| Author | Message | ||
     1stbuell |
Please help! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=3842&post=712853#POST 712853 | ||
| 1stbuell |
Need more help. Thanks | ||
| Josh52 |
use a 13/16 spark plug socket backwards works great | ||
| 1stbuell |
Thanks! I'll check out Sears and get one. | ||
| Jon_s |
Did you break the tool by turning the front axle in the wrong direction? The thread at the front is left-handed! If you are really stuck, just get a 7/8 bolt, thread two nuts on it, insert the head in the axle and use a wrench on the nut. Another option. Motion Pro make an axle tool that fits a variety of bikes: www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/t-6_superlight_hex_axle_tool/ | ||
| 1stbuell |
I turned it the right way, but it just snapped in half. Thanks for the link, I think I'll order one of those. It looks like it will hold together longer. | ||
| Diablobrian |
the steel version would probably be a better idea with torque involved. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0397/ | ||
| Sparky |
"use a 13/16 spark plug socket backwards works great" Should be 7/8" socket, no? A spark plug socket might not be designed for high torque. | ||
| Jon_s |
Diablobrian, I have both. The aluminum tool is rated for 90 ft lbs; more than you'll likely ever need. It's light and fits the Buell pouch. The steel one is made offshore, kinda rough in finish and weighs three times as much. Not something you want to tote around. | ||
| Diablobrian |
I figured if the axle was stuck hard enough that he twisted the stock tool in half that the steel might be a better choice. I'm a machinist and I work with 6061 t-6 aluminum. Even with a hard anodizing you don't want to use it for high torque very many times. The aluminum is crystalline in structure and will crack and eventually fail. | ||
| 1stbuell |
Thanks for all the info guys. I just ordered the steel version. | ||
| 1stbuell |
BTW, when I loosened the front axle to try and get the front tire off, the axle was very tight all the way to the end. I even had to use a gripper clamp (not sure what else to call it, works great on jar lids!) to actually pull it thru when it was un-threaded. Is this normal? The rear came off with no problem, smooth and tight but fairly easy to pull out. | ||
| Xring |
Mine wasn't that tight when I took it out last year. You may have some seizing going on. I'd clean the axle up with steel wool or Scotch-Brite (not the threads) and lightly lubricate with anti-seize compound when you put it back together. (Not on the threads, just the smooth part that goes through the bearings and fork leg). There used to be a few posts about the rear axle seizing in the bearings; I don't recall seeing any about the front. Check with the service manual regarding where to put Loctite when putting it back together. I don't recall if it is called for on the axle threads, but it probably is. It is specified for just about everywhere else. Good luck, Bill | ||
| 1stbuell |
Thanks Bill, I will be cleaning it tomorrow and getting it ready to put the wheels back on. | ||
| Diablobrian |
No locktite on axles. Use anti-sieze. The pinch bolts keep them from backing out. | ||
| Xb12rdude |
Just took my wheels off and the "reverse spark plug socket" worked great. |
