| Author | Message | ||
     Jst |
You're a huge help Don! Now if Santa would only bring me my own Parts manual. Thanks and Merry Christmas! JT | ||
| Court |
Looks like if you have the 48315-60 that you are GOOD TO GO ! This is from the M2 Parts manual for 2000, which covers the 1999 (a year for which there was no parts manual).   | ||
| Court |
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| Jst |
Thanks guys, The build up is going great. I can't believe the local HD only stealer charged me $4.00 ea. for those races! I guess they knew they had me by the short n curlies. Em should be off her belly today. Fingers crossed. JT | ||
| Jsunstar |
anyone have any idea if a s1 front end will fit an evo sportster??? any help is appreciated. thanks | ||
| Jst |
I'm down to the details on the rebuild now. Unfortunately my fat fingers dropped the set screw for the steering lock. Anybody have any idea what size this little bugger is? Jsunstar, I've seen S1 front ends on Sportster based customs with no machine work. The bearings and the races are the same. It stands to reason that it "should" bolt up to the current frame. JT | ||
| Rempss |
Jst, I don't know the size. When I did the same, I bought a new one that had a plastic tip on it. It was not a pointed tip, it was hollow with the plastic attached to the end. Jeff | ||
| Johnc |
Here's what my steering head bearings looked like after 2 years, 15000 km. I thought I,d get away with re-packing but I'll have to replace them. It would have been so easy to design a seal for this on the drawing board. My bike is always stored indoor and almost never ridden in the rain.   | ||
| Bomber |
YIKES! those pics make me want to drop my trees and check the bearings . . . .sheesh, pretty ugly | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Busy weekend for the Bluz guy.. After getting my M2 back from the dealer (rear shock replaced under warranty/recall) it was time to finish the spring "get the bike ready for the season" garage session. On the to do list was: 1. Replace left fork seal 2. Install new 1kg fork springs 3. Replace head bearings top and bottom. 4. Replace rear rockerbox cover with Blast version (front was done last fall). No problems with any of the tasks, just alot of dinking around. The fork seal needed a special tool to drive it into the fork leg. I used a 6" piece of 1 1/2 PVC slitted down the side. Before slitting, I chamfered the inside edge so as not to damage the new seal lip. Just slid the new seal in place then slid the PVC "tool" down close to the seal. After starting the seal by hand I cinched a hose clamp around the PVC to keep it from sliding up the fork tube then tapped the seal in place by using the fork tube/PVC like a slide hammer. The fork bearings surfaces were a bit worn, they will need replacing next time around. I was suprised at how dirty the fork oil was. Even the right leg was pretty dirty. I replaced the right seal last year, maybe 4K miles ago. I refilled the forks with 7W BelRay. Might be a bit heavy but I'll just go lighter on the dampening setting. The new springs were no problem, just pull out the old ones (they were out anyway to change fork oil). Only thing that's not "plug and play" is the spacers. Traxxion sends a spacer blank that needs to be cut to length. After following their instructions the new spacer was about 1.25 inches long. Just cut them with a large pipe cutter and clean up the edges. I decided to give the sealed head bearings a shot. (Thanks for the info JohnC aka. V2win) I picked them up at a local bearing supply house. As mentioned in an earlier post here's the part numbers. Timkin # L44600LA-902A1 This is the inner cone" bearing part. Timkin # L44610 This is the outer bearing race. Timkin # L44643 Standard inner cone non-sealed varity (Just in case anyone was wondering...) The outer race was about $3.00 each, the inner bearing with seals was about $16.00 each. The non sealed type bearings were around $6.00 if memory serves. No problems removing or installing the races, just used a long punch to tap out the old ones and then used the threaded rod and wood block "tool" to pull the new races in flush. I then used the old race and light taps all the way around to seat the new race. The old race will stick in the steering stem but a couple of light taps on the exposed lip takes care