| Author | Message | ||
     Bluebueller |
I just pulled the rear axle out of my 99' M2, and the spacer inside was rattlin' loose, and the bearings are already bad (the reason for removing the wheel). The Axle was jammed in real tight, I had to actually tap it out with a piece of wood to cushion the hammer. the axle is still straight, I think. My question: is the spacer supposed to rattle around inside the wheel, and why was my axle so hard to get out? There was grease on the axle. And, does anyone think the wheel itself is bad? | ||
| Kdkerr2 |
Spacers will rattle around inside the hub after the axle is removed. The axle is supposed to be a slip fit. That being said, sometimes they are oversized [inspector at the factory didn't catch it, maybe]. Also water can get in the hub and cause corrosion. Your wheel should not be bad unless the bearing seats are wallered out. I'd say mike your axle and see what size it it is. If it is oversized it needs to be put on a lathe and worked down with emery cloth. Hope this sheds some light. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Sorry but the spacer shouldn't rattle. It may move up and down SLIGHTLY but it shoudn't rattle. The spacer has a coller on each end to keep it centered. It can shift out of position a little if it's loose. This usually doesn't cause problems but sometimes makes inserting the axel a bit of a pain. Once you get the bearings out and have the spacer in your hand, you'll see what I mean. There should be very little side to side (toward the left side and right side) movment. If there is that means your bearings are not seated correctly or there is excessive bearing wear. Enough to let the inner race move side to side. That's not a good thing. When the bearings are in the correct position in the wheel, the spacer should be tight against both the left and right inner bearing race. When you tighten the axel, you want the load to be transmitted directly to the spacer, you don't want the inner races pulled inward and putting excessive side loading on the ball bearings. If the axel has been over torqued, the inner spacer can get crushed a bit. They are not steel, only aluminum. The reason the axel was tight is due to corrosion. Now that the axel is out, clean it up with a green Scotch Brite pad. When reassembling, use a bit of grease on the axel. Closely inspect both ends of the spacer when you get the bearings out. Make sure that there is no "crunching" at the ends. Since your bearing is already known to be bad, check that end closely. The inner race may have messed up that end. A new spacer is pretty cheap compared to hosing up a new set of bearings. Just out of curiosity, which bearing was bad? The one on the left or one or both on the pulley side? Brad | ||
| Bluebueller |
Brad - pulley side was bad, the outer one. in 2000 I had a bad bearing, and the dealer installed new ones under warranty. other than that, I had the rims off twice to replace tires from a local mechanic. who knows what has happened in those episodes, which is why I decided to start doing this myself. I ordered a new spacer and new bearings from Al at american sportbike, and just going to install new all around. As far as the axle, what is the best grease to use? the manual calls for loctite antiseize, but allthe local parts store has is different kinds of bearing grease and some marine bearing grease (waterproof blue stuff) finally, is it best to have a dealer install the whole assembly? they have proper tools for this job, better than a hammer and a blow torch, no? | ||
| Buell_bert |
Hey just my 2 cents but use a anti-seize compound (it is not grease) because you have dissimilar metals (aluminum and steel) they can corrode and bond together. And just ask any parts store for it they will have an anti-seize product. A lot of different companies make it. It comes in tubes or a can. I bought a can years ago and am still using it. Plus water will not wash it off, you need soap and water to do that. Also you shouldn't need a blowtorch. Good luck. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I usually use a synthetic grease, my axels don't stay in long enough to corode!  Anti-sieze is probably the way to go if you don't change tires yearly. If you don't have the proper tools and knowhow, you can damage the bearings and or wheels during removal and reinstallation. (Message edited by bluzm2 on July 13, 2010) | ||
| Bluebueller |
finally had time to get the bearings out today. the outer two came out nicely. the inner bearing was a bull. had to heat the wheel and some penatrating spray, finally got it out. I noticed a raised lip, or almost a groove where the inner and outer wheel bearing meat inside the wheel. has any one seen this before. I imagine that the inside should be smooth, as the groove was definately not machined. anyway, cleaned it all out real good, and warmed the wheel again, and the bearings almost dropped right in, problem is they didn't really ever seat properly, even after the wheel cooled slightly. I pulled them back out and now I'm stumped. I got my bearings from american sportbike, the two pulley side he sent were Koyo's and the brake side was a Jax, and they are the same size and the old ones. any help or suggestions would be appreciated. | ||
| V74 |
had the same problem, the bearings moved in their housing, i had to have the wheel machined and a steel sleeve pressed in to seat the bearings, cost me £50 plus new bearings, got the idea from off here,someone else(cant remember who but a search should find him)had this problem and he even put pics on here of the sleeve installed, | ||
| Rays |
This is the one. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/372366.html?1217858916 | ||
| Bluebueller |
the local machine guy wants over $100 bucks to do this job. fortunately just found some brand new from dealer wheels, and he's got plenty, on ebay. |
