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Archive through April 04, 2012Rex_1_mn30 04-04-12  02:09 pm
         

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Jakecheez
Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2012 - 07:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i have ecmspy hooked up and I have no idea what im doing. I followed the istructions on how to do a tps reset. The bike still wont stay running.

It says that there are no error codes present and cps signal is 0.

any ideas on how ecmspy can help me further? when i start it, it smells like gas, then it dies.
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Jakecheez
Posted on Wednesday, April 04, 2012 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

im done- its going to the dealership.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 02:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, the wires that were chafed through went to the throttle position sensor and as that is what the injection bases nearly all running decisions off of, not surprised it would not start. And the black ground wire should be taped up. When you connected ECM Spy what did the screen show your AFV at and what was the TP setting before you tried the reset? And did you look for any trouble codes? When you rest the TP did you make sure throttle was closed tightly? And does bike start and run but will not idle?
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Jakecheez
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 06:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

-afv was 0
-tp setting was 6.9
-no trouble codes found
-yes I closed the throttle tightly
-the bike starts and dies within 10 seconds. -If i give it any throttle it dies immediately.

Al @ american sportbike thinks that the fuel is not maintaining pressure. It pumps up 49psi into the fuel line, then it starts and uses the fuel in the line, then dies when the fuel is used up.

it makes sense, but the next step would be to pull out the fuel pump assembly. since I have a force pipe, it would involve rotating the motor to remove the pipe to remove the rear shock to lower the swingarm to remove the pump assembly. I'm afraid that if I rotate the motor, I will mess somthing up, so I'm thinking of having someone do it for me.
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Panhead_dan
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 07:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yer gonna go ahead and do this the hard way, aint ya?
Maybe I missed it but did you try new spark plugs?
If it actually turns out to be a fuel delivery problem, an inspection of the fuel pump can often reveal the flaw. Sometimes it's just a matter of fixing a short circuit in the fuel pump wiring. Mine had a problem with the fuel pump wiring connector near the left passenger footpeg. I was able to fix it in the pre dawn light on the side of the road on the way to work one morning.
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Jakecheez
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spark plugs, wires and ignition coil are all brand new.

I have completely inspected all wiring that is not located inside the frame.

I'm sure inspecting the fuel pump assembly will yield an answer, but I'm just not confident in rotating the motor.
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Glitch
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 11:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's easier to rotate the motor than it is inspecting the fuel pump.
Go ahead it'll only take ya about 45 minutes to an hour the first time.
It's not near the bother it may look like.
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Froggy
Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 11:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why do you need to rotate the motor to get to the swingarm bolt? I assume there is a clearance issue between the pipe and swingarm, or you just don't want to risk damaging the pipe. Wouldn't you be able to remove just the muffler portion at worst?

I don't know what resources you have available, but you can simply hang the bike from the frame, either by something like an engine hoist or some ratchet straps hooked onto a garage rafter. I did similar with my XB a few years back, I can't use a jack under the Micron Muffler, so I used a rear stand and ratchet straps connected to my ceiling to hoist the front up while I put on new forks and trees.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 12:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AFV was 0??? There is a problem, should be 95-105
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Jakecheez
Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

froggy- good idea, but the force pipe was custom built and is all one peice, from the headers to the tip of the muffler.

AFV was not 0, I was wrong on that.

As for the issue, It is resolved. The rear header gasket was bad and it was letting air into the header. The o2 sensor on the header was being bombarded by air, so it was flooding the motor out and closing off all air to compensate.

new seal and new velocity stack seals for good measure plus a run on the dyno to re-tune it all and it runs like a bat outta hell again.

oh- its for sale for $4000. Let me know if anyone is interested.

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