of that problem. The new sealed type bearings have a bit more friction than the open style. I haven't really noticed it when everything was reassembled. If I was to do it again, I would use the open style on the top and the sealed unit on the bottom. The old bearings were worn but too terribly bad. The bottom was the worst of course. They were just starting to feel notchy. You could feel it when the lower bearing was removed and rotated back and forth by hand. I didn't feel it when they were on the bike. All in all the stockers held up pretty well after 19,500 miles and more than a few wheelies. A fair amount of wet weather miles also. Tonight I finish up by setting sag and preload on both ends. Bring on the warm weather!!!! Brad | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Quick update on the head bearings. After a couple of rides, I notice no difference between the stock "open" bearings and the sealed units. I don't see any reason not to use them, especially on the lower bearing. A worthwhile project. Obviously YMMV, IMHO, etc. etc..... Brad | ||
| Joplin |
 Heya out there,,,I wonder if someone more experienced than I (not hard to do) can give me some advice on a S2 that has been rebuilt and has a little ding in the frame. I wonder if this is cause for concern or not. I NEEEeeeEEEd to get a ride thats running and this bike looks good but has a little character so to say, but i think is mechanically sound AND it is in my $$range. I had a '8? XLH i fixed up but had to sell and rode my beemer into the ground and am not looking at anything but Buells now. But alas am a poor boy for now but in 4-5 years (after i get thru FF academy) will be doing better ,,,but who can wait....ANyhow see pic and any help would be greatly appreciated,,,,JM | ||
| Blake |
That frame is not operational. To use it as is would be to risk catastrophe. | ||
| Joplin |
Thanks blake,,,I also posted in quick board and got the very same expert opinions,,,thanks,,prob saved my ass,,,and i like my ass the way it is,,,,JM | ||
| Prior |
According to the description on eBay, my guess would be that is started out as a salvage and was rebuilt. Sounds like it was wrecked, stripped of parts, and this guy put it back together and is trying to sell it. | ||
| Drwend1 |
Does anybody know of a manufacturer of frame sliders for a 2002 M2? | ||
| Blake |
Drwend1, Our sponsor American Sport Bike sells them.  | ||
| Blake |
Well maybe not. I thought they did. Give them a call. Might have been someone else. Maybe Iowa HD/Buell (Buell Cycle Center)? | ||
| Jsunstar |
the buell front end fits the sportster and looks MEAN!!!! i have to remove the lock tang and make some sort of stops, the bars hit the tank... i figured id use a dampener and be careful for now. anyone know if they make some sort of stops i can use? thanks jh | ||
| Bomber |
Drwend1, Dave at Iowa definately has them . . . . . they're great (although I've not tested them yet) . . . you may think the price is a little high, but when you see the quality of the work and materials, I think you'll be surprised . . . .they're really outstanding pieces | ||
| Sgtbuell |
Anyone tell me how much it would cost to disassemble my bike so I can have the frame painted. I already got my question answered on how much it would cost to powder coat the frame on this site, but was not specific that I do not myself have the knowledge nor a garage to disassemble my M2. Thanx | ||
| Ccryder |
Has anyone seen this sort of break on their front motor mount?  Neil S. | ||
| Jprovo |
Yep | ||
| Jeffb |
http://www.sscycle.com/features/Volume6/PT%20Vol%206%20No%204.pdf Follow this link and scroll down. S&S offers a billet mount that takes care of this. Jeff edited by jeffb on July 03, 2003 | ||
| Ccryder |
Well I have been fortunate since my extended warranty will cover the repair of the front motor mount and it's discrepant bolt. That was very good news in light of ~$2k worth of work done on Passion. Neil S. | ||
| Ccryder |
More good news on Stripe'r. The Ace Technicians at Bud's were able to extract the broken bolt without pulling the head! So the latest is she should be back together for return home today or tomorrow. Rall, I guess this means I have to clean up my mess from Passion's engine's R&R&R. Oh darn and I thought I'd be able to break her in b4 I had to do my domestic chores  . Later Neil S. | ||
