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Buell78758
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 09:00 am: |
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Hey, I am finally getting to the rebuild on my 2002 S3T. With about 12,000 miles the oil pump helical drive gear gave out, known to happen. Upgrade is using the bronze gear. Bits of the gear broke teeth off the cams, and wrecked oil pump, and I think thats it. Here is cost of parts for repair: Andrews N4 cams - $250 (e-bay, OEM is $400) Cam pinion gear - $100 (OEM) New oil pump - $80 (e-bay, dealer is about $160) Updated oil pump gear, special tool, gasket, other bits: $200 (American Sportbike) My pinion gear looks ok, but dont want to risk damage to hardened surface and have same failure again, so replacing all parts. I dont think any metal bits got escaped from cam cover area. While rare failure, I think its worth to upgrade your tuber to the better drive gear, other wise your looking at $600 min. just for new parts, not including any labor. Will keep you posted on results. Sucks because this bike was very strong running, I rode it from Austin to March Badness. Glad it did not blow 1500 miles from home! I love the bike and eager to get it going again! Moral of the story: own two tubers so you always have a back up! Christian
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Sloppy
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 02:25 pm: |
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That's the shortest lifespan I've heard of for the oil drive gear for a street bike. I took mine out at 30,000 miles and it had hardly any wear on it. What type of miles did you put on the bike? Don't forget you can retrofit to the updated XB oil pump into your XL engine for better oil scavenging. All you need do is swap the oil hose fittings. Don't forget the new SE cams either - reports are they work great across the engine range. By the way, my Buell is more reliable than my last two bikes -- a Honda and a Kawasaki! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 03:29 pm: |
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oil pump 26357-02B oil pump drive gear 26391-06 If you run you primary chain too tight, what do you think happens to the oil pump gear/penion gear drive mesh ??? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 04:52 pm: |
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Its a tolerance stackup issue, so some eat em fast, some never take a nibble. No damage to the case or cam bushings? |
Oldog
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 05:09 pm: |
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Ouch that Gear is UGLY |
Buell78758
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 06:10 pm: |
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Thanks for the updated part info....others can benefit from the info too. No case or cam bushing damage...one or two gear teeth on each cam got a small chip out of them. Hopefully it all runs good after buttoning it up! Christian |
Oldog
| Posted on Sunday, December 07, 2008 - 10:51 pm: |
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Christian I would remove that engine and flush it with oil and solvent to be sure that ALL metal particles are out, then replace the oil tank lines, and clean the tank totaly. IF any metal debris is in the crank assebly you could have the whole thing to do over + a new crank. I would be looking at all items that were fed oil by the pump. Good luck |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 12:14 am: |
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+1 on what Oldog said. Joe |
Spiderman
| Posted on Monday, December 08, 2008 - 07:39 am: |
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Here is cost of parts for repair: Andrews N4 cams - $250 (e-bay, OEM is $400) Cam pinion gear - $100 (OEM) New oil pump - $80 (e-bay, dealer is about $160) Updated oil pump gear, special tool, gasket, other bits: $200 (American Sportbike) My pinion gear looks ok, but dont want to risk damage to hardened surface and have same failure again, so replacing all parts. I dont think any metal bits got escaped from cam cover area. While rare failure, I think its worth to upgrade your tuber to the better drive gear, other wise your looking at $600 min. just for new parts, not including any labor. Why are you getting new cams? Are the showing a lot of damage? In reality all you should need is a new oil pump and drive gear and the gaskets... You won't even need a new oil pump, for half the price of a new one I was able to buy all the internals and rebuild mine for half the price. I would do a flush like Oldog said, Just in case... |
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