| Author | Message | ||
     Gp916 |
Bought a used 2001 Buell Blast. Bike ran great...everything worked fine. About a month after buying the bike, decided to bleed the front brakes as the fluid was looking a little dirty. Drained and then replaced with new Dot4 oil. Replaced two washers on the banjo bolt. Attached hose and bottle to bleed plug at the caliper. Closed bleed plug, began pumping brake lever. Held down brake lever, opened bleed plug momentarily and let oil/air bubbles flow into bottle. Closed bleed plug, pumped brake lever, held brake lever, opened bleed plug, repeat. No matter how many times I did this I would never build any pressure in the brake. After a few day of frustration attempting this over and over, decided to buy a new master cylinder. Bought a new master cylinder from http://www.surdyke.com While waiting for the new master cylinder attempted to take apart the existing MC to see if the seals had dried up as suggested here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/575596.html?1277608417 Tips on the Snap ring pliers I had were not long enough to get the snap ring out. The rubber collar on the MC was torn in the process. For the future, Does anyone have any advice on how to get the rubber collar off w/o ripping it? Received new MC and installed it. Connected brake line at master cylinder. opened bleed plug at caliper. filled master cylinder with fluid. allowed to gravity bleed. no go. Closed bleed plug, began pumping brake lever. Held down brake lever, opened bleed plug momentarily and let oil/air bubbles flow into bottle. Closed bleed plug, pumped brake lever, held brake lever, opened bleed plug, repeat. No matter how many times I did this I would never build any pressure in the brake. Seems like I get very minimal oil flow from master cylinder outlet. Oil is clear and no particles from plunger seals. also primed brake line by opening bleed plug at caliper and filling line with fresh fluid until it ran clear and without bubbles. closed bleed plug and connected it at the master cylinder. then topped off fluid and sealed master cylinder cover by tightening the screws. then i pumped sever times to try to build pressure, it never built any pressure. i then force bleed by pressing lever in and holding while i loosen and then tighten the bleeder. little bubbles sputter out and a light drip of fluid but still no pressure. the line eventually cleared out the fluid i primed it with and the reservoir loses very minimal fluid. In the end, I can bleed my brakes, oil travels through the whole system, I just don't ever build ANY pressure. I have made sure that everything is nice and tight, so I don't think I have an air leak in the lines. Must be the MC, but it is brand new?!?!? Please help, as surdyke does not take returns/exchanges on buell parts (should have read the return policy before purchasing). I have bought part from them before with no problems. I am going to email surdyke and plead for an exchange but any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. I just got the damn bike and I can't ride,,,it's killing me!! Also, would anyone know if this rebuild kit would work on the blast? http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17190.html Thanks again | ||
| Road_thing |
Try pushing the fluid from the bleeder up to the master cylinder with a big syringe. Then crack open the banjo bolt on the MC and bleed it to let any trapped air escape. Close everything up, let it sit overnight, then bleed the MC banjo bolt again. Bet that'll fix it. rt | ||
| Terrys1980 |
I was going to say the same thing. I use a syringe from the cajun injector seasoning kit for turkeys. | ||
| V74 |
it took me over two hours to bleed the rear brake on my cyclone before i got any pressure,just keep at it, | ||
| Road_thing |
I bleed the rear brakes by taking the caliper off the swingarm (leaving the line connected) and hanging it above the MC on some kind of improvised stand. That way, any air bubbles in the line travel up towards the bleeder instead of getting trapped in a loop on the line. Be sure you put something between the pads when you do this, or the pucks can pop out of the caliper. Never mind how I know this... rt | ||
| Blake |
What RT, Terry and V84 advise. How many times did you pump the brake lever? Mistake #1 was draining the system, big mistake as it allows air into the line, caliper, master cylinder. The thing to do is as RT and Terry advise, fill from the bottom up via syringe (remove old standing brake fluid in reservoir via same syringe prior to filling), or remove standing fluid in reservoir and replace with new fluid prior to bleeding. Replenish/bleed until new clear fluid is evident filling the reservoir or exiting caliper bleed nipple as applicable. It's important to keep reservoir supplied with fluid to avoid letting any air into system. Before learning the syringe technique, which is excellent. I had the same experience as you. But pumping the lever what seemed an excessive amount over and over eventually cleared the system of air and lever pressure gradually returned. I never got the solid feel back though until applying the bottom up syringe method. Also did the hang the caliper with bleed nipple up, to get rid of the last bit of air in there. Lever has been rock solid ever since. ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) Here's a link to that bottom up syringe brake bleeding method authored by the great Dane, Doctor Henrik. (Message edited by Blake on November 16, 2011) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Another good trick is to load the brake overnight. They will feel rock hard when you first release them in the morning, but then get soft again, but not as soft as they were. Repeat 2 or 10 times over night. I think it helps get some little bubbles to make big bubbles, which are easier to get out. | ||
| Twisteduly |
I have had good luck using the reverse bleed method as well. Also, on front brakes, to get the feel I wanted - I have tapped on the brake line with a wrench up and down the length of it and feathering the brake lever to get the last of the air removed with good results. | ||
| Fasted |
i surrendered, spent $40 on a mity vac, and am now have zero problems.....same price as 1/2 hour labor at the local repair shop |