| Josh_ |
Cool! Hey Mariabelen is heading out for the weekend, come on over and we can break it in proper! | ||
| Bbuell |
Does anyone know what the frame diameter is on a 2000 m2? | ||
| Hans |
Bbuell: Measured frame diameter 2000 M2 is 28.85 mm. And my converter says 28.85 mm = 1.136 inch. That is, of course, inclusive two times the paint layer. So the clean pipe is maybe 1 1/8 inch (=1.125 inch) ? Hans | ||
| Udholmdk |
hey all buellers. I am doing a complete remake of my Buell S1 Lightning from 1998,with carbon fibre bodywork,Machesini 5 spoke racing wheels, Brembo brakes, repainting the lot, and adding a huge amount of parts from A.S.B. So far, so good. But need ONE more thing to get it right. I Want an Öhlin steering damper, but mounted the Ducati 916 style. Can anyone please help me what to do, I cant get any help here in Denmark.. Keep smiling Udholmdk from Denmark ( will post pics in march ) | ||
| Henrik |
Hi Jan Sounds like a nice project. I haven't seen a steering damper mounted cross-wise on any Buells. You'd likely need to fabricate brackets yourself to mount it. With that in mind it might actually be easier to mount a Scott rotary damper - using a bracket that would replace the handlebar top clamp. That SV650 one might even work?? Then all you'd need would be a tower/bracket mounted to the frame above the tank. Just a thought. Henrik (nice to see another Dane here ) | ||
| Steveford |
I'm putting a L/H frame brace on my "new" '98 S3 and am writing to see if anyone has any feedback on the Banke and American Sportbike bolt on braces? I'm also going to put on the Buell cooling fan and it looks as if the Banke brace may be in the way of the fan mounting points. Thank you in advance, Steve Ford | ||
| Al_lighton |
Well, Steve, you might say I'm biased, BUT... I put an American Sport Bike brace on my 98 S1W long before I bought American Sport Bike the company. I chose the American Sport Bike brace (unpolished) because I thought it looked nicer and was a little less "in the way". I then had it powdercoated to match the frame, so it's fairly inconspicuous. One advantage of the American Sport Bike frame brace over the Banke that only recently became obvious for me: I put a Penske shock on my S1W recently, and it was easier to attach the remote reservoir to the American Sport Bike brace than it would have been to the Banke. Both of them brace adequately. There's a lot of bikes running round out there happily with no brace at all... But I like mine. | ||
| Josh_ |
The American Sport Bike brace looks even nicer coated to match.  | ||
| S2pengy |
Aaron Wilson makes some beautiful front engine mounts... | ||
| Steveford |
Al, If I must, I must. Look for an order next week. That looks great on Josh's bike. While I think of it, I put the Buell race exhaust on my X1W yesterday and that mounting system is obviously the work of a disgruntled employee. You're developing some different mounts for that? | ||
| Ara |
I'm with Josh and Al. The American Sport Bike frame brace is a real quality product - excellent design and construction, works marveously, and installs easily. I bought the polished one and it remains so. | ||
| Steveford |
If your old tuber is buzzing, this might be of interest. I just installed the main S3T saddlebag mount (thank you, Henrik for the parts and Jack Stoner for the idea) and it really cut down on the vibration transmitted to the rider on my '98 S3. Now I just need the saddlebags. | ||
| Jon6516 |
OK so I'm looking for a frame guy. In or close to Kenosha Wi. I have both a Sportster and a X1 that need work. | ||
| Bud |
I was looking through my manual, for how much Nm the steering head bearings should be fastened, and I read 55 Nm ( 40 ftlbs ), Now in my opinion that’s a bit much for, as far as I can see, a pair off deep groove single row bearing with out a spacer busing , I know it depends a on what kinda thread / screw your pulling the preload on, But single row bearings would not be to keen on a big preload with out a spacer. Just me wondering, as i know for sure there were some clever minds @ BMC who have thought it trough Gr,B edit// for got to tell it's about the xb edited by bud on May 09, 2004 | ||
| Andys |
