| Author |
Message |
    
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Saturday, July 16, 2011 - 11:10 pm: | 
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Recently developed codes 13 (O2 sensor) and 14 (overheating). Replaced the O2 and datalogged, no change. The O2 is definitely working, but when the bike enters closed loop the voltage leans out big time, DDFI3 tries to fatten up the mixture big time (8 ms pulsewidth at idle!), but the mixture doesn't enrich beyond 0.35V, which is still too lean. Eventually kicks into open loop and runs. Does this mean that either the fuel pump is dying or the injectors are going south? Anyone else experience this before? |
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Sunday, July 17, 2011 - 11:00 pm: |
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It seems that the O2 works for a while, but after a while of riding it reads 0 volts, forcing the ECM into open loop, where it runs fine. Bad O2 harness connection? Urgh... this is really frustrating since I rely on my bike for daily transportation. |
Fahren
| | Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 10:12 am: |
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How is the bike running? Any choppiness/almost cutting out/hesitation? |
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 02:24 pm: |
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Fahren, the bike runs fine when it's cold... in fact, I've datalogged the idle and the O2 switches properly and closed loop is fine. Occasionally, I'll see that the O2 voltage drops to 0 and the ECM responds by going into open loop after richening the mixture to 200 AFV without any response from the O2. On the occasions that it idles ok, I've taken it for a spin and find that 5 minutes down the road the O2 starts acting up again and the bike eventually puts itself back into open loop. When this happens while riding, the bike runs choppy, hesitates, and definitely wants to cut out. I think it's from the mixture being very rich as the ECM tries to get the O2 to respond. The CEL light turns on after a while and the power is back as it's running in OL. It actually runs great in OL, so I don't think it's something like a bad fuel pump or injectors.
I checked for intermittent connection between the ECM pin for the O2 and the actual connector on the harness. I couldn't find anything. I've added some conduit to protect the wire itself and rerouted things to be a bit neater than the factory, ie. keep the connector off the rocker cover, etc. to no avail. Engine still has the problem. I also checked the ground pins on the ECM. The black connector has system grounds that coincide with the chassis ground, but the grey connector does not. The sensor grounds are using a different ground, for sure. |
Fahren
| | Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 02:29 pm: |
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I had similar codes, similar running. Turned out it was the battery ground to frame point - a loose ground screw. The paint on the frame at the ground point doesn't help, either. So easy to check under the seat, it's worth a look. |
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Monday, July 18, 2011 - 02:33 pm: |
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I inspected the grounds and didn't find any issues, but perhaps I'll remove the screw, file the attachment point on the frame, and use a star washer or something to help it out. I did have full continuity between the battery negative and the engine rocker cover. |
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 01:49 pm: |
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So I but the bullet and removed the battery in preparation to inspect all the grounds. The battery plate itself is the ground plane for the ECM, which is grounded on either side via 2 bolts to the frame. All of my ground connections had some white powdery (I'm guessing corrosion) crud on them. I cleaned everything, filed down all the ring lugs and the mounting points. I also added a new ground strap from the engine to the ground plane. I used one of the bosses used to mount the belt cover on the engine as the engine ground point.
I'm still in denial about this, but the bike runs fine now... better than it has before actually, and exhibits no codes at all. Thanks, Fahren! |
Terrys1980
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 02:08 pm: |
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Be sure to put some kind of grease or vasoline on the connections to prevent them from corroding again. |
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 02:23 pm: |
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Yeah, that's a necessary step, for sure. I used this red stuff I've got for battery terminals, called NPR-1 or something like that. It works quite well for preventing corrosion. I'm still in disbelief that I had a bad ground! |
Fahren
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 19, 2011 - 03:02 pm: |
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Fairly common, I think - and has surely caused big numbers of XB riders all sorts of headaches. If you are used to older carb'ed bikes, the electrical gremlins can really mess with your head by playing with the electronics in the FI system.
Dielectric grease is what I use on electrical connections. |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 06:50 am: |
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You should still replace your engine temperature sensor (DTC # 14). Especially where you live.
AmericanSportBike.com carries them and sells the socket for removal/install too. |
Mesozoic
| | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 12:03 pm: |
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Code 14 was legitimate... it was overheating from running lean in 100+ weather. I've datalogged the temps after fixing the ground issue and the sensor appears to be working fine, so not sure why I would need to replace just because I live in a climate that gets hot for 4 months in the summer? |
Fahren
| | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 12:07 pm: |
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IMO: if it ain't broke...
As you have found out, your bike has a great system of alerting you if there is trouble with a component!
(Message edited by fahren on July 21, 2011) |
Djohnk
| | Posted on Thursday, July 21, 2011 - 07:09 pm: |
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@Mesozoic: Thanks for the follow up and the good information about the battery plate being the ground for the ECM. I never considered it was the grounded that way. I just assumed it grounded through one of those wires that plugs into it.
I'm going to redo those battery plate grounds with sandpaper and dielectric grease as a preventative maintenance measure. |
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'08 XB12Ss w/codes 13,14