| Author | Message | ||
     clay dart (Supermod) |
Aaron My first try @ pics -Clay #78 in Billy VukovichIII in 1990 @ Madera  | ||
| clay dart (Supermod) |
Says that yhe pic was too large. How do i crop or change the color depth? Clay | ||
| Idzerda (Hans) |
Clay, For resizing two very easy and free programs: Xat.com: http://www.xat.com/ Irfanvieuw: http://www.thirdroad.com/369photos/irfanview_tutorial.htm http://stud1.tuwien.ac.at/~e9227474/english.htm Hans | ||
| BILLY LONG (Billybuell) |
i am looking for replacement air filter for my 2000 x-1, i want to remove the ugly, huge air box.i have allready replaced pipe with v and h am happy with performance and sound, but that ugly black monster on both sides of my tank is got to go. any thing work with the injection? help! bill | ||
| clay dart (Supermod) |
Hans- Thanks for the links. I loaded xat-Works great. Clay  | ||
| clay dart (Supermod) |
Aaron- Thanks to Hans, found the compression program. The cars weigh 2000 lb( they are forever changing the rules) , 89-91In wb, 86in wide, 2800sq in wing, cant remember on nose wing size, 68% lh wt, 450 small block or 488 bb . methanol, injected. Make from 675(410) to 430 (450) hp. Rick Veenstra is theonly one winning w/bb power. He is from the Boise area- super nice folks. Ill send some more pics. Like your picture of the vette- Bet it was ffun to set up for right and left turn tracks- Never tried it, as we had a 1/3 mi oval 1/2 mile from home. Ah well, there went that retirement account, at least its legal. racing sure is fun. I didnt mention we had 2 cars, my wife took over the limited after i went to supers. $ speed trans in SCCA car? What rear suspension?Clay  | ||
| Bryan T Nill (Loki) |
Just a thought here on breathing. In all reality as compared to the stock M2 airbox. The Force set-up really just has a shorter stack. Then with the Force not being boxed and with a larger less restrictive filter. Wouldn't the scale tip in the Forces direction? Although it will be alot noisier. loki | ||
| clay dart (Supermod) |
Sorry,folks. Was having so much fun w/ xat, posted to wrong thread. Clay | ||
| Richard Weiss (Rickway) |
Any recommended carburation mods to my very stock '99 M2 to smooth it out? I want to keep the stock exhaust and air box. A K&N air filter a help? Rickway20@yahoo.com | ||
| Jasonl (Jasonl) |
Check out http://www.americanthunderbikes.com They have a how-to on carb mods. Check out the tech section or you could scroll up. I think BarneyFife or Blake have thoughtfully provided the mods at the top. | ||
| Art Farrand (Artful) |
I live in Tucson, AZ and would like to install an oil cooler for the boiling summer heat. I am looking at Jagg with the thermostat and would really like to have a gauge also, any recommendations? thoughts? etc... Thanks, Art..... | ||
| Jim Armstrong (Jima4media) |
Art, Harley sells the Jagg for the Sportster in its catalog. Buy that one from any Harley dealer. Buy a digital meat thermometer from a restaurant supply place and tie-wrap it to your frame or engine somewhere, preferrably by the back cylinder. Buell is also selling a fan kit that is shown it the latest Road Ahead, BRAG newsletter, for $199.00, for the S3 and X-1 models. I don't have the part # in front of me, but maybe someone else could supply it. Jim X-2.5 | ||
| Arvel L. Williams (S2no1) |
Art, Check with TAT on the Oil Filter adapter cooler(forgot the correct name). Look really nice. Also, go with the longer filter and synthetic. It helps here in El Paso. Arvel | ||
| LeeM2 (Leeaw) |
Just a quick question about these carb mods, and pardon my ignorance, but I am really enjoying it. I got my carb off to find I have a 42 pilot, which I thought would be the case, and I got the Sportster needle and a 45 pilot. I was told by the dealer that I did not have worry about the main. It turns out the main is a 200. Here are my questions: 1) Considering my top end feels strong, should I leave it? 2) Would the idle mixture screw plug be the gooped over plug on the back of the carb under the butterfly? 3) I put in the 88 Sportster needle, but do I have to drill out the center of the slide with a 1/8" bit? Flame me if you must, but remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question. Lee 99 M2 | ||
| Aaron Wilson (Aaron) |
Lee: 1) The main and the needle work together, don't assume that the NOKK and N65C want the same main jet. And jetting has a BIG effect on power. Take it to the dyno and start inching that main down and watch what happens. My '99 M2 made max power with a 185 when I was using the CV. My S2 likes a 180. But I'm at 5300 feet. Going up ONE jet size costs 3-4hp on either of these bikes. 2) Not normally gooped over, it generally has an aluminum plug that you drill through (pull back when it breaks through) and then use a sheet metal screw to extract. 3) I'm not at all sure drilling that hole does anything. I know the theory, let the slide rise faster, but I'm not sure that's a good thing. AW | ||
