Author |
Message |
Hunger
| Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 02:01 pm: |
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Hi guys. I have no charging in my Ulysses. It reads 0 Volts on regulator's output. I checked the fuses (how to check the diode?) they're all OK. Measured alternator outputs phase-to-phase (at [46] connector) each pair read over 30V (not a true RMS meter so more or less). So I thought the alternator is OK and got a new regulator but it's still reads 0V. I'm at a loss, what else can it be? |
Phelan
| Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 02:40 pm: |
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Replace the stator anyway. At least that's how I fixed the issue. We tested it and it tested fine, but when I pulled it out it was shot. |
Hunger
| Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 05:22 pm: |
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Don't tell me that I just gutted a good regulator for a repair :/ And the stator costs another 200 euro, ehh... I did the 'dual-headlight' mod and it happend just after... could it be too much load for the stator? OK, I'll try and pull it out. You say, the damage should be visible? (Message edited by Hunger on August 02, 2015) |
Phelan
| Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 06:04 pm: |
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Pull your inspection cover. It will smell burnt if the stator is bad or going bad. If you tear down to get a visual on the stator and you see burnt spots, its obviously bad. In my case, both the VR and stator were bad. I bought a stator from Jrobey used for like $50 and it works great now. Just make sure you get the right one for your series. 03-07 are triple phase, 08-up are single phase. |
Hunger
| Posted on Sunday, August 02, 2015 - 06:57 pm: |
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Thanks, Phelan. I'll check it in the morning (it's after midnight here). Will let you know what I find. (Message edited by Hunger on August 03, 2015) |
Fast1075
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 06:16 am: |
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Be careful what you use for lube in the primary. Any lube containing sulphur will destroy the windings in the stator. |
Hunger
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 06:45 am: |
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Yeah... I see it might be to hard for me to fix. I'm not a mechanic. Before I start can you tell me, I did the 'dual headlight mod': https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z01Gvsj5oPw Is it possible that some sensor detects it and cuts charging off, or something along the lines? I have the ECM cable, I can check anything just say what. I want to count anything else out before I start taking my bike apart. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 08:07 am: |
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You won't hurt the stator or voltage regulator by adding load (like the dual headlight mod). It actually makes the stator and VR's job easier. 0 volts out of the VR sounds really odd. Like it's a measurement problem, not a VR problem. You should at least be seeing battery voltage, and if it was really 0V, the bike couldn't even be running. Double check where you have the probes plugged into the meter, and how you have the meter set up. |
Hunger
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 10:58 am: |
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No no, I measured VR output at disconnected [77] plug (of course the regulator was connected to the stator, engine running on idle). It read 0-1V, sometimes up to 3V. I'm sure it's not a measurement problem, I've checked dozen times. (Message edited by Hunger on August 03, 2015) |
Alexsocal
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 11:55 am: |
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Double check the magnets as well. Recently I saw a buell with that problem. It's not usual but it can happen. I also know the case of a bad new regulator that made the mechanic go mad since it was a brand new OEM part. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 11:56 am: |
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I'm pretty sure the regulator has to be hooked up to a battery to regulate its voltage. I know there is no field winding but I think it needs something to reference itself to. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 12:00 pm: |
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It's a shunt regulator, so unless it is hooked to ground on one side, and the output from the stator on the other side, it can't do anything. A shunt regulator just watches the input voltage climb until it is too high, then dumps all power straight to ground for the remainder of that cycle. A brutish approach, but simple, perhaps even elegent for a fixed magnet generator. |
Hunger
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 12:07 pm: |
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But when it's all connected together, the voltage measured on the battery should rise when you start the engine, shouldn't it? It's also not happening. I tried to remove the engine cover but the oil started dripping out, so I decided to wait for a friend to give me a hand, not to brake something accidentally. (Message edited by Hunger on August 03, 2015) |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 01:16 pm: |
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quote:I tried to remove the engine cover but the oil started dripping out,
You only need to remove the tiny chain inspection window, the thing near the shifter that has only two screws holding it in. It is above the oil line. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 01:30 pm: |
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Should still run out if you are on the side stand, only works on a rear stand. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 02:11 pm: |
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Yes Hunger, measure the voltage (at the battery is fine) with the ignition on and not running, and make a note of it. 11.8 or something. Now start the motor, and make another observation of the voltage at the battery. 13.2 or something? If so, you are charging and the system is fine. I its still 11.8 and dropping, then either the stator is not outputting voltage, the voltage regulator is not regulating voltage, or there is a problem with grounds or connections somewhere in the chain. If you had a bad stator, then jump started the bike from a running car to charge the battery, you probably burned up the voltage regulator also (don't ask me how I know ). It would be fine to jump it with a car that is not running however. |
Hunger
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2015 - 06:07 pm: |
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Fortunately I haven't tried this. I use only external charger for the battery. Thanks for warning anyway. OK, here's what we've done. I checked again with battery fully charged (13.2V). Everything connected (regulator etc.). When I switched on the ignition the voltage immediately dropped to 12.4V. Started the engine and let it run for a minute, still ~12.4V. We stopped the engine, put the bike on a rear stand and removed the 2-screw inspection cover. I can see nothing inside but sprockets. Smells oil, definitely not like something's burned. Replacing stator, hmm... I've found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTVNj9uxKks I guess it's virtually the same in Buells. It's beyond my skills. I give up, going to a HD mechanic tomorrow. Thanks for all the posts, at least you gave me some ideas. (Message edited by Hunger on August 03, 2015) |
Hunger
| Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2015 - 03:30 pm: |
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In case both stator and VR fails is it worth to replace them with 1-phase version? Will 1-phase stator fit 2006 Ulysses model? Is it any better/reliable? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2015 - 04:33 pm: |
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Huh. That's a darn good question. I have no idea. One could presume the later models are better and probably be right more times than not. |
Hunger
| Posted on Friday, August 28, 2015 - 06:20 pm: |
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Solved. It was melted 77 connector. I ordered a new regulator with updated connector and the charging is back |
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