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Americanmadexb
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i need some input. Im changing my exhaust out soon and was going to replace my straps. Well i had no idea they were $66?? WOW!!

How many of you have used the old straps with NO problem? I know some have had one come loose and even break header bolts, but i just cant see paying that much for straps!!
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Wolfridgerider
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I put the old ones back on and lightning didn't strike me.......................................yet
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984gasm
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've also used twice with no problems... But wasn't trying it three times. Just last week switched out my straps, and yeah, I had no idea also.. There was a thread like a month ago with a boating supply site that had those straps for like $5 a piece.. I can send you the link tomorrow when get to work, can't remember the name at the moment.
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice, i will check that link out! $5 per strap sounds more reasonable. Im also going to search the building tomorrow at work.
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW, what exact tools do i need to remove the muffler? Im going to try and take it off without removing the tensioner. I still need to loosen the rear wheel though right? I will get it figured out and will also do some thread searching before i attempt this.
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Fastfxrs
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you are going to be taking off your muffler more than a couple of times, its worth it to turn the straps around so you can get to the nuts from the left side of the bike(otherwise you have to take the front pulley guard off to get to them from the right). I resused my straps once and had the dealership put new ones on when they replaced my badly rusted Uly muffler under warranty ( the new one is rusting too, but not as bad or as fast).
Tim
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Nasty73z
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can find the straps here. The two rear straps are 7.5" and the smallest one for the header connection is 2".

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id= 127

Anyone know the size of the smaller front strap?
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Jlnance
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

American - My Uly service manual says not to reuse the front strap, but it doesn't say anything like that about the rear two straps.

After taking the muffler off, I can see why. The front takes a beating when you remove it. At least mine did.

You can get it off w/o removing the tensioner. Its not that difficult to work through the belt. You will need a deep socket to fit over the strap bolts.

I got it off by myself. I was very nice to have a friend help me put it back on. I'm not sure I could have done it w/o him.
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Houharleyguy
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got to my torca clamp bolts through the openings in the tensioner pulley by just moving the belt some to align them as I wanted. I uses a 1/2 drive and a wobble...and voila....easy peasy. I did turn the clamps the opposite way on the install though.

Kevin
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Jlnance
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

fastfxrs - Mine was rusting as well. I just had it ceramic coated by HPC. $55. I thought that was a steal.

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Jlnance
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 09:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nasty - I'm not sure if those straps will work:

Stainless Steel Lock Nut w/ Nylon Insert.

The nylon insert will melt since this gets so hot. I'm not sure it will actually matter though. Or perhaps the nuts could be changed. The ones on the Buell straps have the nuts with the split tops. I'm not sure what they are called.
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Nasty73z
Posted on Monday, February 19, 2007 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have not personally tried those straps, bu they are the same ones sold by Al at American Sportbike, and knowing his standards I doubt he would sell a product that wouldn't work 100% to the fullest. I am going to be using those very soon when I switch to a Drummer from my Jardine.
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Tx05xb12s
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 12:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used my original clamps to mount my race can. I don't see what the big deal is reusing the clamps as long as they're in good condition.

And I didn't take the idler pulley off either. I stuck my socket on a universal joint attached to an extension right through the pulley slots. I put the clamps back on with the bolts facing the left side of the bike.
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Typeone
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 08:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i took the chance... third time was the charm, SNAP. both the lower and torca clamp cracked.

just when i was about to set out for a beautiful day of riding too. lame.
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Rasmonis
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 08:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used my originals when installing the rake kit. My original straps where in good condition though. We'll see what this year brings...
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Yohinan
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 03:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would not have any hesitation about using those straps. If your worried about the nylon nut melting then just thread another nut onto the threaded rod to use as a locknut.
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Stryker_buell
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

fastfxrs-
Who is HPC???
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2007 - 04:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I Got a couple straps from my bike that I took off as soon as I bought the bike...well maybe about 500 or so miles on it. Straps still look brand new. nice and shinny.

If any of youz are interested make me an offer and they could be yours. I was just going to post them on ebay when I saw this thread.
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Teeps
Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2007 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you're leary about the nyloc nuts that are supplied with the boat clamps you can get the Slotted hex - FLEXLOC self-locking nuts.


http://www.thread-rite.com/sps_nuts/slotted.htm
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Thansesxb9rs
Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2007 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is all in the torque you use when reinstalling if you have the problem with them breaking.

I was taking my exhaust off about once a month when I was building my own custom exhausts and going thru different variations. Probably took the can off 30 times and never had a break. You DO NOT need to tighten these things really tight. Just check them out everytime you take them off and if I remember correctly the service manual tells you to torque them to tight, yes there are some errors in the service manual that have been found out about the stated torque rates.

Pretty sure there is a thread in the KV about the incorrect torque rates in the manual.
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Typeone
Posted on Thursday, February 22, 2007 - 07:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i never torqued mine down to spec, only 'snug'. they still cracked. it was almost as if they got brittle over time and stress. wasn't even riding, woke up one fall morning to go ride... strap hanging.

YMMV
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Metalstorm
Posted on Thursday, February 22, 2007 - 02:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I remember something about them losing tensile strength if they're retorqued.

I always replace mine with new because that can is right under me and if it should snap off and fall to the ground at high speeds that would be very sucky.

The back ones wouldn't be too much of a problem except for damage to the can.
The front one could be fatal if it broke while riding fast.
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