| Author | Message | ||
     Elvinjones |
Hey all, I have an 09 Buell Ulysses with 23.5k miles. While riding on the freeway today, over the course of 30 seconds or so I lost 5th, and then 4th gear. I can shift into both, but it acts like I'm fully engaged on the clutch even at low rpms. Not sure where to start really. Don't have time or $ to pay to rebuild the tranny right now (especially at California prices). But I can try a few more basic things if it's warranted. Hoping I don't have to park this for a long time...also lmk if anyone knows of Buell Mechanix in norcal Thanks! | ||
| Elvinjones |
oh and also, the past few days I've been hearing some kind of new sound from the engine seemingly related to wheel speed, especially noticeable as I'm slowing down. Kind of like a medium pitch whining/groaning. Unrelated? (Message edited by elvinjones on August 04, 2022) (Message edited by elvinjones on August 04, 2022) | ||
| Pushr0d |
Not enough information for a good diagnosis, but I'd guess your clutch is slipping. Check your primary oil level, and also check the free play in the clutch cable at the grip. The proper level is to the bottom of the diaphragm spring with the bike upright. The gap between the cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket should be 0.140-0.180 in. (3.6-4.6 mm). While you're at it, check the primary chain tension. (Not related to your problem.) From the Manual: Measure primary chain tension through the inspection cover opening. Adjust primary chains not meeting vertical free play specifications. 1. Remove two fasteners with captive washers and primary chain inspection cover with gasket from primary cover. 2. Check primary chain tension by measuring vertical free play. a. Measure vertical free play through chain inspection cover opening. b. Rotate engine to move primary chain to a different position on sprockets. c. Measure vertical free play several times, each time with primary chain moved so that the measurement is taken with sprockets rotated to the tightest chain position. ENGINE TEMPERATURE /FREE PLAY Cold -3/8-1/2 in. 9.5-12.7 mm Operating temp -1/4-3/8 in. 6.4-9.5 mm | ||
| Hughlysses |
^ Good advice. The main trick on the primary chain adjustment is to measure the slack correctly. Push the chain down, then push it up. Measure the full distance from down to up to make your adjustment. | ||
| Elvinjones |
Great thank you, I will start there and report back. To me I didn't suspect the clutch because gears 1, 2, and 3 work fine. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If the noise changes with wheel speed, you could also have an output shaft bearing issue (behind the front belt pulley). | ||
| Elvinjones |
I only have one nut on the pulley that tension the belt to the wheel. Been that way for 100 miles. Could that cause an issue? | ||
| Tpehak |
If pulley would be an issue you would have problems at any gear. My bet is the clutch plates are worn. I had Barnett clutch plates and they becomed worn after 4000 miles. (Message edited by TPEHAK on August 05, 2022) | ||
| Nillaice |
i put in an energy one clutch 'extra plate kit' and a lighter diaphragm spring a few years ago. wonderfully predictable and gradual engagement even without the judder spring/plate. ... especially when compared to the clutch that i had just roasted trying to off-road a street bike | ||
| Elvinjones |
OK guys... I'm hearing the clutch plates thing. I hope to he'll that's it...but it doesn't make sense to me. ...could 1st, 2nd, 3rd work fine and 4th/5th act like neutral be a clutch problem? really? | ||
| Johndoe |
4th/5th are both activated by one single gear with "dogs" on either side. This same gear also meshes with (and drives, if first is selected) first gear on the counter shaft. If first works, the gear and its splines on the input shaft are good. It is unlikely that the "dogs" on both sides of the gear would fail simultaneously.. Could have a problem with the selector fork or the guide pin on the fork where it fits into the shift drum.. When not driving 4th/5th, the gear is in the "neutral" position. (Message edited by JohnDoe on August 05, 2022) | ||
| Elvinjones |
OK JohnDoe so how would I go about checking that? Can I look this up in the manual? Can I access it by removing any of the access covers? Thanks | ||
| Elvinjones |
Also, could this failure indicate another root cause problem...ie failing oil pump etc? | ||
| Griffmeister |
Like Pushr0d said, you could be taking into account a number of unrelated symptoms, or just normal stuff you never noticed before. Best to take it in steps and try to narrow down the important symptoms. Like everyone else said, do a complete primary service. I would change the oil so that you can check for excess debris or water contamination and refill with correct oil to proper level. Then a full clutch and chain adjustment. Then you can ride and see if anything changed paying more attention to engine response, noises and engagement in every gear. As a side note, you can do a quick check in your driveway without moving, this is how I narrowed down a problem with third gear in my tranny. Just engage each gear one at a time, hold the brake and ease out the clutch to drag the engine down and compare the results. In my case, third gear would start “skipping” but the others were fine. In your case you may notice some slipping in the lower gears cause it does sound like that’s what you’re describing. In normal driving, mechanical advantage means there is less clutch loading in lower gears than higher ones so fourth and fifth could be the first to react. Good luck. | ||
| Elvinjones |
you guys are f***ing awesome, thank you so much. it may take me a while but when I get to next steps I will update this thread. I guess my get away joyrides will be all 1125r for the time being...   | ||
| Johndoe |
"OK JohnDoe so how would I go about checking that?." The new noise mentioned is likely related to your problem. These components are inside the case. Alas, only experience/process of elimination are the way (other than tearing it down) to determine this. Drain the gearbox oil and inspect both the oil and the magnetic end on the drain plug. A large amount of debris is a giveaway. Their also could be a problem with the shift drum pins in the end where the "ratchet/prawl" that are activated by the shift lever that turns it. Here observation is your friend. An astute rider would likely "feel" a tangible difference when moving the shift lever from third to 4th/5th before disassembling anything. The shift drum end and the ratchet (and clutch/chain/etc) can be inspected with the side cover off. Anything else means it's time to split the case.. I would agree with you that if 1/2/3 are _SOLID_ AND 4th/5th feel EXACTLY like neutral it would unlikely that the clutch/chain would be the problem. Good luck.. |