That's fine. On Buells the top nut sets the preload on the neck, whereas om Jap bikes there's a separate nut which sets the preload. After tightening the nut, get the front end off the ground and make sure the steering assembly "flops" to the side with a small push. It should "flop" with the same ease in both directions (although sometimes the throttle cables have a habit of holding the steering assembly from moving to the right a bit). | ||
| Smadd |
Also... after you've set it according to Andy's advice... recheck it after "several" miles. The bearings might "settle in" quite a bit... as perhaps they weren't "driven home" and tightened quite as much as you thought. One of the "pluses" of doing your own maintenance. You can pretty much bet the shop mechanic isn't going to ride it for 50-100 miles then go to the trouble of rechecking. For one thing, the labor cost would have to be even higher. Steve edited by smadd on May 10, 2004 | ||
| Renter |
Hi all, Being bitten by the anodizing bug i plan have my triple trees black anodized. For this i need to press out the steering shaft from the lower tree. Like to have confirmation if anyone here did that before. Should be possible but sometimes the fit is so tight if it is intended as one time only fit so that even with mild heat applied to alu the fitting might be damaged during extraction process. I am always a bit cautious with steel alu press fits. So in short i am willing to try but like to know if its been done before. Thx, Renter | ||
| Bobpaul |
Renter, have not removed the shaft, but I just finished removing the lower bearing. It took a good bit of heating with a propane torch and then tapping the end of the shaft against a block of wood and the lower cone slowly came off. I was worried about tapping the shaft becasue I thought the lowere tree might start walking off too, but it didn't move at all. So, I'd agree it's on there really tight. Seems like hearing the aluminum part to about 400F might allow much easier removal. Maybe the best way is to dip it in heated oil.... on second thought I'd keep the temp under 350F with oil. Good Luck! | ||
| Bbd |
on my tuber i have replaced the top tie bar for an ally XB one;what is the xb top mount like, judging by a photo of a bare frame the tie bar attatches to the top mount somewere to the left of the rear pot,whats it made of and can it be altered to take a bolt in the same place as on a tuber? | ||
| Dudeman |
Hey folks - newbie here. Call me crazy, but I'm thinking of converting a 99 x1 into a dual sport bike... I have a couple questions for starters: -has anyone replaced front forks with longer travel ones? and if so which brand? -how standard is the frame neck? can I drop in other triple tree shafts? -what's up with the handlebar clamps on the x1? Cheers! | ||
| Road_thing  |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/4062/92675.html?1105634631 | ||
| Kdkerr2  |
That's not so crazy. I thought of it also. They say great minds think alike. Seriously, though, the best way to go would be to put a Kawasaki KLR650 front end on it and then bolt up some KLR650 rear shocks [Ohlins or White Brothers might be better],put some knobby tires on it and have at it. You might want to install some GIVI saddlebags if you're really serious so you can haul all your camping gear. The custom made triple tree for the KLR front end would be the hardest part of the whole project. Bear in mind that your dual sport Buell is never going to be as agile out in the bush as a real KLR. I have seen Sportsters that were converted to duel sports and they usually looked pretty neat. KK | ||
| Bomber  |
I'm not sure I'd trust an XB series frame in the dirt -- not knocking it in any way, but it isn't designed for jumping, and dirt bikes go down much more frequently than street bikes do -- just a thought | ||
| Dudeman |
That supermoto bike is nice, but that's a totally new frame from what I gather. I've been looking at dyno curves of big dual sports like the bmw 1150 gs adventure. Their torque curves are very similar to those of buells. The chassis dimensions are similar, too. The main differences are in the travel of front and rear suspensions. I'm not looking to jump and do dirt stunts, but I'd love to travel the transamerica trail this way. From what I've dug up so far on front ends, looks like I could use the x1 triple clamps with some Honda shocks/wheels. Several cr250/500 front ends use inverted forks with 54mm outer sliders. |
