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Archive through June 23, 2015Dannybuell30 06-23-15  03:02 pm
         

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Coffee_brake
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought everyone was saying it should show 14 volts at idle?

I buttoned it all up and went for a short ride for fresh fuel and to just make sure it wasn't the old battery doing strange things. But nope, even with the brand new battery, it had dropped below 13 volts within one minute of idle and was at 12.7 as I rode back to the house after less than two miles.

I just need to make sure it's the stator before I go and buy one.

Also the tach has quite working.

Has anyone looked at the photo? Is that the Harley harness or not?
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Shawns
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep that is the Harley Harness. I use the CE605SB regulator and I maintain 14 volts with no issues. Here is where I installed mine.






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Coffee_brake
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 05:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Went digging through the paperwork I got with the bike. The Rick's stator has less than 2k miles on it.
Can a stator burn out in 2k miles?
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Shawns
Posted on Tuesday, June 23, 2015 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is possible if the oiling rotor was not done.
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Coffee_brake
Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just got off the phone with Rick's electric, they said if the stator doesn't look at all burned, check the regulator/rectifier. Took a bit to get at it, but according to Rick's video, it's bad. The multimeter doesn't beep when I mimic the tests on the video.
Don't ask me what I'm testing, I'm just "monkey see, monkey do" with this. So I'm thinking the R/R bad. That's the only part that's actually failing any test I can do.
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Coffee_brake
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got a aftermarket Mosfet r/r (what is Mosfet? brand name? manufacturing method?)

I got one claimed to operate at high wattage for a Hayabusa and wired it in. I used the automotive grade velcro to keep it insulated from the frame and allow more air flow.

It is charging at 13.4 at idle, and that comes up to as high as 13.8 as the bike warms up, even when the fan is running.

So this bike still needs an oiling rotor installed but it won't put me on the roadside in the near future.

The tachomoter has quit. Any ideas?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Coffee...
MOSFET is a acronym for Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor..it's the type of semiconductor used to switch "on/off" the charging circuit.

the Hyabusa VR may work for awhile but may burn out eventually ( I used a VR from a FJR and it lasted about 2 years)it is a "shunt type" rectifier...you need a SERIES type to provide a long term solution...

go here and read the 3rd post by Posplayr/Finedaddy...it explains the different types of VR available:

http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 629084.html?1303997177

good luck ...we all have been there!
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Shawns
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle%20New%2 0Series%20Regulators.htm

These are not the shunt style regulator. Your stator should run cooler because excess voltage is not sent to ground allowing it to run cooler. These just need to be in airflow as the casing of the regulator is its heat sink.
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Coffee_brake
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 07:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ah, very good info, I get it. A spare working R/R is never a bad thing to have in the garage anyway, even if I need a series type.

Thanks!!!
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