||
| Livers |
I'd toss any digital or analog gauge that showed me anything north of 150 degrees F in two minutes, from a cold start. Maybe a top fuel dragster? I see 180F+ as warmed up, ain't happening idling for 2 minutes. This all depends on your definition of "a few". | ||
| Upthemaiden |
"four is a few and a couple is two"... that always pops in my head from when I was a kid. But no, definitely not 2 minutes. I'd start the bike, put on my jacket, gloves, helmet, and take off and ride easy for the first couple miles. That bike would sit at 175 degrees when it was warmed up, and my general guideline was to match the rpms to the engine temp. When once it hit 130 I'd keep it at 3000rpm, once it hit 150 I'd keep it under 5000rpm, and by the time it hit 175 I'd stop paying attention. It was the OEM temp gauge that was built into the digital speedo screen, so I assume it was reasonably accurate. |
