| Author | Message | ||
     Torquemonster |
Flipped the bike (2000 M2) a couple weeks ago and noticed shortly after that the rear cyl. head was a little wet with oil near the box. Rode her to the shop (pops g-rage) for an educated opinion and had to get on it while en route (damn tailgaters)-upon arrival I discovered a little more oil spattered about. Oil level was about a quart low and the engine ran as fine as ever. Pops seems to think that the flip hurried along the need for the standard Buell rocker box gasket change. Bike has 2600 miles and never a problem before this buell$hit happened. Bought the stock gasket set from HD. Searched Badweb for 411 on better gaskets, but with no luck. Is there a better gasket that I should be using instead of the stockers? Thanks in advance for any assistance. | ||
| Seth |
There is the Harley lower 1 piece METAL rocker box gasket. It's metal with an anodized type coating on both sides. The part number is 16800-84. (when you install it, the part # faces up) | ||
| Torquemonster |
Thanks, Seth. I wish I had my manual & gaskets with me. Im wondering if the metal gasket you speak of is included in the set that I bought. In my manual, they have one part number listed for the entire gasket set, and thats what I bought. | ||
| Warlizard |
Do you guys prefer the HD's or one of the aftermarkets? Mine is in need of gasket change as well, also at 2500 miles! | ||
| Torquemonster |
Im wondering 'bout that too, lizard. Hopefully, I didnt make a $50 mistake and I can be riding again by Saturday afternoon. 3 wks off of her and Im feeling like a junkie in dire need of a fix! | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The new metal rockerbox gaskets work great. As do the rubber coated versions from Cometic. Torque, if your gasket set has the 2 piece paper versions, find another dealer. He sold you an obsolete part. The paper versions are junk and WILL leak again. When installing the new set, follow the service manual torque settings or you will have problems again regardless what gasket you use. Just put the piston at TDC on the compression stroke to unload the valves and lifters and you should have no problems. Brad | ||
| Torquemonster |
Thanks, Brad. I saw on Cometic that there were rubber coated upper and lower gaskets. So I gather that the lower metal + upper paper = NO GO!!! Hopefully HD will give me more than just a crappy store credit. (Message edited by torquemonster on August 10, 2007) (Message edited by torquemonster on August 10, 2007) | ||
| Ratbuell |
The dealer should sell a metal set; all old paper gaskets superseded to the new metal stuff. If your dealer gave you paper, take it back and ask for the updated / current set. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Please, for the love of all that is good do not install the paper gaskets. You will be doing the job again in about 3500 miles if not sooner. Personally I used the Cometic gaskets and I think I'm somewhere around 11K with them and still no problems. Sometimes you have to ask for the 1200 sporty gaskets if they aren't a Buell dealer. Good Luck! | ||
| 5liter |
The dealer replaced mine with the steel ones while I was still under warranty. No leaks in close to 30,000 miles later. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Thanks all. Replaced rear gaskets last night. They were the metal ones, thank goodness. Thanks for all your suggestions. Ida been kinda screwed without yall. Another question....I noticed last night that when I apply the handbrake and rock the bike forward, I feel a little "click" as the force applied pushes the forks downward. I dont remember any noises from before the accident. Pops thinks the force of the impact may have loosened the head bearings (?) Also, where the forks come up through the triple - are those supposed to be flush, or about an 1/8 of an inch above the surface of the triple? Im taking the bike to a shop this week, but just wanted to ask the Buellers first. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you flipped it, you would be doing yourself a favor if you jacked up the front end, loosened all four fork clamps and wiggle the fork about to "relax" the tubes. I used to have to this with all of my dirtbikes as well as my X1 when I dropped it on the highway like a tool. I think the fork tubes are supposed to be flush but It won't make so much difference so long as they are the same as each other. Sometimes when you drop a bike(even off of the kickstand) the triple clamps can twist relative to each other. | ||
| Torquemonster |
Thanks Nate. Much appreciated! Ill check it as soon as I can clock outta here. As far as the "noise" goes, i believe it could be either the fork springs themselves, or where the triple installs into the neck of the frame. Guess I cant really expect a diagnosis over the net, so Im a dip$hit for askin that one! Thanks again to all you Buellers. You guys (and gals) make this the best cycle forum ever. -Travis | ||
| Bluzm2 |
if you took a hard shot, you may have cracked a ball in the head bearing. You may also have dented the race. This will cause a notchy feel when moving the bars back and forth. Might want to just replace the head bearings and races. Pretty easy job really if you have the forks off already. Brad | ||
| Smoke |
the height of the fork tubes above the top triple tree helps to quicken or slow steering and add or subtract front end weight bias. i usually run my s1 about 1/4" above the triple although with the crossroads type bars it might be a little less. the higher the fork tubes the quicker and more weighted the front is. take the weight off the front end and do like natex suggests. tim | ||
| Torquemonster |
Bluz, forks arent off, but I have the resources to help out with that. Thanks for the suggestion. Hopefully, I just need to let the springs in the forks relax. Thanks for elaborating on that, smoke. I was wondering about that. Man, If I didnt have a family Id be in Arizona taking the MMI Buell course as we speak. I swear, Id give my left "testy" to be a gainfully employed Buell Tech !!! |
