| Author | Message | ||
     Cyclonemduece |
ok here is the deal, i took my wheels in the a local guy and had the tires removed from my cast alloy stock M2 rims, when i came back to my surprise he removed the bearing and the tubes inside the rims, no biggie i have brand new bearings from Al. the tubes were marred (sp) on the ends (from him pounding them i out it looks like) so i got new ones, pretty cheap too i might add. so i go to re-assemble them i start with the front and i notice that one bearing slides in easy, maybe to easy, is that normal? if not what do i do? machine out the wheel and get a bigger bearing with the same i.d. ? how common is this a did a search and now im here. The other seams to have no tollerence, should they have to be pressed at a shop? i cant find my manual for the life of me HELP blake | ||
| Oldog |
The new bearings can be pushed in with the axles, nuts washers and grind down the outside of the old bearings for a slip fit. On the bearing being loose, that sounds bad. TIGHT = GOOD! tollerence on bearing bores is typicaly +/- 0.0005" 1/2 of 1 thousanth of an inch As AL has stated its important to push 'em in straight. options: weld-up machine = expensive loctite = cheap, may not work over bore and go bigger may be the cheap way out. to install, using the axle and nut. get washers larger than the bearing, you will need a big hand full take the old bearings if still intact, grind the outside down to a fall in fit on the thight bore, you need these for the first pull in, 1. slip a washer and the bearing onto the respective axle 2. slip the new spacer pipe on the axle ( control the stop depth) 3. place the bearing in the bore opposite the first new bearing to install. [Important] ON Pm rear wheels brake side there is a shoulder that locates the bearing in the wheel put your loose rear wheel bearing here and pull you 2 drive side bearings in FIRST! { I almost screwed up here ) 4.slip on you new bearings ( opposite side ) add spacers as needed, I suggest cleaning and lightly oiling the bearings and bores. 5.Tighten the axle nut slowly and watch to insure that the bearings are not getting "cocked" using one of the used bearings as a push block helps keep things straight. 6. just contacting the spacer pipe to hold it is enough be carefull not to over tighten it. pounding ball bearings is a bad idea.. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=804779#POST804779 and http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=654380#POST654380 | ||
| Jos51700 |
Pounding ball bearings isn't bad, as long as you're not transferring load through the bearing itself. Personally, I prefer to NOT try to repair a wheel with an oversize bearing bore, but it's expensive, I know. Lots of various solutions will arise shortly. Maybe you should find a different tireman? And yes, a slip fit is bad. (Message edited by jos51700 on February 05, 2008) | ||
| Oldog |
Oh on the rear wheel, make sure the first bearing is below the snap ring grove before pulling the others in to place | ||
| Oldog |
Pounding ball bearings isn't bad, as long as you're not transferring load through the bearing itself} after buying 2 sets of bearings I got educated about this hence my comment. Oh BTW I totaly agree with you on FIND ANOTHER TIRE GUY the bearings should not even have been touched... | ||
| Hughlysses |
If you want to try the Locktite route, use "Bearing and Sleeve Retainer" which is some very high strength stuff made for just this situation. It will supposedly take up a significant amount of clearance in a now loose/formerly press fit like this. Clean wheel and outer surface of bearing thoroughly before applying and follow the directions. | ||
| Buffalobolt |
I had the same issue with seemingly not enough tolerence between the wheel and bearings. I put the bare wheel in the oven @ 250 degrees for 15-20 minutes. I also put the bearings in the freezer while the wheel/oven was warming up. The new bearings slid right into place! It's worth a try... My .02, for what its worth.... | ||
| Shot_gun |
I had this happen about two years ago on a different bike. I can vouch for the loctite solution. I just used regular high strength thread loctite because that is what a had. It worked great. I'm not sure about machining your wheel. I'm sure there is a reason they made it with that much metal. Making the rim thinner in any area would make me nervous ie pot holes, wheelies ect. I the 17 years I've been riding I never took out my bearings other than to replace them. On installation I have heard of guys using all-thread, some wasers and nuts to pull both bearings in at the same time. Cheap and easy with no beating nesassary.  (Message edited by shot_gun on February 05, 2008) | ||
| Numb_nutz |
I took a punch and put six punch marks where the bearing race makes contact and a little red loctite. Had to drive the bearing in like new. Same trick we do with bearing races in old cars. | ||
| Buellistic |
Kevin(AKA Mumb_nutz): IF YOU ADJUST YOUR DRIVE BELT TOO TIGHT(FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL "WRONG") THIS WILL HAPPEN !!! E-mail me so that "i" can get you e-mail address and "i" will e-mail proper adjustment "INFO" !!! Still running ORIGINAL Rear wheel Bearings and sealed bearing can be RE-GREASED ... In BUELLing LaFayette Ljenne73c@verizon.net | ||
| Swampy |
I used the Loctite bearing and sleve retainer and it did not work. I ended up using JB Weld and it is still working. | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
the jb fix surprises me swampy i have never acheived proper adheasion with it on a sooth or even semi smooth application. i tried red locktight, ill mark the position and keep an eye on it. AND i reassembled the front wheel and put it on the new inverted showas its lookin good i will post pics of it in my m1 conversion thread soon. thanks to all blake | ||
| Timn |
I replaced all of my bearings last year. I have polished PM rims. I used a heat gun and a propane torch to heat the rim up before using a punch to drive out the old ones. I put the new bearings in the freezer overnight before the installation. I heated the rim up with the propane torch and quickly installed the frozen bearing. I used a socket the same size as the outer diameter of the bearing to "TAP" it in. You need to act fast as the heat transfers to the frozen bearing VERY quickly. On my rear rim it has 3 bearings 1 on one side 2 on the other. The side with the 2 bearings, the outer bearing did not fit tight. There was evidence that the old bearing had spun slightly. On the outer bearing I used Permatex Bearing Mount. This product takes up gaps between .005 to .020 . I rode my bike all year 2007 with out any problems with that outboard bearing. YOU MUST HAVE A VERY CLEAN SURFACES WHILE USING THIS PRODUCT. I used lacquer thinner to clean the outside of the bearing and the rim race. Good Luck Mike | ||
| Swampy |
I was real anal about cleaning the surfaces when I used both the Loctite and the JB Weld. I thought the JB weld had more body and filled better. |
