| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
Neil: The slides are not diffrent in the aluminum portion. Only the plastic button on the top is different. The 44 is recessed in order to allow the slide to come up higher and open the bore fully. | ||
| Jmartz |
DN: If your motor is running lean in thin air it might just get leaner in thicker air. I your bike is stock or slightly modified put on a 45 slow and a 190 main and that should be a good ballpark place to begin. Leaness can also be caused by manifold leaks. | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
No manifold and the bike runs really well actually. I've been told though that the gas mileage I'm getting on long rides @ 65 (75+mpg) indicates I have a lean condition. Since I'm bringing the bike to MITM and plan on doing some riding I just want to make sure I ain't gonna burn the thing up.  Thanks Jmartz | ||
| Roadrunr |
ANYONE: HERES ONE I CANT FIND IN THE ARCHIVES. WENT RIDING TODAY AND EVERYTIME I STOPPED THE IDLE HUNG OUT AROUND 2000 RPMS FOR ABOUT 5 SEC. BEFORE IT GRADUALLY DROPPED TO NORMAL. I HAD TO PULL OVER AND ADJUST IT MAUALLY 2 TIMES.ANY INPUT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED! STEVE | ||
| Aaron |
Steve: you have a vacuum leak. | ||
| Rempss |
Steve, You might try intake seals first, like Aaron said - spray light mist of water/WD40/carb cleaner around the intake while running. If the idle drops/changes replace them, not a bad job. If that's not it have you had the TPS reset lately? Mine did the same thing until I watched the tech reset the TPS per the book. Then try, O2 sensor, AIT sensor then the head temperature sensor. I found if I raced the idle a bit before complete stop it would fall like normal. I'd bet the leak is the problem, the others are a little less common. Jeff | ||
| Jim_Witt |
RBRacing sells a weatherproof Air/Fuel guage for those interested. I know most of you have visited thier site as I have, but I never noticed the A/F guage. S'later, -JW:>) | ||
| Roadrunr |
Aaron: ok cant locate a vacuum leak so I went to buy the ford o2 sensor with the part # I found in the archives, it's a 4 wire sensor and mine is a 1 wire. what do i do with the other 3 wires? also checked the bosch # i'm not sure if I have enough clearance from the pipe to the head due to it's larger dia. Don't think I told you it's an 2000 X1 is there another aftermarket sensor I could use? | ||
| Shotgun |
 What to do with the left-over breadbox mount? | ||
| Rempss |
Steve - The 1 wire Bosch is a #12014 if I remember correctly. I will try to verify that. I have an old one around here somewhere. The 4 wire is for use with a Powercommander. No change in rpm at all when sprayed? From both sides? The sensors are a long shot for sure. Have you fixed/changed anything lately? Jeff | ||
| Roadrunr |
jeff: this happened to me about 3 weeks ago but then just stopped. the only thing I have done since then is re route the rocker box vent lines,but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with my idle. | ||
| Mrossi |
I've put back together the breadbox back on my x-1 and i'm left with a black metal crescent with 3 holes , which I can't remember where to put; I remember it coming from the rubber ring between the snorkel and the throttle body, but can't remember whether before or after it, and anyway it all fits well together without it, so I left it behind. Has it got any use and where should it seat; can anybody help me (until I get hold of a manual) Thanks in advance M. Rossi | ||
| Roadrunr |
M. ROSSIE: PRETTY SURE IT GOES ON AFTER THE SNORKEL, ON THE BOTTOM. OPEN END UP, 2 BOLTS GO THRU IT TO HOLD THE SNORKEL ON. | ||
| Rempss |
M. - Steve is correct for sure. Holds everthing together in a sturdy fashion. Jeff | ||
| Shotgun |
| ||
| Shotgun |
One more try. I think the image is down to 17k now. What to do with the breadbox forward mount. | ||
| Shotgun |
Tat sent me a black Hypercharger that I put on last week. Looks great. Turned the rear exhaust blue in 50 miles of cool weather riding and power was gone. But looks great. (Stock exhaust, 2001 M2). Added the #45 slow jet, kept the 195 fast jet and turned the idle mixture screw out from factory 1.25 turns to 2.125 turns. Buella loves it! Great power from 3000 RPM up! Cool engine! Got the Creative Cycle knurled idle mixture screw from UPS today. But the way she is responding, I'm just gonna wait a bit and enjoy the throbbing pulse of a free-breathing twin. Guess I'll add one of those nice Nordskag A/F guages just to see if she can use more tweaking, but wow! Question: if the machines are almost all lean from 1000 to 3000 as it appears on the dyno pages, why not go to a 48 or 50 slow jet? | ||
| Rempss |
Shotgun, Check out www.gadgetseller.com , he makes a digital gauge that gives the voltage readout of your O2 sensor. It is a better measure of air/fuel than the 10/20 led strip. Seems 0.70v is rich at cruise but very lean at full throttle. Also converts led gauges to "full throttle" gauges. If you have any electrical/soldering skills you can make a standard 10 led strip type for about $15, may not have a pretty case but it's just as good as the ones at retail. Search the internet, about 500 designs, but all share the same components. Jeff | ||
| Shotgun |
Wish I had an O2 sensor. My bike is a M2. Summit Racing has the Nordskag M7009 A/F guage listed for 29.95. Not bad, but they don't sell a compatable sensor. | ||
