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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through October 16, 2013 » S2, Rear axle, right spacer, gap when axle nut removed « Previous Next »

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Two_seasons
Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2013 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've noticed that my original S2 swingarm "relaxes" (spacer to swingarm gap gets wider) about 2/16 to 3/16 inches when the axle nut is totally loose.

The right spacer appears to be the correct one.

Is this normal to have that much of a gap with the spacer in place?
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Harleyelf
Posted on Thursday, September 12, 2013 - 07:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure about S2's, but when I was at the stealership as a mechanic we could order spacers for a Sportster rear wheel in all kinds of lengths.

Get a lathe operator to cut you down a block of aluminum to the correct dimensions.

1/16" is acceptable. 3x that much is not.

Watch that you do not spring the wheel out of alignment with the brake caliper.
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 11:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like an incorrect spacer to me. Mine ends up with approximately a 1/16" gap maybe less...

Could vary from unit to unit a bit, but 3/16" seems a bit much

I have it off the bike now and can measure mine if you like, but won't be til I leave the office this afternoon.

BTW: Part number is 41132-94Y
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Two_seasons
Posted on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 09:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I should have been clearer in my thread title.

This is the rear wheel right spacer.

Thanks Elf for the fast response. And KC, can you give me the length of that spacer...thanks for the part # too.
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

19.5mm Thick



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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 03:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you.
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Harleyelf
Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 03:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Quick fix: get a 1/8" thick washer with the inner diameter of the axle and an outer diameter like the spacer and put it next to the spacer, then check the brake to see that it is still centered. If it is not, put the new washer on the other side of the wheel. If that doesn't do it, get two 1/16" washers and put one on either side of the wheel.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Elf. I was thinking if only I could find a thin washer with the right ID at the hardware store. One thing I did not want to do is use dissimilar metals, such as a steel washer with the AL. Finding a thin 1" ID AL washer won't be easy!

I went over to Hal's and talked with Dave in Parts. He said that their spacers are now 3/4" ID. Something about sealed tapered bearings, then sealed ball bearings when they went to 3/4", then 25mm axle shaft with sealed ball bearings.

Hal's measured my spacer length (looks exactly like yours Kc) and it is 19.6mm, so I have the correct one.

I'm not exactly sure that the "gap" from right rear spacer to swingarm is exactly 2/16 to almost 3/16", but I can see the swingarm pulling in as I'm tightening the axle nut. Just looks like too much of a gap.

From what I gathered from Dave at Hal's, if the bearings are not set exactly to the proper depth, and are actually deeper in the hub than they should be, this will cause a wider gap as the spacer is setting in the hub more.

One other thing. When I put my finger in the pulley side to check the inner races for any nicks, I noted that the inner bearing inner race isn't the exact same diameter as the other bearing. With the exception of the taper, both should feel exactly as one inner race bearing hole...yes?

Should I see the outer bearings on both sides flush with the hub? Rotor side sticks out some from the rotor. And the pulley side is recessed some from the pulley.

I wasn't aware that the spacer rode inside the inner race. Shouldn't it ride on the outer race?

Please let me know.

(Message edited by two_seasons on September 14, 2013)

(Message edited by two_seasons on September 14, 2013)
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Harleyelf
Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 11:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Is the spacer you need to change perhaps the one inside the wheel between the bearings?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



That would be my guess too. Overtorqued at some point, crushed the internal spacer, and your bearings are sitting too close together in the wheel.

IIRC, the bearing face should be even with the face of the wheel hub. If it's recessed...it was overtorqued.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Elf and Rat:

That is what was going through my mind too. I reread this thread several times and thought about what would cause my rotor side bearing to stick out a little, while the pulley side was recessed some.

So here is what I did.

Went to American Sport Bike and ordered new wheel/hub spacer, new wheel bearings, and new flat screws for the rotor.

Got a small problem when I get them...I don't have a puller/installer. Maybe someone locally can help me. I talked with Hal's and they want 1.5 hours to do the job!
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Loki
Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

as for seating the new bearings, use the old bearing (as a go between) and tap in in evenly.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, September 16, 2013 - 11:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

NEVER tap a bearing.

Go to Lowes or home depot. Buy a foot of 1/2" threaded rod, 2 nuts, and 6 thick washers the size of the outer race or slightly larger.

Tap the old bearings out from the inside. Place the new ones and use the rod as your "axle". Put three washers on each bearing and use the nuts to pull it all tight and set the bearings.
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