| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
So I finally fired my XB9R up last night and the ticking sound around the front cylinder is now louder than I remembered. Thinking this may not be a good thing at all, does anyone have a comment on the NRHS 1050 bolt on kit? Anyone have a rough ECM file for an otherwise stock 2003 with the bolt on kit? I do have a 12 header, and 12 TB that I could put on for a little extra flow, but the stock muffler is staying because I can't have it any louder. The 1050 kit is $750 and I have a feeling that stock parts will run me the same if I have to do cylinder, piston, and pin in both cylinders so I might as well give it a little boost in power while I'm doing the job. While the heads are off I would carefully smooth them out (not a port, just a polish or cleaning). I am not excited about what could be going wrong in there so I am not looking forward to spending money to fix it. | ||
| Livers |
Want me to stop by for a 2nd opinion? Say when is good, I'm flexible. | ||
| Greg_e |
I may have to ride out and meet you... My brother just bought a Ninja 250 and will need to put some miles down before road test time. There is definitely something going on and it could be valve train, or it could be piston on exhaust stroke when it is unloaded. I'm still hoping it is as simple as a dead lifter or bent pushrod, but my luck is such that it is probably a bad big end bearing or at least a bad little end bearing and pin and it has allowed the piston to slop around enough to wreck the cylinder. I dropped some Seafoam in the oil and need to put some miles on it... But first I need to finish my headlight upgrade which is priority for tomorrow. I've been looking at the stock wiring... They are pulling up to 30 amps out of a 16 gauge wire. By the time the fuse blows I think the wire will melt. Need to check my sources and make sure taking power from the main fuse is the best option since I'm running an extra 20 watts of headlights. Of course I did drop to a lot less on turn and break by putting in LED sources so I think the net result will be the same. | ||
| Ian03xl |
I've never done a 1050 on a xb9, but I done a 1250 kit on my sporty. The 1250 has the same piston and cylinder size as the 1050 I believe. Dan over at nrhs has top notch customer service and quality of parts is going to be tough to beat. | ||
| Argentcorvid |
I hope it doesn't sound like Hughlysses' Uly. | ||
| Greg_e |
Not as loud but somewhat similar which is why I think my luck will be very bad and I'll have a major repair in front of me. I thought of one more condition that could mess up the lifters, and that would be a worn out bore in the case which doesn't let the oil pressure build for that lifter... As far as I know the only repair is a new cam cover. Going to try and get the headlights done today and take it for a spin and let the Seafoam do some work and hope it gets better. | ||
| Greg_e |
Anyone have any other comments on the 1050 kit? My choices are stock cylinders and pistons for $525 + $100 in gaskets or $750 for the 1050 kit that comes with gaskets. Didn't want to do all the tuning for the 1050, but it seems like the best choice in dollars spent. Both my cylinders and pistons or beyond use so they both need to be replaced. I need to decide what I'm going to do by Monday so I have half a chance of getting everything in before the 4th of July so I can try to put it all back together during the holiday. | ||
| Notblues2 |
I bought a kit from these guys and love it: http://hammerperf.com/xlbigborekits.shtml Super light pistons and a great price. Mine's a 1250 kit but they have 1050 kits too. | ||
| Greg_e |
Looks and has the same description as the kit from NRHS, and they carry other Axtel cylinders so I bet the kits are the same. | ||
| Notblues2 |
They are associated with nhrs and they do all of the head porting for them but it's a different company and the kit is different too. The pistons and pins are lighter and the cylinders are different too. | ||
| Greg_e |
For good or for bad, the 1050 kit has been purchased. I guess I'll no more after I run it for a while. | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
let us know how it works out for you. If everything works out soon I will be getting this really good job I am trying for and then i will be getting me a 1125cr and then tearing my xb apart and putting a 150 kit in mine. | ||
| Greg_e |
If you want to do it just for a test or fun thing, I would suggest going all the way in and getting the large size that requires the case to bee machined. I went with the 1050 simply because it was within reach of the stock parts (price), if they had a stock size with higher grade components I would have chosen that, 1050 was the closest. I may try to do an engine assembly video, still haven't decided about that since I'm not familiar with all the steps so it probably won't look all that good with all the stopping and starting while I look up tightening sequences and torque values. | ||
| Firebolt020283 |
