| Author | Message | ||
     Mikethebike72 |
30k miles, ridden almost daily on a 20 mile commute each way. Left work the other day and had a little sputter as leaving the parking lot. When going to get onto interstate, it was sputtering and wouldn't make power above 3k. Got off at next exit. Limped to a station. Got a tow home. Still doing it. I topped off the fuel tank, added a little seafoam. Went for a ride, seemed to run fine. Now it is back doing the same thing, cutting out and loosing power around 3k. I have checked the fuel pressure in diagnostic mode and it reads around the 400 kpa mark. No codes have been thrown. Any thoughts? | ||
| D_adams |
Original battery? Check the voltage on it. | ||
| Phlegm |
Check your grounds. | ||
| Shawns |
What fuel are you using. Ethanol crap? That crap can cause concerns as well | ||
| Mikethebike72 |
Gas is same as I have always used. Battery is good. I replaced it over the winter. Battery ground cable was a little loose, but not enough to cause this. Still running poorly after tightening. I checked the one under seat and near neck, both seem good. | ||
| Froggy |
Any issues with idling? In diagnostic mode, go to the TPS screen, see if it smoothly goes from 5%-100% as you twist the throttle. I've seen throttle cable binding cause similar issues, but not this extreme. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Hopefully, not the situation in your case, but I'll throw it out there as a "possible": http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/713190.html | ||
| Mikethebike72 |
Froggy, Idles fine. TPS shows smooth throughout rotation. Stirz, I hope it is not that. Did you notice increased noise? Mine is same level of noisy as before. Any reports of intake leaks on the 1125s? I think prior models would act like this when the intake seals, or boot for blast, had a leak. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Mike - no increase in valve train noise, and that's what threw me. When it first happened at Hallett, JD and I checked everything we could and 'thought' is was likely a bad injector or fuel rail. Ran fine up to a certain RPM, then not, so I really thought it was fueling/ignition related and focused attention there. Turns out it was a mechanical issue (jumped time). If you run through other possibles with no luck, pull valve covers and take a look just to be sure. | ||
| Mikethebike72 |
Interesting update. I was going to take off airbox today and check for leak. Decided to take for quick test ride, just to see if any Buell Elves came and repaired it in my sleep. Starts fine, like always, let it warm up some as I pushed it through 3 point turn to head up drive way. Idling fine. Put in gear, pulled fine up driveway. Took off down my residential street, running fine. Engine temp is still showing as cold so I don't get on throttle much, but bike is pulling like normal up past 3k. Get on gas a bit more, pulls fine up past 5k. Then had to slow to turn around. Engine is showing up to temp now as I shift into second then then engine falls on it face, won't make power above 3k again. So I am thinking a sensor. What sensor isn't used while engine is warming up, but is when at operating temp? Buell Elves, feel free to drop by. | ||
| 1125rcya |
Man, I would go ahead and remove your upper fairing, headlights...take your ignition switch out, open it up and look for bad solder on one of your wires. While your there if thats not your problem, there is some wires that run through your fairing stay, see if they are being cut. I'm guessing at 30,000 miles your bike is far from stock. HID? Race ecm? Bike ever been down? Good luck. | ||
| Mikethebike72 |
Bone stock. Never been dropped. Knock on wood. I repaired a break in the ignition pigtail a few thousand miles ago. I have double checked it the repair and it seems to be holding. I checked the solder joints on the contact plate in the switch and they appear good. Another interesting piece of the puzzle, when started having problems, my front AFV was around 98 and rear 100. After some idling time and a few short test drives, my front AFV is 85 and rear still 100. Clogged injector? | ||
| 1125rcya |
Where was the break in the ignition pigtail? How did that happen? | ||
| Froggy |
It sounds like the issue is only occurring when the bike is in closed loop mode. Possibly the front O2 sensor? | ||
| 1125rcya |
Have you tried the simple automatic spark plug clean. Roll on throttle to full throttle, while holding full throttle, turn on the ignition, wait 3 seconds, release throttle grip and then turn off the ignition! | ||
| Chameleon |
When was the last time you checked or changed the spark plugs? I had trouble with my front plug fouling up / corroding due to water intrusion past the grease and into the plug tube. It manifested a similar issue where it was falling on its face beyond a certain RPM...  This was at 8,482 miles according to my records. I was riding in Seattle, regardless of the weather... 125 mph in the pouring rain can be quite exhilarating. (Message edited by Chameleon on July 24, 2014) | ||
| Mikethebike72 |
1125rcya, a wire broke in the pigtail where it enters the fairing stay from the years of flexing. I have tried the sparkplug cleaning trick. No luck. Froggy, I am starting to think O2 sensor also. Anyone know of O2 sensor I can get at local auto parts store? Chameleon, I do need to check and change the plugs as I do ride in the rain, just not as much as I used to when I lived in Bellingham.  What is the easiest way to get that front plug out? | ||
| Froggy |
Bosh 12014, they are $13 with free 2 day shipping on Amazon if you have a prime account: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-12014-Oxygen-Sensor-Fi tment/dp/B0009IK7YC/ Advance Autoparts has it for $19. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-premium-o xygen-sensor-12014/3486109-P | ||
| Chameleon |
1125rcya & Mikethebike72: I had the same ignition wire failure. I rode to work in the morning and parked the bike, but when I went to ride home, it wouldn't start at all. Had the shop come pick it up and they told me the ignition wiring broke. Apparently it's inevitable due to the design. Mikethebike72: It's been several years, but I believe I used a short ratchet with two U-joint extensions and the spark plug socket. A flex ratchet and flexible socket extension might work as well. | ||
| Mikethebike72 |
Bought the O2 sensor at AutoZone. Decided to do one more test. I disconnected both O2 sensors and went for a ride. Once again, bike ran fine during the warmup but shortly after the display showed a temp it went back to cutting out above 3k. I don't think it is the O2 sensors. So that leaves spark plug, coil stick, or injector. I am leaning more toward spark plug or coil stick. Anyone have links to the spark plug socket that you use to get the front plug out without rotating engine? | ||
| Shawns |
I just used a universal and the spark plug socket with i think a 4 inch extension | ||
| Stirz007 |
The trick is wiggling out the stick coil. After that, the plug is relatively easy. I just used 5/8" deep socket with extension (no u-joint), until plug was loose, then a magnet-on-a-stick. A short (6" or so) length of tubing was handy to reinstall plug by hand, so I didn't have to worry about cross-threading. The tighten with socket and reinstall stick coil. | ||
| Firemanjim |
AFV of 85 means that engine is seeing over rich condition and pulling 15 percent fuel, not sure what will do this on 1125 butxb meant bad head temp sensor. So you have one cylinder running pretty lean especially when warmed up. |
