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5liter
Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My turn for the front motor mount stud to break. I heard a crack and then felt something hit my leg. Broke the left side(as your on the bike) bolt. I was a couple miles from home when it happened. I don't know if I'm going to do it or have somebody else do it. Don't feel like working on anything right now.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Help "INFO" if you want it, just e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon.net) and it is yours ...
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Purpony
Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

how many miles on the bike? Im thinking of changing mine just for the hell of it!
Hope you get it back up and running soon! good luck
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5liter
Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

About 50,000 miles. I've got it in the garage right now. Going to order the parts from Al at American Sport Bike.

Buellistic. Message sent.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Monday, May 03, 2010 - 08:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am not a mechanic but I'll bet if you have a toolbox and a drill you can do it.

I watched my friend do it to my 96 S1 the first time and did it myself the second and third times. American Sport Bike has better bolts, I eventually figured that out too.

the broken stud can usually be tapped out with a punch and a hammer start on one edge and tap toward the outside in an unscrewing direction. If you have an electric drill you can sometimes excite it out with a regular bit in reverse with some pressure. an extractor process is a small pilot hole and a reverse bit that digs into the hole while the drill is in reverse.
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Kalali
Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What did hit your leg?
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Xl1200r
Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 12:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I went through this whole thing, but mine was broken when I picked the bike up. I didn't do the work myself only because the dealer I bought it from made goon (sort of) and paid for my local dealer to do the work. They were able to get the stud out with an easy-out, so it can be done. I also had them use the -79D isolator and it appears to be holding up well, though I only have a couple thousand miles on it since.
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5liter
Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kalali,
The half of the bolt that broke.
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Tbolt98
Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did mine and it wasn't as bad as I expected.
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5liter
Posted on Tuesday, May 04, 2010 - 06:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds encouraging. I'm stripping off parts right now. Got a few other things to do so I might as well do em now.
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5liter
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 05:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Something interesting. I put my breaker bar on the right isolator bolt expecting not to be able to budge it and it's unscrewing with just a little resistance. I put no heat on it at all, so I wonder if the red loctite broke down over the years. It's not broken so maybe I won't have too much trouble with the left that is broken.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"i" do not use loctite on the threads of my ISOLATOR BOLTS, only anti-size compound ...

If properly TORQUED they will stay tight !!!
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Fahren
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 07:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And yes, since loctite breaks down under heat, the years will do it. I think "Auntie Seas" (the Buellistic approach) with regular checks for tightness would be preferable.
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5liter
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Auntie Seas!! Now that's funny!
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fahren, you have been paying attention ...

"PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE" keeps you off the side of the road in the middle of no where, usually at 3 AM in the morning ...
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 09:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

anti-sieze and safety wire! Sure it takes some time to drill the bolts for wiring, and actually wiring them takes more time. Combined, it's considerably less time than getting a broken bolt out of the head : )
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