| Author | Message | ||
     Rum_runner |
could some one give me a quick run down on what i should do to my bike for winter. it'll be in a non heated garage. | ||
| Iamike |
Why? | ||
| Rum_runner |
because unless i find studded tires for it. i don't think it'll do real good in snow.  | ||
| Iamike |
No, I was just kidding. I don't do much to mine since I try to ride it once a month or so. If you do ride it make sure the salt is cleaned off. I saw one this past spring that was ridden on wet salty roads. Every piece of chrome (it was a Harley) was rusted. I put Sta-Bil in the gas, run it for awhile to get it through the system. Put a trickle charger on it every so often. Or take the battery out and store it inside but still make sure it is fully charged before you do. Also if you haven't changed your oil (both crankcase and primary) for awhile you should do that too. Winter is a good time to go through it and do the maintenance that you don't get around to while riding season is in full swing. Steerer bearings and swing-arm bearings come to mind. Some guys service their forks too. It's a good time to learn a lot about your bike just in case you have problems on the road, then you have a better idea how to fix it. | ||
| Bullseye |
Unfortunatly I'm gettin ready to do the same thing. First snow and the bike is coming apart. I plan on putting the bike on stands to take all the strain off of the suspension as well as preventing a flat spot on the tires. I plan on draining the tank after I ride it almost empty as well as running a little sta-bil before draining the carb bowl (I have an M2). While its that far apart I also intend on lubing all pivot points and servicing the engine. Also you may want to spray some fogging oil into the cylinders and reinstalling the spark plugs to keep the rings from rusting to the cylinder walls. Don't forget to lube your cables and controls. I have a bad habit of dousing my bikes with a light spray of WD40 to dissipate any water and provide a film to prevent rust. The only thing to remember is if you don't cover it it will collect ALL of the dust in the air. Another thing I like to do occasionally is wax the frame to keep dirt from sticking to it. Found that out when I got tired of long pressure washing sessions to clean the down tubes. When waxed the dirt and mud falls right off. Finally I like to remove the brake pads and compress the calipers and lube the dust boots and such to prevent the cylinder sticking. Just remember to pump the brakes before riding. It sounds like a lot of work but it pays of in familiarity with your bike and peace of mind in knowing everything is correct. | ||
| Easy_rider |
I've got a law that says that each month in Indiana will have at least one day over 50 degrees. I keep that as my excuse to not completely winterize. I do put some Stabil in the tank. I try to keep a trickle charger on it. I don't follow the guidance of changing the oil both before and after winter. It is an early spring ritual, though. I am really, really lamenting giving away my bike cover because "It'll be in the garage from now on." A lot of dust falls over the winter, even with the riding. I'm currently trying to decide if I need to by a real cover that will let the moisture vent or if an old sheet will do... | ||
| Easy_rider |
Oh yeah, There's a corollary to that law that says that most of those 50 degree days will happen when I can't get away for a ride! | ||
| Aesquire |
Sta-bil, change oil before storage ( to get the acids in used motor oil out ) clean & cover as desired. Battery tender or pull battery, bring into warm area ( basement, garage that does not usually freeze hard ) and use tender. Do NOT run it for a minute & park it again when you get a nice day, you leave water in the oil. Bad. If you get a chance to ride in December, get it up to full warm, by riding, & enjoy. | ||
| Bad_karma |
Rum_runner Check bolts, wiring, Body off cleaning, new fluids, primary chain adjust, steering head and engine/swing arm mounting inspection and a large can of semi-chrome. Drain carb and battery minder. Joe | ||
| Easy_rider |
I have read to change the oil before storage, as Aesquire notes, and then again in the spring because the oil has absorbed moisture during storage. Seems like a little waste there. Maybe I'm just a little too tight. I especially have a hard time if it's synthetic. I don't think bouncing back and forth between synth in summer and dino in winter is all that good. I decided to settle for something "in between". By the time I procrastinate a little it's easily January anyway. I guess that's really in between. It really starts becoming a trade-off between engine preservation and $$$. I feel like the dollars saved will more than pay for any future engine requirements. | ||
| Mwellm |
I totally agree with you e-rider. I think splitting the difference is a good idea. |