| Jerome Chappellaz (Jerome) |
Lee : I enclose here a very classic diagram showing the effectiveness of the different carb parts depending on the throttle opening. As you can see on this diagram, the main jet has an effect essentially between 3/4 and wide open throttle (WOT). Indeed, you could run your Buell at 1/4 or 1/2 throttle without ANY main jet, this would not affect the behaviour of your bike !!!  As you may have seen on posts above, I've an air/fuel ratio gauge on my Cyclone allowing to tune the carb pretty efficiently. Right now, I'm still making tests. Yesterday, I've decreased again the main jet from 185 to 180, and at the end to 175 (OEM is 195 on my Buell) ! I can tell you that my Cyclone behaved very well at WOT with the 185, and far better than with the OEM 195. Still, with the 175, I get again a surge of power ! And my air/fuel ratio gauge tells me that I'm still on the slightly rich side, which is what is desired for max power at WOT. By the way, I live at 700 feet elevation. My Cyclone has a Force-replica air cleaner and a SuperTrapp muffler with 15 disks. Be careful, the hole you should drill for faster slide response to throttle opening is NOT the central hole ! That hole is the hole for the slide ! The hole you should drill is the one on the manifold side of the slide. | ||
| LeeM2 (Leeaw) |
I am close to sea level living near White Plains, NY. I meant to say the off-center hole next to the slide. I am assuming that the idle mixture screw is the brass screw on the back of the float bowl. Mine is not covered, but I think that was from when I complained about pinging when I first got the bike. I have to dig out my manual, but thanks for the help. I just hope I get it dialed in right for spring. | ||
| BigHairyRalph (Ralph) |
Jerome, thanks for the chart, not to mention all the other information. I'm printing it out right now. Lee, are you sure that's not the bowl drain screw? The idle mixture screw is not in the bowl but in the body behind that. | ||
| Jerome Chappellaz (Jerome) |
Carburetion principle : I've just found a pretty good url about CV (constant velocity) carbs such as the one equipping our beloved carb Buells. It explains some of the basics behind this type of carb and it tells you why racers and bike owners looking for max horsepower usually go for a slide carb such as the Mikuni HSR42. the secrets of CV carbs | ||
| jeff adamson (Paisan) |
does anyone know of a website that has an illustration of the CV carb, labeling all parts, and telling what each is supposed to do? | ||
| Jerome Chappellaz (Jerome) |
Jeff : you can already give a try at these two urls : CV carb modifications from Nightrider CV40 Keihin carb description for Kawk KLR650 Otherwise, just buy the Buell service manual. There are nice drawings of the carb, at different throttle opening. | ||
| Jerome Chappellaz (Jerome) |
Idle mixture screw from Creative Cycle Products, equipped with a knurled knob on the end : does anyone know what's the difference between the CP005 and CP006 screws ? Which one should be ordered for the Keihin CV40 carb on Buells ? | ||
| Henrik (Henrik) |
Jerome: If you'll email me their phone #, I'll be happy to give them a call for you. Henrik | ||
| LeeM2 (Leeaw) |
Jerome, thanks for the carb link. That is just what I was looking for. So far, except for not being able to get the front rotor carrier off, I have learned that most of this stuff is fairly straightforward and fun. Lee | ||
| Jerome Chappellaz (Jerome) |
Thanks a bunch, Henrik. Their phone number is 1.800.368.6217 Toll Free and 1.520.750.8884 Tech Line. Toll free unfortunately doesn't work from overseas... They are in Tucson, Arizona. | ||
| Stuart Mungomery (Wet4uracing) |
can anyone tell me the site that had a shop doing twin carb (separate manifolds)conversions on a m2 going from 82 hp to 113 hp with no other mods . or does any body know manifold specs to do the same thanks aussie stu | ||
| Aaron Wilson (Aaron) |
Stuart: While I have never heard of the site or project you mention, there's a similar project described on this site. It's a dual carb S2 development. They made over 120hp but there are lots of other mods involved, including monster cams and Shumaker/Roland heads. Mike Roland had this bike at Homecoming, he won the dyno shoot-out there. Didn't show 120hp but the dyno was reading low for everyone. See ya, AW | ||
| Stuart Mungomery (Wet4uracing) |
hey ho. I finally found that twin carb site I was after. Thanks for your response. The site is REALLY worth looking at. @http://www.visi.com/%7Emoperserv/index.htm I hope thats right and thanks again. Aussie stu. | ||
| Stuart Mungomery (Wet4uracing) |
Aaron, I didnt realise we were on the same site. I dont think my link worked properly.So best to use yours.Thanks,Stu. | ||
| jc (Troop) |