| Rempss |
Shotgun, If its a 1999+ M2 I think an adding an O2 is as easy as replacing the pipe with an X1/S3 pipe; verify this before buying anything. If not you can weld an O2 bung into your exisitng pipe. If you are going to use a non-heated sensor make sure it's close to the rear exhaust port, a heated sensor can be placed just about anywhere. I know someone here has put it in the collector to get mixture form both cylinders. Jeff | ||
| Henrik |
Shotgun: Nordskog Performance sells a 4-wire O2 sensor for around $55. Not a bad price. They have a really nice analog A/F gauge as well - pricey but nice. Summit Racing carries the sensor bungs to be welded into the pipe. The Holley version seems like the best option - it has a little lip that would help align the bung when welding. I've been looking into adding a sensor to my race pipe (hence all the welding questions in another section ) and would want to build the bung into a short tower to get the sensor tip out of the direct exhaust flow. It may or may not make a difference in flow, but since I'm starting from scratch I might as well. Henrik | ||
| Jssport |
RB racing's A/F guage is a K+N unit, get it cheaper directly from K+N, just who is that good looding looking dude on RB's LSR pipe page? http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lsr21.htm | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Hey Jim, Are you "sure" the RBracing A/F guage is a K+N unit. I haven't seen either myself, but I was told the K+N unit isn't waterproof, shock-proof, or housed in a billet aluminum casing that has been hard-anodized for corrosion resistance. Sure would like to know the facts. S'later, -JW:>) | ||
| Jssport |
The guage shown on RB's site looks exactly like the one in the Pingel catalog. At the recent Vtwin expo in Cincy I asked the Pingel people if they still carried them, "No but K+N still does", the K+N booth was right next to the Pingel booth. The guy there said they still had it. Last time I priced it out, guage was 200 by itself I think from RB, sensor was extra. In the Pingel catalog I could both for about $200. The boss is already built into my RB pipe. Now is it the same as RB's, I think so but I can't be 100% sure. You could call Bob at RB and ask him straight up if it is a K+N guage. Most people do not leave the guage attached or the O2 sensor on permantly, just for real world tuning then disconnect it. | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Jim: Thanks for the input. The only reason I raised the question, is because all the "other" A/F guage sites that have been posted here were not weatherproof sealed type units. Some were looking for sealed units. BTW, I also understand that some would like to keep it on their bikes full time (for whatever reasons). The picture shown on this K&N link does not look like RBRacings. It also states in the description (at the bottom of their page) that it's an in-dash unit. Yes they're both round but not similar in the way they mount, plus the guage is laid out differently.   Crumy images, -JW:>) | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Since there happen to be some EE type people here...what would it take to have a small circuit/chip/whatever that would supply 12+v to the check engine light when the O2 sensor read a certain value or more/less (i.e., at extremely lean)? That would be a useful doo-dad, and easily adaptable to my carbed X1. ============== Hey, Jmartz, you ever change needles? What's happening w/ your carb issues? Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Neil... If the O2 sensor is a simple variable voltage or variable current device, it would be pretty simple to set up. All you need is a voltage reference (like a zeener diode), a comparator (or just a transistor), a couple resistors, a diode, and an LED would do it. It might be trickier then that though, it might be putting out some variable frequencies or variable pulse widths, and might be non-linear (a curve instead of a line). This would all complicate what you want to do substantially. But I have no idea how an O2 sensor actually works, so I am just speculating here. | ||
| Rempss |
The only problem wityh "extremely lean" is that it is different at idle/cruise/WFO. Jeff | ||
| Ron |
This should be a simple question for some of you experts out there. I need an air intake assembly (bread box and back plate) for my 00 S-3T. I have placed adds to this effect and recieved an number of nice offers from folks with M2 airbox assemblies. I have checked and the parts numbers are not the same between the M2 and S3 units. I am wondering if the only difference might be the holes in the bottom of the cover for the T fairing leg mount. But then why the diffent part number on the back plate? Anyway does anyone know if an M2 airbox and cover can be fitted to an S-3 (T) year 2000 or not. Drilling holes for the fairing mount is no problem. Thanks Ron | ||
| Blake |
Neil: As I understand it, the main difficulty is that the non-wide-band O2 sensors basically only provide accurate information at/near stoichmetric (14.7:1) conditions. They are thus basically absolute indicators of lean/rich, but cannot accurately indicate how lean or rich. Still, if you are leaner than stoichmetric, you are too lean right? |
