| Author |
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M1combat
| | Posted on Thursday, May 09, 2013 - 07:37 pm: | 
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WTF?
How many buell owners does it take to remember the oiling system in an XB?
Sheesh people...
(Message edited by M1Combat on May 09, 2013) |
Hooliken
| | Posted on Friday, May 10, 2013 - 08:30 am: |
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quote:WTF?
How many buell owners does it take to remember the oiling system in an XB?
Sheesh people...
Lol! I was thinking the same damn thing. |
Kiwidave
| | Posted on Sunday, May 12, 2013 - 07:07 am: |
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Spent the afternoon working on the bike which was really enjoyable.
Drained the engine oil and using a stocking as a filter found a few more pieces of metal so removed all the feeder lines and flushed the reservoir which now seem clean.
Removed the oil pump and checked the drive gear which looks like the original(not bronze version) and looks to be in very good condition with no sign of damage.
Then took apart the oil pump and it has signs of damage and the outer ring of the gerotor(I think thats what its called) has cracked so has had something go through it.
Also I when I first started this thread I assumed the pieces of metal were steel as I used a magnet to remove them from the swingarm reservior but looking at the pieces that came out today they looked like an alloy and they wouldn't stick to a magnet. I have just checked the original fragments and they seem to be an alloy too as I can't pick them up with a magnet......not sure why they stuck the first time which made me think they were steel so I'm sorry to have lead you in the wrong direction.
So now thinking that the fragments are an alloy any ideas where they could be from? |
Sifo
| | Posted on Sunday, May 12, 2013 - 09:38 am: |
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Sorry to see that, but it's progress so to speak. Hard to say what the origin of those pieces are after they've been pulverized like that. It could still be as simple as manufacturing debris. It does happen. It could also be a piston skirt, or some support webbing from the cases somewhere. Only inspection is likely to tell. IMO it's still likely that you may not have to split the cases to get things fixed up, but it's a fairly uninformed opinion until you identify what is and isn't damaged. Certainly an engine swap can be a quick way to get on the road for the riding season, but a used engine is not without risk either. It could also be the best long term option.
If it were me, I would almost certainly start pulling the rocker boxes and cam side engine cover. If you don't have answers at that point, pull the top end off. If you have to go any farther than that, the used engine really starts to look appealing. Much depends on your comfort level of an engine refresh and how willing you are to pump cash into the bike. It could be a learning opportunity if nothing else. I remember the first time I pulled heads off of a small block Chevy and was pondering why the number 3 and 4 cylinders had their pistons 90 degrees to the others.  |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, May 12, 2013 - 10:24 am: |
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Left-handed progress as it were, but now more is known than before.
Don't forget the oil cooler and its associated lines as to flushing.
The second engine is looking like a fair option ... |
Greg_e
| | Posted on Sunday, May 12, 2013 - 10:56 am: |
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Well, since you are in for a little, might as well go in far enough to replace that drive gear, it doesn't cost very much.
To me it looked like those were pieces of a piston ring, otherwise it pretty much needs to be a cam gear or oil pump gear. Could it have blown the pump gear a long time ago and someone just put a new gear on and hoped for the best?
Scratch the pump gear and cam gears, pretty sure they are steel and magnetic. Not sure if any lifter parts would look like that. Valve springs are steel. Some of the internal bearings are stainless and non-magnetic.
(Message edited by Greg_E on May 12, 2013) |
Trojan
| | Posted on Monday, May 13, 2013 - 05:28 am: |
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How many buell owners does it take to remember the oiling system in an XB?
It wasn't exactly clear to start with where the bits came from. I thoght he said they were from the primary initially. It was only later it was clear theyc ame from the swingarm reservoir. |
Sifo
| | Posted on Monday, May 13, 2013 - 07:03 am: |
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and then placed a magnet into the engine oil reservoir and pulled out a number of pieces of metal which you can see in the photo.
I'm not sure what's not clear about that statement from the first post. It got confusing when people kept trying to suggest the pieces came from the primary. Even more so when someone was suggesting that they may have originated in the primary and found their way into the engine oil.  |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, May 13, 2013 - 08:30 am: |
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The old style pinion gear for oil pump *is* magnetic, FWIW. (I have two here on my desk and checked). |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Monday, May 13, 2013 - 08:35 am: |
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And given that damage, it seems prudent to rotate the engine down and remove the cam cover (which will also require removing at least one rocker box). |
Kiwidave
| | Posted on Monday, May 13, 2013 - 10:11 am: |
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Thanks for all your thoughts and comments. I plan to remove the engine in the next week and pretty much follow Sifo's advice to start.
I was planning to buy a used engine but have decided to put the money into repairing this engine(unless its too far gone) and although it may be off the road for a while I have another bike to ride so won't be so bad.
For piece of mind I will also replace the drive gear with the newer gear. |
M1combat
| | Posted on Monday, May 13, 2013 - 07:44 pm: |
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If you're going that far you may look into an '08 crank as well (or at least look at what issues the <'08 cranks have...).
You MIGHT also look at the '06 trans (as I understand it the insides are a drop in but it would be awesome for someone to confirm that) but don't just assume the new ones are better. They're just for different people is all. |
Kiwidave
| | Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 10:04 am: |
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Finally able to get into the top end of the engine today and once the rear cylinder was removed it was pretty obvious where the pieces of metal came from.
I found the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) sitting part way out of the piston and scraping up and down the bore of the cylinder making a slight groove.
I'm guessing the locking ring is somewhere in the bottom of the engine.
Also there seems to be a bit of play in the connecting rod so the crank may have to be rebuilt/replaced. I'll get a second opinion from a local mechanic to check on that.
Although it's not great news at least I can start getting the parts together to get it going again. |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 01:05 pm: |
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Well that's a new one on me.
I was thinking piston skirt or something. |
Sifo
| | Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 06:42 pm: |
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Thanks for updating. I hope you get better news on the bottom end. If you can avoid splitting the cases it's not too bad. Otherwise a fleabay engine may be the way to go. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, May 23, 2013 - 08:11 pm: |
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Bummer. That's looking like a total rebuild. 
Sorry! |
M1combat
| | Posted on Friday, May 31, 2013 - 04:48 am: |
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Splitting cases isn't too bad either really... |
Sifo
| | Posted on Friday, May 31, 2013 - 09:12 am: |
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Splitting cases isn't too bad either really...
Other than paying for the expensive bits that are causing you to split the cases in the first place. |
M1combat
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 02:36 pm: |
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Well... There is that...  |
Thumpthump
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 03:04 pm: |
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Well that sucks, at least you know what the problem is and can fix it and get back on the road. I hope all goes well with the rebuild. |
Kiwidave
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 04, 2013 - 08:43 pm: |
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So far I've been able to find a used oil pump, cylinders, pistons and rocker boxes from a low mileage bike which should arrive in the next week or so from the U.S.
I'm still looking for a good used crank as there is a fair bit of play in the connecting rods but if I can't find one I'll get mine rebuilt and balanced here in Japan.
The costs are starting to add up a bit but will hopefully last a while once repaired. |
