| Author |
Message |
    
Dhoffman45
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 09:20 am: | 
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My 2001 X1 is acting up. I bought it used 5 years ago, and have put almost 30,000 miles on it since. It came with race ECM and filtercharger intake. Exhaust is stock. Last week it began to cut out occasionally while riding. Over the course of two days it progressed to spitting back through the intake. Finally it would barely pull itself in 1st gear. I put fresh gas in it and changed the plugs. Plug color looked OK.I hooked a jumper and checked codes with the engine light. It showed codes 13, 14, and 15, but they came up as historic codes , rather than current. I cleaned up battery cable connections on both ends, and cleaned the connection contacts for the inlet air temp sensor. The bike will roll over and fire with the throttle closed, but not start. Opening the throttle when cranking causes it to spit through the intake. I plan on checking fuel pressure tonight. What should I look at next? |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 10:28 am: |
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Make sure you follow you service manual. Al at American Sport Bike has them if you need one.
If you still have an active sidestand switch, check that first. Next, check your CPS or crank position sensor to ensure you don't have chaffed wires to the sensor, resulting in a short.
Another thought. Check to make sure you don't have an intermittent kill switch. This can be done by having the ignition to on, the kill switch to on, then wiggle the wire loom coming out of the right switch cluster and see if your CEL light start to cycle on and off. |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 03:02 pm: |
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Since this seems to have come about suddenly:
Grounds clean and tight is good, don't forget the braided cable between the swingarm and the battery tray. Also the main chassis ground on the frame under the left rear of the fuel tank. And bypassing the sidestand switch helps eliminate one of the usual suspects.
Has the TPS been reset lately? If not, I'd start with that. You might also check the TPS by unplugging it, and checking resistance between the R/Y and V/Y pins with a multimeter. You should get a smooth change in resistance levels as you go from closed to open throttle. It is basically a rheostat, after all.
All that being said, if the battery and batt voltage are good, get w/Al at American Sport Bike and get a new engine temp sensor. They can go wonky w/o throwing a code, cause weird issues, and will throw multiple failure codes.
Hope this helps, Dave |
Kalali
| | Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 04:09 pm: |
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I use ECMspy so I have no clue what these codes mean but if it were me I would start with figuring out what codes 13-15 are telling you. Based on my experience if the codes turn out to be totally unrelated then you may want to look into the battery and/or the ECM. Otherwise just follow the codes and go from there...
Le us know how you make out. |
Dhoffman45
| | Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2011 - 05:36 pm: |
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I don't have ECMspy, but it sounds like I should. Using my shop manual and a DVOM, I checked the inlet air temp. sensor (code 15) and the engine temp. sensor (code 14) for resistance. The innlet air temp sensor reads proper resistance, but the engine temp. sensor shows no resistance at all. Manual says to replace it. Can anyone recommend a vendor that supports this site to purchase a sensor from? My local dealer stocks nothing that doesn't fit a Harley. Does it seem like this sensor failing could be causing the performance problems that I am experiencing? |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2011 - 10:34 pm: |
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Engine temp sensor can be had at American Sport Bike. You may want to get the special socket for removal too. Makes removal/installation a breeze. |
Dhoffman45
| | Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2011 - 04:37 pm: |
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New engine temp sensor installed and bike still won't run. New sensor resistance checks good. Engine fires but won't start with throttle closed; if the throttle is partially opened when cranking, it stops firing. I keep reading about TPS resets. Is this something that I can do without ECMspy? My shop manual only mentions calibrating the TPS with the HD Scantool, which I don't have. |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2011 - 09:58 pm: |
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Are there corroded contacts on your diodes, starting circuit relay, and ignition circuit relay? If they flicker, it can cause cutting out and hard starting. For TPS resets you have to get ECMSpy and a cable to hook your laptop up to your USB port on the bike. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 04, 2011 - 09:05 pm: |
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Sounds like my 99. Recently replaced the cam sensor, and am now getting O2 (new), Batt (new), and fuel pump codes. My guess is fuel pump or injectors. |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2011 - 12:10 am: |
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Mstrfrz:
Charge your battery.
If battery is more than 7 years old, may be time to replace it.
Low voltage will cause alot of problems. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2011 - 01:47 pm: |
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Batt is new. Replaced the stator a few years ago. It better not be that again!
Resistance on the temp sensor is intermittent. I believe that's the root of our troubles. Can't find a replacement. Gonna try to fix this one to determine if that is in fact the problem. Anybody got a spare in Houston? |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 05, 2011 - 04:50 pm: |
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Regarding the temp sensor, check the wiring from the sensor to the connector that ties into the harness.
On the '99 the temp sensor is not recessed as the '00, '01, and '02 are, so that should be an easier to see if you have any wiring issues.
As Froggy has said in another post, it may be that by disconnecting the battery, it may take some start/stop cycles on the ignition before you see those errors codes clear from the ECM. |
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