Gonna re-jet my 2000 M2 soon. Gonna do the #45 slow/1988xl needle/air screw out 2 turns. I am having a hard time finding a .009 washer to shim my needle. I can find a .002(x4)=.008 or .005(x2)=.010. Just what kind of diff does a .009 shim make with the needle ? As far as elevation,I live in Wisc so not much. Not sure if I should stack to get close as .008 and .010 are real close. .009 is awful thin !! Any input as to the gains of .009 shim ? Will have V&H pipe and gutted breadbox with K&N filter. Thanks | ||
| Peter Moltmann (Peter) |
jc, Have a look at the difference in the slots on an adjustable needle. Way more than 8-10 thou. I think he just used that thickness because he had some handy. I'd bet you can't notice the difference between 2 thou in any sort of testing. PPiA | ||
| Mark Schroeder (Marks3tbillet) |
Has anyone used the Race ECM with everything else stock? Will it run ok? I am unsure of what air cleaner and muffler I am going to change to and was thinking about buying the Race ECM now. Any help is appreciated. | ||
| Bryan T Nill (Loki) |
Goodbye breadbox, HELLO Force-winder! Got a couple short hops with it on. Sunday is the day for a long test ride. Not quite as noist as I thought it would be. Putting pods on the ol kawa let you know they were there. Get on the juice with the M2 and you can here it start to succcckkkk! now where did I put the new exhaust? Does the M2 look different without the big ugly airbox. loki | ||
| Andrew Mellors (Revfry) |
Loki, Where'd you grab the ForceWinder? I saw their ad in Battle2Win.. but their site is down. =/ I want to grab that, if it's any good, and I need to rejet my carb. Rev | ||
| Bryan T Nill (Loki) |
Rev, Orlando Buell had one hangin around the other day. Force Motor Products can now be found at: www.forcemotorproducts.com email at: fmp@redrivernet.com I believe they changed thier url to the above recently. This one will work. My opinion of it so far: on a 1 to 10 scale, a 10! The installation is very straight forward and uncomplicated. Just make sure you have a 'ball' hex driver key. Riding impression? You will feel some more heat from the header and such. The stock airbox makes an excellent heat shield. Nothing to drastic though. The motor seems to pull better, this without rejetting the carb(as of yet) and the stock muffler. They have two versions on the market. The original is the one I have. The second does away with the extra filter(for the head vent lines) and plumbs it into the K&N filter. You can order it either polished or powder coated(in black or white). phone # for them is 520-453-7182, check out the web site though. They don't just sell thier own products now. loki | ||
| Andrew Mellors (Revfry) |
Loki, Cool, I've got my Vance & Hines pipe on now and I'm pretty interested in this new airbox. Thanks again. Rev '00 M2 | ||
| Andrew Mellors (Revfry) |
Loki, Odd, The ad I saw shows something called a RaceWinder Ram Air.. a carbon fiber box that goes around the ForceAir.. but I don't see it on the site. =/ Guess I gotta call Rev | ||
| Philip A. Brewer (Fastback69) |
On the topic of breathers, does anyone know if there are breather bolts (banjo style or otherwise) that have AN style threaded outlets? I know that the Force XR2 intake comes with -6 An banjo bolts, but I don't think that they sell them seperately. I have also heard that the quality of the Force intake and breather bolts is less than expected from several people on the ATC forum. Anyone care to comment here about the Force? | ||
| Bryan T Nill (Loki) |
Rev, I know they have the CF cover for the winder. It was imparted upon me that the CF alone was somewhere near $200.00. I like the look of the big 'ol K&N hanging there anyway. It just looks mean....The write-up I saw was from a trade paper/mag my dealer had. Fastback, I took one look at the breather bolt that comes with the kit and set it aside. I just used the stock bolts with the two short 90 degree hoses from the stock airbox from my M2. I am looking into wether I can drill out and tap the stock ones to take an AN adapter and build my own lines. just need to figure out where to mount the puke can. Quality of the intake? I can find no defects with mine. My only gripe is what I got for the 2 c-notes I parted with. Then again K&N filters are not cheap to start with.....The polish job? Not much worry here, the eventual plan is to have it powder coated. NOTE: to anyone installing a Force set-up, make sure you have a ball end hex key driver. The upper forward bolt on the flange will require it. Or, a seriously shortened normal hex key. loki | ||
| Henrik (Henrik) |
Jerome: thanks for the Air/Fuel gauge information. As far as I understand, since you're running your sensor relatively close to the rear exhaust port, you don't need a heated sensor. I will be installing the sensor on a '96 S2, probably the race headers. Would there be any advantage to installing a heated sensor (since it will be further from the exhaust ports) in the collector: the sensor could be reading an average ratio for the two cylinders, rather than just the rear? |