well I am not trying to make it some super engine or anything but I am sure after the abuse I have been giving my bike the past several months and the fact that the gaskets are slowly starting to go she will need a rebuild soon so I figure while she is down i should give it some more displacement and odds and end stuff while it is down. The Idea if every thing works out and I get this new job and stuff is that I can find me a 1125 to use as an every day bike that is for the most part bone stock and I can use the xb as more of a show bike because once I tear it down I am going to do a lot of powder coating, anodizing, painting and changing out parts that need changing to were she is my vision of the perfect bike. The most I will do to the 1125 I want is a pipe, air cleaner and once Jens starts selling the typhon radiator kit I might put that on there. | ||
| Greg_e |
What you really need is an 1125 powered Uly XT so you have the hard luggage and more comfortable riding position. I would still suggest checking the stock cylinders to see if they are good for a rebuild and doing that, otherwise step it up to something really big if you want a showpiece. If you have an early year, you should probably replace the oil pump drive gear with the newer style while the heads are off. You need to remove all the pressure on the lifters before removing the cam cover or you can damage the cam bearings. That means the heads kind of need to come off. You will also need a tool to hold the output shaft so that you can get the nut off the end, these two devices (gear and holder) cost about $90 (I ordered them yesterday). You might also want to change the head temperature sensor and the O2 sensor while everything is apart, with all the tools I think I spent almost $250 on "other" parts that were not related to the cylinder change, but should really be done while it is happening. Now on to why I think my cylinders were junked... The person before me had one of the third party "juice" boxes that is supposed to fix mixture issues when you do things like change the pipe. There was evidence that the motor had gotten extremely hot many times, and this most likely lead to the front getting out of round. | ||
| Briz31 |
Hey mine is currently in the process.. XB9s with a 1050cc bolt on kit. However I went with the Revolution Performance 1050 kit, Millenium Cyliners with CP high performance pistons. "All Revolution™ cylinder and piston kits come complete with our one piece, all aerospace grade aluminum nickel-silicon carbide plated bore cylinders, complete forged piston kit and head and base gasket kit!" Dearer but Quality !! (Axtel are iron lined, not the best) I sent my heads to NRHS for CNC stage 2 porting. Also got th Direct Link USB key to remap the ECM.  | ||
| Greg_e |
Stock is iron lined and there certainly seemed to be a lot of growing pains with those all aluminum cylinders through the years on the Harleys. Took a while to get the rings and plating correctly matched. that's a chance I don't really want to take right now and the extra almost $250 was just too much and I would have gone with stock replacements first. I think I would be happier if the cylinders were anodized instead of having a coating applied. Gas Nitried hardened would also be a choice. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Briz, you did not need to buy that Direct link key as you can do the same or more with ECM_Spy. Greg, the Millenium cylinders with the plating are what is being used in nearly all the Japanese street and dirt machines and has been for years. Wears well. The stock HD cylinders are known for the liners shifting and being anything but round. Seen several Buells through here with head gaskets blown because the liner lifted. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Briz, you did not need to buy that Direct link key as you can do the same or more with ECM_Spy. Greg, the Millenium cylinders with the plating are what is being used in nearly all the Japanese street and dirt machines and has been for years. Wears well. The stock HD cylinders are known for the liners shifting and being anything but round. Seen several Buells through here with head gaskets blown because the liner lifted. | ||
| Briz31 |
Hey Fireman Jim, Cheers, thanks for that... However I picked up the Direct Link for $130, the Engine builder I'm using has a dynojet and has plenty of tuning exp with directlink/dynojet so it should save me plenty of time on the Dyno (hours/$$). Just had plugs welded into the headers now they are off for ceramic coating, tuner can monitor the gas thru the plugs, and tune it up. Awaiting the HEADS to come back from NRHS (cnc ported/poliched), the cylinders are amazing, builder measured them up, perfect, CP Pistons are 1st class.. ""my feet are itching... cant wait to take it out for a ride"" | ||
| Greg_e |
Please let us know about the heads when they arrive, I may send mine out for the rebuild and got a decent price from NRHS to do the work and replace the parts. I think it may be difficult to beat that price even when shipping is added on top. I'm just going for a stock rebuild of the heads - new valves, new guides, clean the valve seats, new seals. |
