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Bsanorton
Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2020 - 03:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I've read a lot of older threads on how to best support the bike when replacing the isolators. I'm doing a X1 and S2 which look to be the easier of the models to do. Now I've hung my rear frame from a ladder or rafters and used a bottle jack under the engine to change shocks, I've had my bike on pit bull stands to change tires, but there seems to be a few ways described to do the rear/front isolators. I'm a visual person so I'm trying to figure out in my brain what the best way to support the bike, where and for what reason. When I was realigning my S2 isolator I had the rear frame supported by straps to a ladder and had a pit bull stand to lift the rear tire up while the front tire was in a chock. I eventually concluded that the rear tire didn't need to be off the ground and removed the stand. I supported the engine with a bottle jack. Not sure I was doing it right but it allowed the swing arm to align better with the frame so I could bolt the bracket back on the frame. Lastly, with the ears on the new isolators how much do i have to cut down for an S2 fitment? Thoughts?

(Message edited by bsanorton on November 18, 2020)
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2020 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You may find the answer(s) you need in the Knowledge Vault.
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Bsanorton
Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2020 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah, thanks Steve, I've been pouring through a lot it it. Just want to get the support right and also know how much do I trim off the ears on the new type of isolators
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Ebutch
Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2020 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rich use the old styale because the newer ones really once modified offer no advantage for S2.
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Bsanorton
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2020 - 08:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Ed, can I still get them, the older style? ebay?
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89rs1200
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2020 - 10:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ebutch, sorry but I must disagree.
The old style isolators will fail, even if one could find new ones. The rubber will split in half leaving just the other isolator keeping the rear wheel from hitting the inner fender.
The new style has more rubber. I have not had any failures of a new style isolators. That should be enough reason to use the new style isolators.
Of course the metal "Wing" is designed to catch the frame if the rubber failed. Because of the frame design, the S2 does not have that bit of frame to catch, OK fine.
Because of old style failures, I have installed the new style on my RS1200, S2, and S3s. The RS1200 requires slight modification, (See my other post with photos). Do not recall any modification needed for the S2.
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Screamer
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2020 - 11:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New isolators were developed with a different durometer of rubber, and the “wings/ears/snubbers” whatever you want to call them - were added to the last re-design.
The “late” isolators prior the the redesign with the snubbers - worked very well, and are ideal for the S2 models. In addition to the durometer change, it was discovered excessive length of the alignment pins, and frame spread (distance between the isolator mount surfaces), also contributed to premature isolator failure. At one point, an isolator update kit was offered with the new durometer isolator - which included two washers to shim the isolator, to counteract potential frame spread.
Quality control at the supplier was occasionally an issue also. One other interesting point (at least for me) - there was very little warranty activity (or anecdotal info) on S2 isolator failures.
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Bsanorton
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2020 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So if I have the new ones with the wings it won't interfere with the S2 frame? I have a complete set, it was going into my X1, but I think I want to do my S2 1st. I also have a new left side, need a right to complete my 2nd set that will go in to my X1
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Upthemaiden
Posted on Friday, November 20, 2020 - 01:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Everything is in the knowledge vault, but this site is less than friendly when it comes to searching for things. Mine was a little more involved because I swapped the swingarm when I replaced my isolators, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't still work the same for you to just do the isolators. I started with the bike on front and rear stands, then I hooked a ratchet strap to each side of the subframe to an eye-bolt in the ceiling. Make sure you use a separate strap on each side. If you tried to use one long strap it would let the bike rotate sideways and fall right off the front stand. Wheel chock would be a better option if you have one. To support the engine, and help with fine adjustment to line up the isolators I used the mini scissor lift(which is amazing for working on this like this if you don't have one. Mine is one of the cheap $50 ones from amazon/ebay and I love it).

I was having trouble with the holes lining up horizontally, since the lift only gave me vertical adjustment. I eventually had to loosen up the front isolator as well, and manhandle it into position a little, but eventually got there. Make sure you don't jack the bike up too high, as letting weight down with a ratchet strap is no where as smooth as lifting it up. If you start with the bike on a rear stand, you should just be able to put tension on the straps, remove the rear stand, and when you're done put the stand right back, without actually having to lift/lower the bike with the ratchet straps at all. I recently picked up an electric hoist from harbor freight(I think about $80 after the 20% coupon) that will lift 440lbs for a roofing project, but now that I'm done with it I'm looking forward to mounting it to that ceiling beam in the garage. It'll make projects like this great, once I'm about to hook it to things like the subframe and pick the bike up easily. Another option to consider if you're iffy about the ratchet straps.







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Screamer
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2020 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BSA - I can’t remember if the snubber style isolators interfere with the frame or the isolator side plates, but (if I remember correctly) they are not a bolt-in installation on an S2.
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Bsanorton
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2020 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great stuff Josh. You nailed it for me. I was wondering if I had to lift the front wheel using a stand or not, didn't think you had to. I have a good wheel chock. That scissor looks interesting is there something on top of it so it can be under the flat part of the swingarm block? I do have a bottle jack that I used when changing my shock, but was thinking of using a smaller car scissor jack. Nice point of support the rear because I have as you stated used one strap at times. Screamer the S2 has bolted on side plates for both sides which seems to me to make the job easier. I read somewhere that the wings of the isolator might interfere with the frame but 89RS1200 mentioned it might not. thanks all
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Victory
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2020 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks for pics.
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Bsanorton
Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2020 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ordered from Twin Motorcycles, they have a 15% discount going on now. So ordered a new front motor mount and rear isolators. I received my last order in 10 days hopefully they will come in the same
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