|Posted on Tuesday, June 20, 2017 - 10:43 pm: ||
Hello Forum members,
I've got a new to me 1125R that hasn't run in a few years and I want to check the oil system is good to go. My previous 1125R seized after a routine oil change, hence the desire to check it.
I have Motul 7100 in the engine from the previous owner at an acceptable level. What else can I check?
(Message edited by Buellster17 on June 21, 2017)
|Posted on Wednesday, June 21, 2017 - 04:33 pm: ||
First, welcome to BadWeb. This is a great forum for all things Buell and EBR.
If you have been lurking, you know you can use the GoogleBadWeb link at the top of this page. There is also the Knowledge Vault which contains a lot of archived info for every system on your bike.
I would drain both holes, that is, both the left and right drain plugs. You will need, per the service manual, to replace both washers under the drain plugs. The aluminum washer is Part# Q0092.1AM and the copper washer is Part# Q0091.1AM. You'll need an oil filter (Part# Q1064.1AM) too. There is also an oil screen that picks up debris from the factory build. If you check that, don't be alarmed at "chunks" you may see on the oil screen. Take a magnet to anything you see there to verify it is ferrous.
Don't neglect your coolant.
Make sure you turn your kill switch to off when the bike is sitting. 2008 1125r's have a parasitic drain on the battery from the alarm system and, over time, will kill your battery.
If you do not own a service manual and electrical manual, get them. A good brand of battery tender is Deltron, or the equiv. from your HD dealer.
Nice looking bike you have. Stay cool down there!
|Posted on Wednesday, June 21, 2017 - 10:18 pm: ||
Thank you! I've spent hours looking for those part numbers in the past!
I'll check my oil screen and filter. Is there any way I can check if the oil system is primed and ready to flow oil before running it?
Cheers for the help
|Posted on Thursday, June 22, 2017 - 12:29 am: ||
About the only way to prime a modern motorcycle would be to remove the stator cover and rotate the crank many times without the spark plugs. On our bikes, removing the spark plugs is nearly impossible without potential damage to your coil or coil boots.
In the old days, one would just turn over the engine with the kick starter. Easy peasy.
The upside, if there is one, of using fuel, spark, and air to "prime" the oil system is probably hardest on the battery. Little wear will occur if the pistons are not stuck. If the engine wasn't opened up and stored that way, you should be good to go.
When you drain the oil, replace the oil filter, and drain the oil screen, that will remove most of the crud sitting in the engine. I'd do this and then have an abbreviated oil change interval, maybe a couple of hundred miles, then do another oil change while hot. Cheap insurance!
|Posted on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 02:09 pm: ||
I'm curious about the seizure of your previous 1125R.
Who changed the oil?
What oil was put in it?
How much oil was put in it?
How long did it run before it seized?
|Posted on Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 05:15 pm: ||
I changed it from Mobil V Twin oil to AMSOil. I put about 2.6 quarts in there, it ran for a total of 5 minutes with an awful mechanical clatter